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Personal Camera Profiles


ECohen

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What are you all using your User Profiles for?

 
Because I don't work professionally anymore I don't have the need to be as consistent as I once was.The 240  is so simple to set up I don't use my user profiles to the extent I should.
Before a shoot I set what I think I'll need tweaking along the way and sorting it out in LR or Photoshop later. 
 
How are the non working professionals on this forum using their 4 User Profiles?
 
I know this is a basic question and that everyone's needs are different ....but I'm curious what situations come up often, that you choose important enough to save a profile. And your personal preferences over and above the cameras default settings.
 
Thanks in advance for your opinions and advice......... all is welcome and appreciated
Edited by ECohen
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I keep changing my profile definitions. Before I had all my lens coded, I had profiles for most commonly used lens (with manually selected lens). Now I use only two profiles. Regular one with LV and video switched off and the other to switch them on.

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Guest JonathanP

One default one so that I can quickly reset the camera to my favourite, known, starting point. And 2 for a couple of older uncoded lenses (otherwise I forget to enable/disable manual corrections).

 

Because they can be renamed, I find them really useful - if they were stuck with just numbers I almost certainly would forget what I had assigned to each!

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I have two, Called OVF and EVF, used as Jonathan Perkins mentioned to reset the camera to a known state. I use the EVF profile with my 21mm lens, it has spot metering selected (I find classic metering is too average for very wide lenses); I also use the EV Finder with this lens.

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I just use mine to quickly set the auto-ISO parameters. I have:

 

1) Max ISO set to 800 speed 1/focal length

2) Max ISO set to 1600 speed 2/focal length

3) Max ISO set to 3200 speed 2/focal length

4) No auto ISO. ISO set to 200.

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Standard, long lens, wide lens and low light.

This approach works for me as my standard lens (Summarit 35mm) is my only coded one, & my others (CV21mm, Leica 90mm & Zeiss 50mm) are used respectively for wide, tele & low light.  But this works to provide any unique settings for them & most importantly to manually input the correct code each time I use them.  I couldn't really see much need for the profiles until this dawned on me.  So again, helpful but still not essential.

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I have one, which I call Basic, which is Classic metering, Live View off, video off, white frame lines, etc etc. I use that virtually all the time. I could call it my 262 preset!

 

I have a second, which is live view on, advanced metering, red frame lines (so I know, immediately!). I don't often use this preset, but it is useful to just switch it on on those rare occasions when I DO need it. I suppose I should call it my 240 preset... but it is REALLY nice to have.

 

Hardly ever use the second preset... but I have these two basic presets set up so I can detail modify either of them depending on the situation and then return to the base set up with one button push. It saves having to go through the menus to check (I normally miss something if I have to do it manually).

 

Two presets as a starting point, with different colour frame lines to differentiate them, which you never miss... they are staring you right in the eye when you next use the camera, which makes it really clear and easy, both to start with, and to return to, even for an idiot like me!  :p

 

Essentially, it means I have simple M262 for normal day to day use and an M240P for more flexibility, two cameras for the price of one. I just choose which one at the press of a button! My M240P has ALWAYS been set up like this. It was my 'prototype' M262... and I have had it 18 months now, long before the actual 262 was launched! :D

Edited by Bill Livingston
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I have one, which I call Basic, which is Classic metering, Live View off, video off, white frame lines, etc etc. I use that virtually all the time. I could call it my 262 preset!

 

I have a second, which is live view on, advanced metering, red frame lines (so I know, immediately!). I don't often use this preset, but it is useful to just switch it on on those rare occasions when I DO need it. I suppose I should call it my 240 preset... but it is REALLY nice to have.

 

Hardly ever use the second preset... but I have these two basic presets set up so I can detail modify either of them depending on the situation and then return to the base set up with one button push. It saves having to go through the menus to check (I normally miss something if I have to do it manually).

 

Two presets as a starting point, with different colour frame lines to differentiate them, which you never miss... they are staring you right in the eye when you next use the camera, which makes it really clear and easy, both to start with, and to return to, even for an idiot like me! :p

 

Essentially, it means I have simple M262 for normal day to day use and an M240P for more flexibility, two cameras for the price of one. I just choose which one at the press of a button! My M240P has ALWAYS been set up like this. It was my 'prototype' M262... and I have had it 18 months now, long before the actual 262 was launched! :D

+1

 

I have the same two presets. I add one more to it for tripod work. It has live view on and high ISO is set to 200. This way I am sure that I am getting the best pic quality on tripod.

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I use one for kind of standard setup for me with EV on the rear thumb wheel. I tend to carry the camera in my hand and so the EV doesn't bet bumped too often.

 

Another one is for those cases where I'm using the neck strap as a neck strap which tends to bump the EV dial causing the camera to meter way the heck off. In those cases, I use the front button to unlock the EV.

 

The 3rd mode is "Train" mode which is when I'm practicing exercises out of Work Your Leica M where I don't need RAW

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I use one for kind of standard setup for me with EV on the rear thumb wheel. I tend to carry the camera in my hand and so the EV doesn't bet bumped too often.

 

Another one is for those cases where I'm using the neck strap as a neck strap which tends to bump the EV dial causing the camera to meter way the heck off. In those cases, I use the front button to unlock the EV.

 

The 3rd mode is "Train" mode which is when I'm practicing exercises out of Work Your Leica M where I don't need RAW

I hate accidental EV compensation change. I am always in the mode where you have to press the front button to do EV change. In practice I hardly use the EV compensation. I simply point the camera to the view of appropriate brightness and half press the shutter to lock the shutter speed in A mode, reframe and shoot. It is quick.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Paul Ashley hasn't realized that on the full-frame camera (M9 and M240 - BUT NOT THE Q unfortunately), you can name your User Profiles. Mine are:

 

1.   FAST

2.   FINE

3.   MONO

4.   HDR

 

I find them very useful at the start of a shoot and after making changes in museums or the like. Restoring the camera to a safe group of setting prevents you shooting with the wrong custom WB for example.

 

Even on cameras without the naming option, I retain the above set which is easy to remember and reset.

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Paul Ashley hasn't realized that on the full-frame camera (M9 and M240 - BUT NOT THE Q unfortunately), you can name your User Profiles. Mine are:

 

1.   FAST

2.   FINE

3.   MONO

4.   HDR

 

I find them very useful at the start of a shoot and after making changes in museums or the like. Restoring the camera to a safe group of setting prevents you shooting with the wrong custom WB for example.

 

Even on cameras without the naming option, I retain the above set which is easy to remember and reset.

Ah, but I'd forget what the settings were for each....

(And WB is always set on Auto, because I only shoot raw and adjust it later if it looks wrong).

Edited by LocalHero1953
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On the M-P, my user profiles are all set the same except for details of the lens code and which ISO set up I want for a given lens. 

 

1- Nokton 50

2- M-Rokkor 90

3- Hektor 135

4- Automatic (for lenses with lens codes)

 

(On the SL, I have three user profiles set up - one for R lenses generally, one for SL lenses, and one for Hasselblad SWC emulation.) 

 

IN all cases, the user profile nets a consistent starting point, as others have suggested.

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