gvaliquette Posted November 24, 2015 Share #21 Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) So you know ho thick it is? No, I don't actually know, just my idea of what I would like it to be ;-) Edited November 24, 2015 by gvaliquette Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 24, 2015 Posted November 24, 2015 Hi gvaliquette, Take a look here Having fun with 3D-printer. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Schrödinger's cat Posted November 24, 2015 Share #22 Posted November 24, 2015 So, here is v3 (skiping v2 since it turned out to have some flaws ) It's 33mm thick in total and each side is 16mm thick. I will see if it's possible to print it, it might be tricky. If you think you can make this thing work double ended and with a divider I would be interested in acquiring two of them. I would be happy to PayPal you the cost, but I bet you could increase sales significantly, if you even want to do so, by using eBay. I have the OpTech double version which is very heavy made, has the center divider, and has a rubber o ring for sealing. Problem is it's not but 28mm deep overall and it's 65mm in diameter as opposed to 52mm for the Leica version. It's just too big in diameter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay B Posted November 24, 2015 Share #23 Posted November 24, 2015 I'd also be interested in purchasing two of the double caps. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted November 25, 2015 Share #24 Posted November 25, 2015 Can't you just print an M-A? 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share #25 Posted November 25, 2015 It was possible to print (with a few tricks), however, the material is a little bit brittle, to at least the first 50 or so times it gets used small pieces are coming of. I think one needs to print it in ABS instead to get a better material. My machine is unfortunately not able to do this, but I'll try to find a supplier . From principle it works ok. I'll put this one on field test as well and we will see how it goes . 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share #26 Posted November 25, 2015 Can't you just print an M-A? In theory absolutely . Just a lot of CAD-work... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted November 25, 2015 Share #27 Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) Just a lot of CAD-work... ... maybe to be done with a better CAD tool, too (sorry... I make great part of my living selling Catia... a world full of FreeCAD users could be my nightmare... ) Apart jokes, a fine and just a bit more complicated work could be the back cap for lenses like the Super Angulon 21 and 1st Elmarit 28... And then... HOODS !! What's the minimun thickness you can achieve, with decent robustness and surface's smoothness ? Edited November 25, 2015 by luigi bertolotti 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share #28 Posted November 25, 2015 Hehe, you are absolutely right about CAD-tool, it's very limited compared to commercial stuff, but price/performance is really good with FreeCAD:). The printer can print down to 0.1mm in layer (Z-axis) thickness and but the XY resolution is only about 0.15mm. So minimum "wall thickness" with some sturdiness is about 0.4mm. More expensive printers have better resolution but the technology is currently limited to about 0.05mm in layer thickness and about 0.01mm in XY. Yes a Super-Angulon one is on the list:). I have the lens and the original cover so my idea was to make both a "replacement cap" (basically just a copy of the original) but also a true replacement for the plastic bayonet inside the metal hood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 26, 2015 Author Share #29 Posted November 26, 2015 It glows I appologize for the very poor picture, but I only had my shitty iPhone 4 around. But you can still see the glow Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 26, 2015 Author Share #30 Posted November 26, 2015 ... maybe to be done with a better CAD tool, too (sorry... I make great part of my living selling Catia... a world full of FreeCAD users could be my nightmare... ) Apart jokes, a fine and just a bit more complicated work could be the back cap for lenses like the Super Angulon 21 and 1st Elmarit 28... And then... HOODS !! What's the minimun thickness you can achieve, with decent robustness and surface's smoothness ? Maybe you can sponsor me with a FOC licens of Catia and I'll print that M-A for you :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted November 27, 2015 Share #31 Posted November 27, 2015 Maybe you can sponsor me with a FOC licens of Catia and I'll print that M-A for you :D Unlickily I can't operate outside my Country... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenton C Posted November 29, 2015 Share #32 Posted November 29, 2015 Instead of a double ended cap with a centre partition, would it be easier to modify the single cap so that they lock together? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted November 29, 2015 Share #33 Posted November 29, 2015 (edited) I've thought of painting back caps in fluorescent orange as this would mean that they would be more difficult to lose! A mix of fluorescent orange and luminous might be worth considering..... Another thought which might be worth pursuing is a back cap with an integrated hot shoe to hold viewfinder to wide-angle lens. I'd certainly find this useful. Edited November 29, 2015 by pgk 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #34 Posted November 30, 2015 I've thought of painting back caps in fluorescent orange as this would mean that they would be more difficult to lose! A mix of fluorescent orange and luminous might be worth considering..... Another thought which might be worth pursuing is a back cap with an integrated hot shoe to hold viewfinder to wide-angle lens. I'd certainly find this useful. Interstesting idea with the hot shoe, I'll draft something up . You mean on the outside then I guess? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #35 Posted November 30, 2015 Instead of a double ended cap with a centre partition, would it be easier to modify the single cap so that they lock together? From a printing perspective, yes, this was my first idea of a double cap, however as somebody pointed out, it must have a centre divider in order to work as a cap when only one lens is attached. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #36 Posted November 30, 2015 The weekend has been busy . Super-Angulon cap is now ready and printed very well (had to add some minor supports). The next step is to make a tru "spare part replacement" for the plastic bayonett inside the original cap. I also decided to draw up the front cap: Which also printed very nicely: I got the tip from a 3D-printer expert to try a different material (TPU) which is a little bit more flexible and has better temperature resistance than PLA which I currently use. All of them are "thermo plastics", just out different kind. One could of course also use ABS which is exactly the same material used by Leica and all other camera manufactures for this type of applications but ABS is quite tricky to use in a 3D-printer and is better used for injection molding. PLA is not good for injection molding but extremly good for 3D-printing and has similair mechanical properties as ABS. But I'll report back once the trial with TPU is finished . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #37 Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) And for those who are interested in acquiring my prints, it will come to that point also, I just need to feel secure enough that my design is solid enough and the material is good enough for this use, then everything will be available Edited November 30, 2015 by mmx_2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenton C Posted November 30, 2015 Share #38 Posted November 30, 2015 From a printing perspective, yes, this was my first idea of a double cap, however as somebody pointed out, it must have a centre divider in order to work as a cap when only one lens is attached. Sorry amigo, I wasnt very clear what I was visualizing.... I can just imagine the communication problems Id have if I had my own 3d printer. ;-) I was picturing single caps, but the top of it (the flat part on the outside) possibly some modification so it could thread or interlock with another cap. This way, you could use the cap as a single, or clip it to another cap for "stacking" 2 lenses together. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaques Posted December 1, 2015 Share #39 Posted December 1, 2015 Sorry amigo, I wasnt very clear what I was visualizing.... I can just imagine the communication problems Id have if I had my own 3d printer. ;-) I was picturing single caps, but the top of it (the flat part on the outside) possibly some modification so it could thread or interlock with another cap. This way, you could use the cap as a single, or clip it to another cap for "stacking" 2 lenses together. a sliding dovetail joint? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exodies Posted December 1, 2015 Share #40 Posted December 1, 2015 A hot shoe on one and a hot foot on the other 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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