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First Leica - film questions


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Hello all,

 

I am new to the forum and new to the Leica world too. I just moved over to a MP from a Nikon FM2n- great camera but needed something a bit quieter and something that I could focus more quickly. Anyways, had a quick question about cleaning the viewfinder. A neighbor of mine came by to check out the camera, and put a nice thumb print on the glass. I tried using a micro fiber cloth but that just swirled the oils around. I read online that you can use rubbing alcohol? Anyone tried this?

 

Also, wanted to know if anyone had some thoughts on home developing. It is getting expensive and where I only shoot black and white I thought I might develop myself. Any thoughts on tanks and chemicals? Some people are really into the Patterson tanks and others hate them..any suggestions on where to buy metal tanks?

 

Thanks for taking the time to read, and answer.

 

Sincerely,

 

Peter

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Hi Peter,

 

Consider investing in the Jobo CPP3, which will allow you to produce precise, completely predictable results not only in black and white (N-development, or pushing and pulling by a stop or more).  Do C41 and E6, too.  Develop not just like a lab, but better than one:

 

http://www.jobo-usa.com/jobo-analog-products/jobo-cpp3-processor

 

Loading plastic reels is fine as long as you leave part of the leader sticking out of your used rolls, and then cut the leader to a smooth shape (no sharp edges) before you open the canister in darkness and load onto the reel.

 

CPP3 or not, when loading tanks I avoid my changing bag, which I blamed for scratches (too much going on in there, and too much stuff, including bits of metal and scissors) and use a dark basement instead.  Finally, buy a distiller, make your own distilled water and use it to ensure perfect drying of the negs.

 

Have fun,

Al

 

edit:  PS, use Zeiss wipes on your viewfinder.  Use a wipe - don't apply liquids directly to the camera.

Edited by M9reno
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Nothing wrong with Paterson tanks. Don't adopt prejudices before you even start with film processing, the whole point of film developing is to create datum points and work from knowledge alone. So if you come across somebody who can't do something as simple as thread film onto a Paterson reel shouldn't you perhaps ask yourself if they are role models or numbskulls?

 

 

 

Steve

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On cleaning, I sometimes use alcohol, but not on my Leica.  Pick up some lens cleaning solution just to be safe.  I get most of my supplies either from Freestyle or B&H.   eBay is also a great place to pick up used equipment. A few years ago I replaced my 40 year old enlarger with a much better one for practically nothing.  On the tanks, I use SS, they are almost 50 years old and still look like new.  Buy good stuff, learn to use it, and it will give you years of good service.  Freestyle website http://www.freestylephoto.biz

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​I've used Honeywell Nikor stainless tanks and reels since the 1960s. You can find them on eBay, but I imagine Paterson are similar. I recently switched to new Hewes stainless reels, and find them excellent. Once you get the feel for loading the reels (wind from the center out - don't feed into the spiral from the edge) it is easy even in a changing bag.

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If you wear eyeglasses, the microfibre cloth you got with your glasses is just fine to use with a very light mist spritz of alcohol, to clean the fingerprints, provided you haven't already used the cloth to clean gross dirt/dust, etc from your eyeglasses. I also have a fine microfibre cloth which I periodically use for similar purposes....just don't RUB the surface...lightly swipe it.

 

As far as developing goes, I have a fondness for two (very different from each other) tanks. I like the Paterson because it is easy to wind the film onto the reel, and I can use the same gear for 120 film by adjusting the reel itself. On the other extreme, I've used a Rondinax for over 50 years because I didn't need a dark place or bag to load my film, and it used much less solution than traditional reel based tanks...the downside IMHO was only that since it required constant agitation one needs to marginally adjust development times to avoid overly contrasty negatives.

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Hello Maine207,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

You might also look at the "Film Forum" in the Menu for the entire Forum.

 

There are generally a number of Threads there about developing & printing.

 

As well as people who read it who are willing to be helpful.

 

Don't forget to ask questions

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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I think "eyeglass cleaning solution" might be a little harsh on camera lens coatings.

 

 

You may be right, although it's used on plastic lenses that have coatings. Perhaps best to see what Leica recommends. I forget if my new lens came with any instructions on this point. I'll look later when I get home.

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Hello all,

 

I am new to the forum and new to the Leica world too. I just moved over to a MP from a Nikon FM2n- great camera but needed something a bit quieter and something that I could focus more quickly. Anyways, had a quick question about cleaning the viewfinder. A neighbor of mine came by to check out the camera, and put a nice thumb print on the glass. I tried using a micro fiber cloth but that just swirled the oils around. I read online that you can use rubbing alcohol? Anyone tried this?

 

Also, wanted to know if anyone had some thoughts on home developing. It is getting expensive and where I only shoot black and white I thought I might develop myself. Any thoughts on tanks and chemicals? Some people are really into the Patterson tanks and others hate them..any suggestions on where to buy metal tanks?

 

Thanks for taking the time to read, and answer.

 

Sincerely,

 

Peter

 

I'd use a moist lens tissue on the viewfinder window, to clean finger grease off. 

 

I actually find Patterson tanks more reliable than the steel type - I bought one some time ago and destroyed part of a film as it had not loaded correctly on the reel and stuck together during processing. The Patterson type can be tricky to load too - make sure the reel is completely dry and clean, and as suggested trim the leader edges. 

 

To start with just get the tank, chemicals, rinsing agent and a large changing bag (unless you have a light proof room you can use, and give it a go. There is a good starters guide on the Ilford website. My top tip is to use paper kitchen towel to dry off the negs when handing them up rather than tongs. Form a square of paper into 'tongs' and run it down the film in one steady movement applying just very light pressure. 

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Hi guys,

 

Thanks for all the replies.

I took m9reno's advice about the zeiss wipes and I ordered some from B&H to clean the viewfinder...

 

As far as the film tanks go, thank you for all the input..i'll definitely try out the Patterson tanks.

 

Thank you all again!

 

Peter

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Get some rolls of Tmax400 and a package of D76. Wonderful combination. Real 400 ASA with great sharpness and tonality.

I tried lots of developers, but I returned to the well known and tested D76, proved over decades.

No sudden death, no unwanted surprises. Use a sour fixing bath and rinse properly.

It is a lot of fun just going out and shoot and not to think about your film and chemistry as you know you can trust your stuff anytime.

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Hi guys,

 

Thanks for all the replies.

I took m9reno's advice about the zeiss wipes and I ordered some from B&H to clean the viewfinder...

 

As far as the film tanks go, thank you for all the input..i'll definitely try out the Patterson tanks.

 

Thank you all again!

 

Peter

+1 on the Zeiss wipes. They are great.

 

Just a tip from a noob here; if you get a paterson tank, invest in the "wide tabbed" reels that B&H sells. They go by a few different brands but Samigon is one of them.

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=122989&gclid=CP_4k9aJickCFRApaQodnm4Ggw&is=REG&m=Y&A=details&Q=

 

They are just like the paterson auto load reels but the tabs (think runway for a plane) are so freaking large that you'd have to be the most uncoordinated human on earth to not be able to thread the film onto them.

 

I've tried stainless steel reels, plastic paterson ones, and now these and they are the only ones that I can repeatedly successfully thread in a dark bag. You can leave the tail of the film out and "pre thread" the reels as others have said but I find that it screws up the first shot on the roll much of the time. It's not that big of a deal but it is something to think about.

 

I have  changing tent for a dark bag and I'd recommend that over just a regular dark bag, it's much easier. As the other poster said; having a really dark room is best (even if you have to use it at night to make sure it's light tight) 

 

I've even loaded reels under the covers in bed at night successfully. :)

Edited by rpavich
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Welcome and good luck,

First clean the fingermarks off as soon as possible!

Some folks have strong acids. that can mark delicate glass.

I think the viewfinder is pretty strong and resistant.

Use minimum wet.

A new micro cloth.

Developing film is fun.

Patterson or any plastic reel is OK.

I learnt to prefer Steel reels and steel tanks.

Get Nikor or similar good reels..

 

Coffee filters for all solutions!

I am totally thankful, to someone on LFI,

who warned about fixer and metal deposits, that caused white spots!

Filter before and after.

 

I keep tap/fawcett water in containers, ready for use.

Standing a few days makes the water less alkaline.

Done for Tropical fish..

 

Kodak film has "Shirley Temple" curls.

Use Ilford, Kentmere or Forma as they dry flat.

Flat need for scanning!

I use Kodak HC-110 developer.

Prefer Ilford Rapid Fixer. Less smell than Kodak.

 

Stay with one film for at least a year..

I'm using Kentmere 400, but Ilford HP5+ is better.

Go out and enjoy your camera!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I personally prefer steel tanks for for black and white processing. I use generic tanks with Hewes reels. I like the Hewes reels because they are so easy to load, the 35mm reels have little hooks that latch on to the sprockets and give a perfectly straight load every time. IN addition, the steel reels are easier to load when damp. I don't like patterson much because the little locking balls that grip onto the film can get jammed and really crinkle up the film.

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and put a nice thumb print on the glass. I tried using a micro fiber cloth but that just swirled the oils around. I read online that you can use rubbing alcohol? Anyone tried this?

 

 

 

Hi Peter,

 

Just spitt / lick or / breathe  on the viewfinder glas ( according to how dirty it is)  and clean it with a cotton handkerchief or old cotton towel. Works for me when the viewfinder glass has fingerprints. It's just glass ... ;)

 

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On cleaning cameras, I clean camera bodies with a roughly webbed, soft, thick micro fibre cloth which I use exclusively for cleaning camera bodies (DONT use the same cloth on lenses, which I only clean directly with lens wipes).

I do use the same cloth though on the two front windows of the Leica M (really sticky finger prints are easily cleaned by breathing on the window and wiping with the cloth).

 

The viewfinder ocular on the back I treat like lenses and do clean it with IPA (I have a very high concentrated IPA which I also use for lens cleaning, it is above 98% alcohol).

 

In regards of film development I swear by the JoBo system gear and use several sets of JoBo tanks (I always develop in batches of 6-8 rolls, so I run 4 identical tanks).

I rewind my film with the leader out and before loading the film into the tanks in a  changing bag I do cut the film straight and cut 0.5mm x 45º corners to the film.

 

I find the JoBo plastic reels to be absolutely easy to load as long as they are not brand new but have been washed a few times - for some reason brand new JoBo reels are sometimes a bit reluctant to load.

 

I am lucky with the local tap water, so no distilled water needed here. Check your water supply and maybe develop a few rolls first before distilling water or buying stock.

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