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CineStill 120!!


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Good of you to share this, Steve.  I just yesterday bought into this and am hoping for a successful run this time.  I am in touch with the Wright Brothers and have some insights into their current process and its seems inevitable that the 120 formats of both the 800T and 50D will be launched.  And the initiative that you have linked to will get access to the film at a considerable discount to what it will cost when it hits the shelves.  I have been troubled by the lack of financial support from the photography community in connection with the failed Kickstarter campaign, particualrly since the 800T is really the only one of its kind on the market today and is a great film.

 

I would encourage everyone who has a use for this film to participate and show their support and confidence. 

 

Best,

Adam

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Another day goes by, yet another new film on the market, and now a Kickstarter film project for CineStill 120, the one everybody has been waiting for!

 

http://igg.me/p/cinestill-120-medium-format-film/x/13323784

 

 

Have fun with that AlanG.

 

 

 

Steve

I can't resist your invitation. It is great that a company has found hopefully a profitable way to service what must be a niche of a niche of a niche market... medium format users who want to shoot higher ISO color neg tungsten film that has no anti-halation backing.  I would assume, perhaps incorrectly, that most MF shooters are looking for "quality" and primarily want to use lower ISO film.  But I'll be happy to be proven wrong and maybe there are more than enough shooters who can support this.  I welcome anyone to take a risk to try to provide for any market even though I may have doubts about long term viability for this product once the initial enthusiasm wears off.  Presumably the Kickstarter money helps demonstrate a market and covers some risk.

 

It would be easy for Kodak to offer this directly once a large enough market is established.

Edited by AlanG
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Just my 2 cents...And don't want to rain on the parade, but what I have seen of Cinestill results in general are quite unattractive, unless 

you are into special effects....(Reminds me vaguely of Rollei Crossbird?)

 

Good that it is there for those who like it, but I for one will never be using it.

Still praying that Ferrania will be able to deliver some good quality color film stock...

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The simple fact that many are forgetting is that the Cinestill 800T is really the only game in town.  No other film will be as finely balanced in tungsten lighting conditions.  So that means that whether you are on the street corner at night, in a dimly lit pub or otherwise indoors, the Cinestill 800T is going to be head and shoulders above the rest of the film stocks that are available on the market.  I happen to think it is great film and renders very nicely.  You either love or hate the red halos.  I can see how they can come across as unprofessional.  And if another film producer could match Cinestill's color rendition w/o the red halos, I would be all for it.  But there aint nothing right now...so we have to support what there is.

Here are some examples of the Cinestill from Times Square, the mecca of tungsten and fluorescent lighting...

 

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Edited by A miller
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Thanks for posting those, great work, great location. 

As the red halos are due to the removal of the anti-halation backing the only way you are going to stop them is by either Fuji or Kodak, the only two games left in colour movie town, coating the film with a different layer than remjet. Given the reformulation and testing required and the size of their master rolls I see that chance as vanishingly small.

What would be interesting given your location would be to shoot a daylight balance C41 alongside and compare. That the Cine Still can remain a neutral balance in daylight, given processing filtration to correct and yes I have done that, I wonder how well filtration would work in reverse. If you had a lab that cared they could balance the daylight film against a colour checker you shot under the tungsten conditions.

The skin tones are spot on, you have a good lab, and eye of course !!

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Thanks for posting those, great work, great location. 

As the red halos are due to the removal of the anti-halation backing the only way you are going to stop them is by either Fuji or Kodak, the only two games left in colour movie town, coating the film with a different layer than remjet. Given the reformulation and testing required and the size of their master rolls I see that chance as vanishingly small.

What would be interesting given your location would be to shoot a daylight balance C41 alongside and compare. That the Cine Still can remain a neutral balance in daylight, given processing filtration to correct and yes I have done that, I wonder how well filtration would work in reverse. If you had a lab that cared they could balance the daylight film against a colour checker you shot under the tungsten conditions.

The skin tones are spot on, you have a good lab, and eye of course !!

 

Thanks, Chris.  Are you suggesting that I shoot Time Square at night with, say, Portra 400 or 800 and use a cooling lens filter, similar to how we use an 85B warming filter for the Cinestill 800T during the day?

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Thanks, Chris.  Are you suggesting that I shoot Time Square at night with, say, Portra 400 or 800 and use a cooling lens filter, similar to how we use an 85B warming filter for the Cinestill 800T during the day?

 

Not exactly, shoot say Portra 800, but I find Fuji Pro 400H more tolerant of colour temperature,  straight no filter but on one shot at least include a colour checker/passport then ask the lab to balance the scanning filtration to the colour checker. 

I have shot the Cine still in daylight with no filter and obtained "pure" whites, its all down to the Lab. I suspect scanning allows more latitude in filtration than conventional colour printing filters.

Not saying the result will look as cinematic but "Tungsten" is certainly not the predominant illuminant in your shots and the filtration must reflect that just wondering how far scanning filtration can it be pushed with "daylight" film. These days it's all about "grading".

 

 

14369419060_f4632ebc9c.jpg

 

White in daylight no filter.

 

14555259762_6ae4884714.jpg

 

Daylight no filter

 

14358094640_11daf9e709.jpg

 

Mixed, including some halation 

 

This on an M2 BTW for OT posting !!

Edited by chris_livsey
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That's interesting, Chris.  Thanks for raising this.  I will ask my lab (LTI-Lightside, one of the best in NYC) and see whether there is a surcharge for the additional customization of the development.  They have a base price of $8 per roll for development and then add $2 just to cut it (which I don't do) and $2 to push a stop.  If I get a clear answer I shall report back...

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Developing will be standard C41 it's at the scanning stage the colour balance is established, as I say using a colour pattern as a standard, as you would with dig***l white balance against a grey card.

 

Ok, Chris.  Now I get you.  I do my own scanning and know what you mean.  I think that daylight film can certainly be re-balanced in the WB setting; the extent is limited and if I have the chance to use Cinestill I will always do so.  

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There is very little tungsten lighting these days... especially outside. A lot of lighting is high efficiency discharge... sodium vapor, mercury vapor and others. Indoors fluorescent and LED are common today.  So it is not clear to me if there is much advantage in using tungsten film over daylight film in these situations. You'll have to test them in various conditions to see if "correction" in scanning gives you the look you want.  Likewise, using a filter may be counter-productive. 

 

In the past, tungsten film was also made for long exposures e.g. NPL (long) vs. NPS (short) so avoiding reciprocity failure cross color curves was and exposure compensation was a factor besides color balance. Fuji also used to make a color neg film called Reala that worked well under mixed lighting due to an extra color layer.

Edited by AlanG
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There is very little tungsten lighting these days... especially outside. A lot of lighting is high efficiency discharge... sodium vapor, mercury vapor and others. Indoors fluorescent and LED are common today.  So it is not clear to me if there is much advantage in using tungsten film over daylight film in these situations. You'll have to test them in various conditions to see if "correction" in scanning gives you the look you want.  Likewise, using a filter may be counter-productive. 

 

In the past, tungsten film was also made for long exposures e.g. NPL (long) vs. NPS (short) so avoiding reciprocity failure cross color curves was and exposure compensation was a factor besides color balance. Fuji also used to make a color neg film called Reala that worked well under mixed lighting due to an extra color layer.

 

In NYC all the street lights are tungsten, so it is VERY useful here.  And the Cinestill performs like a champion in all types of artificial lighting; much better than any other C41 film or even your digital camera.  Ao you can try to pour cold water all you want but for a film only photographer it just doesn't resonate...

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In NYC all the street lights are tungsten, so it is VERY useful here.  And the Cinestill performs like a champion in all types of artificial lighting; much better than any other C41 film or even your digital camera.  Ao you can try to pour cold water all you want but for a film only photographer it just doesn't resonate...

FWIW NYC is installing "blue spectrum" streetlights - approx 4300 Kelvin -  in all five boroughs by 2017.  Many other cities are doing the same thing.

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FWIW NYC is installing "blue spectrum" streetlights - approx 4300 Kelvin -  in all five boroughs by 2017.  Many other cities are doing the same thing.

Then i look forward to my cinestill 800t outperforming your digital camera in the artificially lit streets of Manhattan for many years to come

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Then i look forward to my cinestill 800t outperforming your digital camera in the artificially lit streets of Manhattan for many years to come

I was not saying anything about digital cameras. You might want to use daylight color neg firm that has an anti-halation layer if you don't like the red halos.

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