rdnhhs Posted January 24, 2016 Share #1 Posted January 24, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi guys I need help or advises rather. Has anyone shoot M6 with CV Color Skopar 35mm F2.5 type 2 for concert shoot lately or before? I would want to use it but i worry that 2.5 would not be enough for the speed. Hope you guys could help me out. Thanks. *sorry for my bad english* heh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Hi rdnhhs, Take a look here Color Skopar 35mm F2.5 type II for concert photography. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Fotoklaus Posted January 24, 2016 Share #2 Posted January 24, 2016 Depends on the light conditions and which film (speed) is used... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdnhhs Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share #3 Posted January 24, 2016 Err... I would say those band concerts performing and i would be using 1600iso or maybe 800iso What would you recommend for this situation? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdnhhs Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share #4 Posted January 24, 2016 Any helps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted January 25, 2016 Share #5 Posted January 25, 2016 Use digital. Seriously, if you've never done concert photography before so haven't been able to practice getting your exposures right take along a digital camera as a meter. Unless you have a hand held spot meter your M6 will try to indicate metering for the shadows as well as the highlights, but if the lighting is normal concert lighting only the mid tones and highlights are important. This will help keep your shutter speed up. So take a digital photograph set to manual (so the camera isn't doing any artificial compensation) and use this as a rough guide to how much under exposure you can get away with. Take a few throw away shots at the beginning or end of a film (note which film), and cut this off and process it first. You can then make a judgement for your development regime for the other films. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdnhhs Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share #6 Posted January 25, 2016 Use digital. Seriously, if you've never done concert photography before so haven't been able to practice getting your exposures right take along a digital camera as a meter. Unless you have a hand held spot meter your M6 will try to indicate metering for the shadows as well as the highlights, but if the lighting is normal concert lighting only the mid tones and highlights are important. This will help keep your shutter speed up. So take a digital photograph set to manual (so the camera isn't doing any artificial compensation) and use this as a rough guide to how much under exposure you can get away with. Take a few throw away shots at the beginning or end of a film (note which film), and cut this off and process it first. You can then make a judgement for your development regime for the other films. Thanks 250swb I have done with concert photography before just that this is my first time with M6 and Skopar f2.5 type 2. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted January 26, 2016 Share #7 Posted January 26, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Well just do what you did before but remember the M6 meter is less accurate in situations like concerts than a typical late period SLR meter is. My Olympus OM4 Ti can do spot readings for example, but with a film M I'd take a spot meter. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblitz Posted January 27, 2016 Share #8 Posted January 27, 2016 1600 iso 1/125 f/2.8 should work just fine ......... some color films react to reds more/less than others. ..... could make it difficult for WB adjustment in pp (Assuming here you scan, etc) to deliver something like what you saw ..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aoresteen Posted January 28, 2016 Share #9 Posted January 28, 2016 I have the lens and would never use it for a concert. It's too slow and too wide (unless you are on stage near one of the players). You need f/1.4 or f/2 at the least. Do you have a 90mm f/2 lens? Concert lighting is usually bad to very bad and contrasty. The point about the spot meter is well taken. I use a Sekonic L508 that has a spot meter function in it. Personally I'd take a digital camera as well to make sure I was getting decent shots. I have a 60mm f/1.4 Sigma that I use with my Olympus E-5 DSLR. That would be like a 120mm f/1.4 on a Leica M. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobbu2 Posted January 29, 2016 Share #10 Posted January 29, 2016 I just bought one of these lenses this morning from Cameraquest. Can't wait for it to get here, I've seen a lot of great results from it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted January 29, 2016 Share #11 Posted January 29, 2016 Ive got the 35 color scopar but not used it for bands but this was taken 3 years ago with the 40F1.4 Nokton at 1/60 F2.8 iso1600 HP5 and developed in Ilfotec, one of my favourite photographers (Jane Bown) said when she shot someone in their home with window light she would use Tri X at iso400 1/60 F2.8 and it always worked So when i took this shot i had left my light meter in another bag (ive now got one in every bag) so i uped the iso and tried the F2.8 1/60 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblitz Posted January 29, 2016 Share #12 Posted January 29, 2016 Ive got the 35 color scopar but not used it for bands but this was taken 3 years ago with the 40F1.4 Nokton at 1/60 F2.8 iso1600 HP5 and developed in Ilfotec, one of my favourite photographers (Jane Bown) said when she shot someone in their home with window light she would use Tri X at iso400 1/60 F2.8 and it always worked So when i took this shot i had left my light meter in another bag (ive now got one in every bag) so i uped the iso and tried the F2.8 1/60 Thanks .... been my experience as well. They have especially bright red spot at jazz club where I shoot and when it is on, i can do 1/250 f2 at iso800 to black out everyone other than the lead or 1/125 to get some shadow detail of the band members. Nice thing about using a meter and a meterless camera is that my ADD doesn't kick in watch the red dots bounce around in the viewfinder. I set and spend my time on focus and framing . . . . it's like a mental vacation :-) 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.