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Color processing


Wayne

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Encouraged by the fun and results of hand developing B&W film, I am ready to try my hand at color.....almost.

 

Most of the youtube videos on the color process emphasise the importance of temperature, but accomplish it in the kitchen sink through the process of throttling the hot and cold water coming out of the faucet. I am thinking I would rather do the whole thing through a more controlled process of heating and maintaining temperature though use of a hot-plate type piece of equipment. Does anyone out there use such equipment? Can you suggest a commonly available appliance that works well enough to maintain closer temperature control?

 

Thanks for any help/suggestions.

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Hi Wayne, C41 process needs a constant temperature (my choice 30°C) only for few minutes (5mn for rev)

with Paterson tank (my case)  but you must turn manually during this time. Process is very easy IMO and work

will be well done.

You can see some examples in the "I ilke film" in Other (Photo section)

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/page-316

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?p=2870875

If you need help , I will be at your disposal  :) 

I bought heat plate of Kaiser (german brand) with a water-filled tank in which I put the products in bottles

You do not need a lot of space but it must be near a "water point" as to develop b&w film

Best

Henry

some more  pictures in 38°C (I did before)

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/233570-i-love-my-m7/?p=2849170

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/233570-i-love-my-m7/?p=2848825

Edited by Doc Henry
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To much is made of temperature, there is enough leeway at 30C to simply use a plastic washing up bowl with a suitable fish tank heater to make a water bath for your chemical bottles and Paterson tank. And I've said it before and I'll say it again, the results do not fall off a cliff if you are a tiny bit out with timing or temperature especially if you are processing at 30C. I don't want to give the impression you can be inaccurate, but you really don't need to go to extremes to be very very close.

 

Steve

Edited by 250swb
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.... a picture is worth a thousand words :)

 

Heat plate Kaiser (lab photo equipment) and bath tank at 30°C

left Paterson tank and inside the bath tank Plastic bottles Rowi

 

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Leica M8 - 28 Summicron Asph

 

Less hot (30 ° C) allows to work with an aquarium resistance
and keeps longer products (although there is a limit to the number of developing rollers)

I uses approximately 10 to 15 rolls per 1 liter of Tetenal

Temperature tolerance limit  : +/- 0.5 ° C if you are exacting (during 5 mns)

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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and one picture for you

 

 

Kodak Portra 160

Recent dev at 30°C (5 mns) in Paterson tank

Leica M7- 90 MacroElmar

Macroadapter

 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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To much is made of temperature, there is enough leeway at 30C to simply use a plastic washing up bowl with a suitable fish tank heater to make a water bath for your chemical bottles and Paterson tank. And I've said it before and I'll say it again, the results do not fall off a cliff if you are a tiny bit out with timing or temperature especially if you are processing at 30C. I don't want to give the impression you can be inaccurate, but you really don't need to go to extremes to be very very close.

 

Steve

 

I haven't processed my own colour film for some time now - I used to do the lot, C41, E6, Cibachromes, but now just do my own B&W and farm out the C41, and E6 although I've not shot slides since my last roll of Kodachrome! 

 

However, my solution was a water bath kept up to temperature with…..a fish tank heater! Worked perfectly well for me. As Steve says, temperature really isn't critical. Consistency is more important. 

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A Jobo TBE-2 is the most simple way to do this. Sometimes second hand for Eur. 50,- You can control all temperatures till 45C. Bottles and Jobo tank will fit exactly in the processor. Further of course fully by hand.

Alternative the Jobo rotary processors: CPE/CPA/CPP or ATL systems. Partial or full (ATL) automatic film processing.

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At the risk of being repetitive and annoying an esteemed member above, I do my C-41 processing in various tanks, including a Rondix 60 and a Rondinax 35u (on a motorised baseplate). I find that the one minute presoak at 105 -108ºF will warm the tank sufficiently that developer at 105ºF does its work without having to return the tank to the waterbath between agitations, and in the case of the Agfa Rondix/Rondinax tanks this is especially felicitous as they don't cope with being immersed in waterbaths, and both work admirably for the 3.5 minutes required without going back into the waterbath. The blix and stabiliser are rather more agnostic about temperature and having been warmed in the waterbath that raised the developer to 105º, I pay no attention to their temperatures after that.

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For the bleach and the fixer step you can have a 3-4 degrees deviation, however in the minus you have to prolong the minimum times for it, resp. 4:20 minutes ; 6:30 minutes. Officially for C-41 you have to maintain the 37,8C/100F for the C-41 developer during 3:15 minutes +/- 0,5C. But how bigger your volume water is (CPA-2 is 18 - 20 ltr.) how easier to do this because of the high heat capacity of  the water.

Edited by fotohuis
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I am working on an alternative color processor, much cheaper then the actual  Jobo CPP-3. Also a rotary type but around Eur. 1200,- and suitable for AP, Paterson, Kaiser and Jobo drums and film tanks. Temperature control till 45C too. In just a few weeks the first proto type will be ready. :)

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