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Is there a Secret to Unlock the Magic of the X1?


leicadude

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Hi Folks. This may be a crazy question but is there a secret to make the X1 produce more "keepers"? I've owned a DLux-5 and an X1 for about 5 years and consistently find that my DLux-5 shots produce more keepers for in-focus and capturing the moment at the right time. The X1 is out of focus more often and not catching the moment I intended. That said, the X1 has produced some absolutely stunning shots at times which makes me want to hang on to it and learn how to use it more effectively!

 

Any tips or tricks? I really want this camera to work because I love the experience of using it. It's a beautiful camera.

 

Thanks,

Rudy

 

 

 

 

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The X1 is a fine camera, lots of keepers as far as I'm concerned.. Have you carried out test shots? I use an external VF which helps with framing etc.. Check your AF settings.. Maybe do a Reset and start again.. Is there a specific type of shot that is giving grief?

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I haven't used mine for a while, it now competes with an X-Vario, and a T, but used it extensively a couple of years back through Europe. Stunning results, no two ways about it. I used in in "tourist mode", with the LCD, and thought I'd hate this. I did for a very short time, but as most will attest, wearing glasses it's difficult using a V/F, so the LCD is actually simpler. I have the 36mm optical finder for it, bought this recently, but haven't really used it.

 

What firmware version? Not that there has been heaps of updates, but it might be something to consider. Also, what A/F method? I find the single point is the best for me, smaller the better. YMMV though.

 

Keep trying, it IS a great camera.

Gary

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The X1 is a fine camera, lots of keepers as far as I'm concerned.. Have you carried out test shots? I use an external VF which helps with framing etc.. Check your AF settings.. Maybe do a Reset and start again.. Is there a specific type of shot that is giving grief?

 

Thank you for the reply. I don't have the viewfinder. Maybe that would be a good investment. I like capturing moments and people. Looking back I found that my best shot have little movement and plenty of light. The lower lighting tends to yield more out of focus shots even with shutter speeds that should be adequate. 

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I haven't used mine for a while, it now competes with an X-Vario, and a T, but used it extensively a couple of years back through Europe. Stunning results, no two ways about it. I used in in "tourist mode", with the LCD, and thought I'd hate this. I did for a very short time, but as most will attest, wearing glasses it's difficult using a V/F, so the LCD is actually simpler. I have the 36mm optical finder for it, bought this recently, but haven't really used it.

 

What firmware version? Not that there has been heaps of updates, but it might be something to consider. Also, what A/F method? I find the single point is the best for me, smaller the better. YMMV though.

 

Keep trying, it IS a great camera.

Gary

Thanks Gary. I have the latest firmware 2.0 and use the 1PointH focus. I also found that shooting JPG looks better than RAW, probably because I don't find it easy to process the RAW images in Lightroom.

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In low light an OVF definitely helps to stabilize how you hold the camera.. I sold my D-Lux for the very reason of not being able to use an OVF.. Maybe up your ISO or use EV in lower light situations..I cannot remember all the AF settings, try Single Shot - Continuous Focus - use the smallest AF []... Try a few shots using hyper focal and crop to the subject, is it camera shake or AF itself giving grief? - are you using the AF assist light? - L

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Rudy,

I have a X1 and a X Vario, both competing for my attention. I use the X1 as a light travel camera, but also for street photos.

I have firmware 1.2 and sometimes use an optical viewfinder.

For fast, always in sharp focus photography I use manual focus, with focus lock (look at the user manual for firmware 1.2), set the aperture to f11, ISO to 400 to 800 depending on the amount of light, and set the focus distance using the green bar on the focusing scale to have everything in focus from about 1.5 meters to infinity. Hyperlocal distance technique, as old as photography itself.

There I'm always ready for sharp photos, ideal for street and landscape pictures.

My default setting is JPEG B&W high contrast plus DNG for RAW processing in colour using Lightroom. If you learn to process DNG you will find it has much more image quality than JPG.

I hope this can be of help to you.

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Rudy, focusing errors seem to be your main problem. Here are some suggestions.

 

Decide your most wanted point of maximum sharpness. Press Delete/Focus button and select 1 Point H. That enables you to place the focus point exactly on your chosen point of sharpness. Gently press the shutter release without shaking the camera.

 

Aim to use a shutter speed of at least 1/125th, faster when possible or desired.

 

If you still have a problem choosing the decisive moment, try setting C and shoot a short burst of 3 shots. Often the second shot is the sharpest.

 

For low light,in the menu set Image Stabilisation ON. Note it is limited to shutter speeds of 1/30th or longer. I use slower shutter speeds when needed. Also use AUTO ISO if appropriate.

 

Store your chosen basic settings as a USER PROFILE. USE THAT AS A BASE SETTING FOR EVERY SHOOT. Don'T be afraid to make further changes if needed.

 

Most important, PRACTISE whenever you have a spare moment, even on the least promising subjects.

 

The X1 wins because it is simple and uncomplicated, combined with superb imaging potential.

 

Perseverance will be rewarded.

 

Good luck!

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These are all excellent suggestions. I appreciate the feedback and gives me confidence to stay on it. Using the camera more often will be the key to practice. I was looking back at a trip to London three years ago and found that there were actually many very excellent, sharp exposures with only occasional out of focus. The potential is there. It's time to get in the "zone", get serious again and try some of the ideas presented here. Thanks!

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The ultra expensive OVF was a great investment.. 

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Very difficult other than with general work, the monitor is not easy to use for very specific focusing. 

The X1 doesnt have a thin DoF with APS-C and f/2,8. So except for close-up shots such as potraits its managable to focus by distance scale. For people and street the MF by distance works much better than AF for me. I just find a background, set the distance and waits until the model walks into the frame to my given distance. I never use the monitor for focus, except a few times with tripod.

 

For other general work where time isnt so critical the AF is usable.  Imo the AF is very good, but slow.

 

In fact one of the resons I stick with X1 and have given up all other compacts, mirrorless and m43s is the MF implementations. But thats me :-)

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Determining sharp focus in manual using the screen is almost impossible. But, pre-focusing using manual and depth of field  scale is very practical and useful. That is how I use it.

Edited by wda
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You don't need the EVF to make better photos....frankly it really slows down the X1 and 2

 
I shoot with the Dlux 6, X2 and an M ..... 3 very different cameras
 
The Dlux 6 is more of a pocket camera so it makes a lot of choices for you...easy ..very easy
 
You need to think of the X1 as more of a "manual" camera you have to take your time and think.
look at shutter speeds, look where its focusing /metering, think and check the ISO* and most important think about what your shooting and the result you want to achieve.
* Auto doesn't always do what you need sometimes  you need to physically change the ISO to get the speed you need for where your shooting
 
Also know that the X 1 and 2 are very slow to focus so this should be considered and think through a  "work around" when you can
 
They are two very different cameras.  If you don't want to think and know your not alone use the Dlux...its  a great camera with wonderful IQ
 
Also it should be said that the nature of digital photography...if not all, most shots, benefit from some post processing that holds true for the X1/2.......the Dlux being a point and shoot is very forgiving  
Hope this helps
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