Buying a Barnack, what are your experiences and suggestions?

[leicameter]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I had some GAS and instead of buying a M9 I bought a Leica III from 1938 with a matching Elmar.

I got this camera from ebay, so I could not check it before.

The camera is looking good, but has some flaws.

The rangefinder is a litte dim, but works ok.

The slower shutter times are running a little unevenly, but the deviation seems to be acceptable.

On one edge of the film pressure plate there I can see some spots like rust.

The focusing is a little shuffling in one direction (I thing I could fix that). I tested the lens on a A7, and the pictures are looking good.

I think to be satisfied with that camera, it would need a CLA.

 

The cam with lense, case and boy was about 430 $.

I think a CLA (in germany) would be about 250$.

 

I could return that cam, because I bought it with return option from a dealer.

I would like to buy a Barnack, but I think if I want to buy a pre war Leica III, I will allways have simmilar problems? A cam with a CLA will be more expensive, I think.

 

What are your experiences and suggestions?

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited January 22, 2016 by leicameter

[david strachan]

I bought a IIIc (converted to IIIf) for about the same price several years ago, without the lens.  My main concern was good shutter cloths.  The speeds were about right after a test with film.

While I haven't had it CLA'd yet, I should.  It was built about 1951.

 

I think you got a good buy; the lens looks nice.

 

A CLA will make it run smoother and feel nicer with accurate speeds.  Well worth it.

 

But run a film quickly and process it to check speeds, lens and straight running along the film rails.

 

There are many experts on the Barnack camera here...I'm not really one of them.  But I'm sure they will all say a CLA is necessary.

 

cheers  Dave S

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[jc_braconi]

You have a star here, make it shinning *

*( CLA' ed)

[spydrxx]

I picked up a iif about 2 years ago in terrible cosmetic shape, but the shutter curtains were fine and all of the speeds except 1/1000 seemed within tolerance...pretty much confirmed when I checked my test roll of film. Everything worked smoothly, so I've forestalled the CLA for the present. I did a reskinning as most of the vulcanite had chipped off.It looks, sounds, feels and works so nicely so maybe a CLA later this year. In themeantime I'm thoroughly enjoying using it.

[TomB_tx]

I've collected a number of Barnack models over the years, and agree the III is charming. A good CLA is nearly always an improvement, so I factor in that expected cost when looking at old Leicas. The last one I sent to Youxin Ye (US) also had a dim RF, so while working on it he replaced the beam splitter with a new multi-coated one. I'm amazed - it is now the brightest and easiest to focus of all my Barnacks.

[lleo]

Hallo Leicameter und wilkommen. The one I have in my avatar is my main camera and I wouldn't trade with anything else. Though is in parfect conditions, or so, and I didn't have to let it have any cla.

Even though the following M series, I think this one is more charming, is smaller and, last but not least, is the one that started all. You can really keep it inside a pocket while with the M is a little more difficult

[leicameter]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I'm thinking of buying a other copy of a Leica III, that hopfully does not need a CLA.

For excample this one:

http://www.leicashop.com/vintage_de/leica/leica-screw-mount-cameras/iii-mod-f-chrome/leica-iii-mod-f-chrome-sku26837-2.html

[Dr. No]

if you buy a barnack, you always have to consider a CLA. trouble starting with slow speeds, than fastones ...

but after the CLS you'll have a really nice camera - like new

 

the $250 could be a bit to less ...

 

OLAF

[Dr. No]

I'm thinking of buying a other copy of a Leica III, that hopfully does not need a CLA.

 

you'll never know ...

[leicameter]

Yes I think 250 is on the lower end. Maybe I have to add taxes ;-)

 

I'm a little afraid about the little rust on the pressure plate.

The curtains are looking very good, like new.

 

I think I will have to contact the seller.

 

There was a light meter, that contains to the auction. This one is not working.

Edited January 23, 2016 by leicameter

[willeica]

Old light meters from that era will rarely work. As for the camera, it looks well on the outside, but a roll of film put through it will tell the truth about how the inside is working. The 'rust' on the pressure plate may or may not make a difference. It is impossible to judge without seeing it.

 

William

[leicameter]

The light meter was sold as working. There is a mechanical problem.

[leicameter]

Here is a picture where you can see the rust on te pressure plate.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

I checked the 1 sec via a video. I'ts 1.15sec :-)

[jc_braconi]

the pressure plate is easily removable letting the curtains open with the low speed set on T

next pressing and in same time sliding it down and outside

and so you clean it with some "magic cloth" used for silvered objects.

[earleygallery]

Looks like a nice llla and the lens seems to be in good condition also - as others have said run a film through it and see if the images come out OK - that will tell you if the shutter is running to acceptable speeds, if the curtains are light tight etc. 

 

If you buy from a dealer who offers a warranty you have come back in the event of a problem but it doesn't mean that a dealer camera has been serviced. 

 

The rangefinders in these cameras aren't as 'crisp' as on an M but very dim finders may be due to the mirror inside corroding. More likely it's just dust/haze which a CLA will remedy. Also try cleaning the finder windows front and back with a moist lens tissue, that can help too. 

 

You don't need to send your camera to Germany for service, you have good people in the USA who can do the work. 

 

If that Elmar is as clean (optically) as it looks I would hang onto your purchase. 

[leicameter]

I'ts a III.

I will run a film through the cam to check it.

I'm from germany, but I would not send that cam to the Leica CS, because They will send me back a like new cam, at the price of a new cam ;-) I think I would choose http://www.kamera-service.info/index.php/de/

 

The lense seems to be a good performer.

On a A7 I compare it to a Summicron 50. At 3.5 there is a big difference, but at 5.6 the gap becomes much smaller. At 5.6 the main difference is on contrast.

 

This one is open on a A7 at iso 4000

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[leicameter]

Here is the comparsion at 5.6.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Elmar

 

 

Summicron

[jc_braconi]

They have, both,  their better rendering in between 5.6 and 8 except if the Summicron is a DR which has its in between 4 and 5.6 IMHE

[leicameter]

The summicron is from 1990.

 

The Elmar from 1938. In two years it becomes 80! Stunning performance...

Edited January 24, 2016 by leicameter

[Advertisement]

Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[earleygallery]

Sorry, you mentioned $ prices so I assumed you were in the US. 

 

The little Elmar is an amazing lens, so much from so little!