friedeye Posted November 13, 2015 Share #1 Posted November 13, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've been shooting my little IIF since I've been 13 (over 50 years)… and sometimes I still screw up the loading. Yes, I trim the leader and am careful seating the film. But every once in awhile I find myself absolutely incapable of loading the camera in the field. And I truly love using the camera for street work. What the heck did HCB do? Does anyone have a fool proof trick? If not, I'm afraid my Ms will be the cameras of choice for street work. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 13, 2015 Posted November 13, 2015 Hi friedeye, Take a look here Arrrgh - Loading a Barnak Leica is a ******. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
TomB_tx Posted November 13, 2015 Share #2 Posted November 13, 2015 While I enjoy using my Barnaks (IIIf since the 1960s), I don't think I've ever changed film in the field - just ration out the roll for the day. However, for "street" use an M body is better on so many levels, especially since I wear glasses full time. I love the idea of the Barnak, but an M2 in the hand is worth two in the bush... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
friedeye Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted November 13, 2015 Thanks, Tom -- yes, of course, you're right. But I must say that my iiF with a funky Elmar 35 gets zero attention on the street. I'm amazed at how that combination is absolutely ignored (or tolerated). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted November 13, 2015 Share #4 Posted November 13, 2015 I use my IIIg quite often and recall becoming actually frustrated particularly in the winter when I was firing off a few rolls of film before work in below freezing temps. Changing film on one of these camera in below freezing temps is particularly hellish. But there are really no short cuts. And if you try it will only take longer. I just unscrew my lens all the way off, put it in my coat pocket, open the shutter using the T mode, fish the film in, wind a couple of times, screw the lens back on. One of the keys is to not worry about your lens and don't try to be too gentle with it; otherwise, you'll become even more frustrated. Once the film is in, with my 28mm summaron it is truly the worlds greatest compact point and shoot! Have made many a nice shot with it... 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted November 13, 2015 Share #5 Posted November 13, 2015 Some films just fall into place even without trimming the leader. One I've been using lately is CineStill 50, I was all set to take the lens off and suddenly realised the film was already seated in the camera. Others are usually a pain because a little bit of curl snags it up on the drive sprockets. I never bother with cutting the leader and like Adam in his post above just drop the lens in my bag/pocket, shutter on T, and poke my finger inside to push the film up. Steve 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted November 13, 2015 Share #6 Posted November 13, 2015 Can't say I've ever had a problem with my lllf - trim the leader, feed it into the take up spool and drop the canister and spool into the body. I make sure that the sprockets have lined up with the film correctly by winding on a frame or two then put the base plate on, wind another couple, try to remember to set the frame counter (!) and it's good to go. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedaes Posted November 13, 2015 Share #7 Posted November 13, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) There are some helpful videos on You Tube. I find the trick of putting a thin guide (credit card size) in first to help the film slide in place works well. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bateleur Posted November 13, 2015 Share #8 Posted November 13, 2015 Perhaps the most attention my Barnack's get is when I change film, especially when I run out and have to go into a camera shop (hoping they have stock of something I can use) then once having payed ask to borrow a pair of scissors and then proceed to trim the leader expressions range from bemused to shock ... 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 13, 2015 Share #9 Posted November 13, 2015 ... ... Practice, practice, practice - until one can even change the film in the dark. In the open field a small headlamp will still be very helpful. With unscrewed lens and shutter open, one can even threading films without the special cutting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
friedeye Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share #10 Posted November 13, 2015 Thanks, all. I think I'll just make a habit of removing the lens and pushing up the film before anything has a chance to strip the sprocket or foul. And, doing it that way, I believe, will eliminate the need to trim the leader -- something I've always been suspicious of, because it puts the advance strain on only one side of sprocket holes, making them so much more likely to tear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted November 13, 2015 Share #11 Posted November 13, 2015 I used to share your frustration when I started using LTM bodies after decades with their M cousins. And I tried all the tricks mentioned above and a few more. Finally I settled down to a good trim and some practice and haven't had a problem since. Changing film in the field, IMHO, with any camera is a chore best reserved for a stop at an espresso stand Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted November 14, 2015 Share #12 Posted November 14, 2015 Thanks, all. I think I'll just make a habit of removing the lens and pushing up the film before anything has a chance to strip the sprocket or foul. And, doing it that way, I believe, will eliminate the need to trim the leader -- something I've always been suspicious of, because it puts the advance strain on only one side of sprocket holes, making them so much more likely to tear. If you load like that you risk getting a chip of film in the camera/shutter. There is a good reason why you should trim the leader and load the film in the correct manner. The film is trimmed so that it doesn't have to be forced over the top sprockets when loading. All canisters of film used to have longer leaders up til sometime in the late 70's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSB Posted November 14, 2015 Share #13 Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) I also just load my III as intended i.e I trim the film leader to resemble the longer film leaders of the past. Haven't had any problem. However I remember once when I had to load a new roll of film in the field and I had forgot to pre-trim the leader of the extra rolls I carried with me. I didn't have any sharp object on me so as a last resort I used my hands and teeth to cut the film leader to the appropriate size, I would of course not recommend this but it did work. Edited November 14, 2015 by Markus B Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 14, 2015 Share #14 Posted November 14, 2015 I used to share your frustration when I started using LTM bodies after decades with their M cousins. And I tried all the tricks mentioned above and a few more. Finally I settled down to a good trim and some practice and haven't had a problem since. Changing film in the field, IMHO, with any camera is a chore best reserved for a stop at an espresso stand Perhaps tea calms better for a film exchange than nervous making espresso? Still more restless can make a film change at a climbing rope in a steep section of a mountain path, especially if the photogenic ibex is watching you curiously. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted November 14, 2015 Share #15 Posted November 14, 2015 The worst distraction whilst trying to load a new film into my IIIg whilst out on a town or country walk is an impatient wife drumming her fingers... 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 14, 2015 Share #16 Posted November 14, 2015 The worst distraction whilst trying to load a new film into my IIIg whilst out on a town or country walk is an impatient wife drumming her fingers... Maybe you should leave this job to her, especially if she has a lot of experience with needle and thread? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted November 15, 2015 Share #17 Posted November 15, 2015 Perhaps tea calms better for a film exchange than nervous making espresso? Still more restless can make a film change at a climbing rope in a steep section of a mountain path, especially if the photogenic ibex is watching you curiously. Perhaps the best reason to have a second body ready to go on a moment's notice Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted November 16, 2015 Share #18 Posted November 16, 2015 This is how I do it, using a card and without trimming the leader (on a II so it may differ from a IIF, I don't know). 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpjansen Posted December 13, 2015 Share #19 Posted December 13, 2015 (edited) It isn't very expensive to make or obtain a decent trimming template -- I have a 3D-printed one (refer to https://c1-udonix.blogspot.nl The actual loading of film is a matter of practice -- nothing wrong with sacrificing a € 3.99 roll of Agfa as sold in discount stores in NL and probably most other countries to this purpose. AFAiK the main issue is to ascertain that the film has actually been engaged by the sprockets, and this is usually confirmed by establishing that the rewind knob is turning and no dreadful sounds are heard when advancing the film. Pushing _down_ on both reels helps. In regard to Keith (M)'s wife "drumming her fingers": under circumstances where my spouse is involved I carry a Canon 5dIII with a clean CF card and a clean SD card plus the dual battery holder -- and then spend some considerable time in "post". I usually sneak in a Minox GT-E which gives me at least a week's grace period until the Ilford XP2 gets returned -- and no colour editor involved. cheers Jos Edited December 13, 2015 by jpjansen Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxspbr Posted February 5, 2016 Share #20 Posted February 5, 2016 At first it is difficult to load a Barnack. But with practice turns easy and quick. No more than a few seconds. Usually I walk with two extra rolls. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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