jg1976 Posted October 12, 2015 Share #1 Posted October 12, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi all, Now I need help. I want to take my photography further and want to invest in a small studio and studioflash units. Wonder if anyone has experience and what brand would be best suitable with Leica M? Kindly JG Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 Hi jg1976, Take a look here Studio Flash and Leica M 240. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Exodies Posted October 12, 2015 Share #2 Posted October 12, 2015 Have you considered renting a studio? They come full of gear and you would discover exactly what you worked best with. Price around 50€ per hour. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg1976 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted October 12, 2015 Yes, that solution has crossed my mind. However I need to know what kind of equipment fits to M-system. Or do they all fit perhaps? Like Elinchrome, Manfrotto, profoto and more.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matlep Posted October 12, 2015 Share #4 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) If you are considering buying studio equipment for the Leica M 240 there vill be no bigger difference in function if you choose a brand like Elinchrom over a brand like Profoto or a cheaper "china brand" like Valimex or Falconeyes. The difference is in the quality of the light and the quality of the equipment. I have use my Elinchrom stuff for commercial portraits with the M240 with very good results. Spend as much as you can afford. I would recommend Elinchrom for the large amount of very good lightning modifiers. And that they are premium in quality to a decent price. Edited October 12, 2015 by matlep 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg1976 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted October 12, 2015 Many thanks for your answer. Good to know it works with Elincrome as my local dealer sells just Elinchrom (not Leica though), so that would probably be the best way to go.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg1976 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted October 12, 2015 By the way, any good flashimages to share? Could be fun to see results and camerasettings... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted October 12, 2015 Share #7 Posted October 12, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Actually, I think owning a simple set of studio lights is a great idea. Like anything if you own your gear you get to know it properly. As for what works with the M? Well pretty much anything studio related. I use Broncolor, Elinchrom and Godox/Cheetah Lights on a regular basis (almost every other day). Most major brands including Alien Bees work just fine. I use wireless triggers and the nice thing about the M is that the sync speed isn't fudged so you can shoot at the maximum sync speed of 1/180 with wireless triggers. Most studio flashes are manual which is easy to learn. There's no TTL for anything except Canon/Nikon anyway in a studio unit. Manual gives you all the control you need. Wireless triggers with power control are worth their weight in gold. You'll need to decide how much power you need. 300-600WS for a smaller studio and 800-1200 for a large one will be fine. As a reference the SF58 flash is about 120WS. Then you'll need to decide if you're using AC lights or battery units. AC power will be cheaper but you can look at the Godox/Cheetah Lights which offer a great little battery unit for decent money. You'll need some modifiers to make the light nice. A small and large umbrella are almost mandatory. Get the reversible one so you have a shoot through as well.. A soft box is great for more controlled light. Start with a 60x60cm one. I have a nice strip softbox which is cool for edgy portraits. A beauty dish gives a great directional light for a modern portrait look. You'll also need a 5 in 1 reflector kit for flags and fill as well as a bunch of black and white card in various sizes to reflect, block and shape light. Obviously youll need stands. But you'll also find some really big spring clamps are incredibly useful. I have a dozen including 4 "Justin Clamps". Get a couple of Superclamps. Cloth tape, clothes pegs and some black cloth. Go to the strobist website. But the book "Light. Science and Magic" (there's a kindle version). Mostly have fun with it. Gordon 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted October 12, 2015 Share #8 Posted October 12, 2015 Studio lighting is a big subject..... more than, what lights work with the Leica. They all do with a a radio trigger. I've been a studio photographer for 40 years......when film and the view cameras were king. If your looking to buy strobes defiantly rent them first! You can do a lot with one head and a fill card. With 2 heads you can almost do anything With 3 heads you can do anything. ....sorta. The biggest change from studio film to studio digital is that, you really don't need a lot of power and too much power can be a hindrance. Lots of power means small f/stops, a welcome preference with 8 x10, 4x5 and 2.25. With the 35mm format it's easier to find your sweet spot with less power. By "sweet spot" I mean your preferred f/stop not what the strobe "makes" you do....Studio shooting all about you making the choices. Also small f/stops show sensor dust .....so get to know the clone tool in PS What exactly do you want to shoot in the studio..... people..... things .....? Whats your end goal to "taking your photography further" with the studio strobes? The studio is a fun place made better by the imitate gratification of the computer.......Good Luck 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted October 12, 2015 Share #9 Posted October 12, 2015 A little off topic but when I want to take my photography "further " I look at the work of an artist who's work I admire. For Studio Photography I've always admired the work of Irving Penn . Hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg1976 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share #10 Posted October 12, 2015 So many thanks for wonderful reply! They surely will help me out.. I´ve been shooting mainly street, portraits outside but in available lights so actually no experience with flash other when i use my SF58, but it tends to mostly be off-camera. In low light I´ve usually shoot with 50mm Summilux 1,4 and also had Noctilux so no need for flash there.. Had Leica in all my life so cannot (do not want to ) switch to anything else.. Now changing to APO-summicron 50mm and I want to test this lens out shooting portraits in studio built at home as a start.. Seen that it should work out fine, and therefore want ok equipment to use. Would be great to see actual studio shots from professionals, and also tips regarding camera settings and so.. Again, so many thanks.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echo63 Posted October 12, 2015 Share #11 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) I have used my M240 with the work Elinchrom lights (with the sky port trigger) at home i use my old Canon speed lights with Pocketwizard triggers - not as much grunt as the elinchroms, but bounced off the ceiling/walls they give me a nice clean f4@800ISO at 1/16 power for quick recycle and longer battery life - perfect for taking pics of my kids. I don't have a copy of the work Elinchrom pics (just copying a bunch of artwork, not really a good example) this one is two canon speed lights, one on the left bounced off the roof, and on on the right bounced off the wall. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited October 12, 2015 by Echo63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/251224-studio-flash-and-leica-m-240/?do=findComment&comment=2903342'>More sharing options...
jg1976 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted October 12, 2015 Surely nice one! So even speed lights do the job ok as i see.. Many thanks for wonderful image! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted October 12, 2015 Share #13 Posted October 12, 2015 I've been retired for a bit so the website hasn't been updated for a while. But almost every photo in here was shot with a studio strobe. http://www.evancohen.net If I were you .......rent first then buy...used works too: -a radio trigger (like PocketWizzard) -One head (around 200W/S} -and a fill card (a piece of white foam core) and clamp -couple stands -To make the light "pretty" ...use a soft box....or an umbrella (but the soft box makes a prettier light) -also if you choose an umbrella, have a piece or two of Rosco "diffusion filter" * on hand..... you may need to cut the light by 1 stop or 2 *or equivalent like an opaque shower curtain...be creative Leica users really love our Black and White so Google the portrait's of Irving Penn. Set you camera to ISO 100 or 125 ...... try to work at as wide an f/stop as you can (5.6 or 8) using the diffusion to cut the light Since your just testing set your camera to make Black and White JPG Don't forgert about your background....and focus on the eyes and have fun.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted October 12, 2015 Share #14 Posted October 12, 2015 don't forget to set your camera's shutter to the proper flash sync....or below Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d2mini Posted October 12, 2015 Share #15 Posted October 12, 2015 The M makes for a fantastic studio camera. I've had a set of Alien Bees forever. Don't use them very often but easy to use when needed. As stated above, any set will work with Leica as well as any other camera with a set of triggers. I use Pocket Wizards. Untitled by Dennis, on Flickr Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppyman Posted October 12, 2015 Share #16 Posted October 12, 2015 Before moving to the S system, I used the M quite a bit in studio. I use the Elinchrom monoblocs (mainly BXRI500s) and their excellent Rotalux modifiers (softboxes). I use the beauty dishes quite a bit as well. The brand has proved very reliable for me with the only item to fail being one of their wireless triggers where the case just broke from the wear and tear of off an on flash shoes and overtightening probably. That after 10,000 frames. I like that the wireless receiver is built into the monoblocs and that I can individually control settings on each unit remotely too. One of the excellent features of the Rotalux modifiers is that they fold like umbrellas when you need to pack them away. As I just rent studio space this is a big convenience for me. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/251224-studio-flash-and-leica-m-240/?do=findComment&comment=2903513'>More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted October 12, 2015 Share #17 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) +1 to the recommendation for the Strobist website and to the book "Light, Science and Magic". Both offer fundamental advice to those new to studio lighting, and the former offers cheap options. If you're just starting, I would recommend using standard speedlights till you are comfortable with basics. Since you'll be using them only in Manual or Auto modes with the M240 you can get some good quality reasonably powerful used ones off ebay: I got Nikon SB28s (all the same to simplify settings). I use Pocketwizard, though there are cheaper Chinese options now. And for cheap effective modifiers (till you learn why you may need better) you can buy cheap brollies of various sizes. You can also do a lot with one off-camera speedlight and a reflector. I started with 2 SB28s, 2 PW receivers and 1 transmitter, two compact Manfrotto stands and brackets, and two plain white brollies. I have added over the years an Elinchrom Rotalux softbox (beautiful light), a Bowens Wafer softbox (shallow for getting in close), Chimera Octa 2 (headshots) and a Profoto AcuteB2 strobe. I got the latter because I found that with group photos you need more DoF, and less light fall-off, which means greater light-subject distance and smaller aperture, which means more power than the speedlights could generate. Studio lights also recharge effectively instantly after each shot, which is vital if you are taking shots of a moving model - speedlights struggle with this. Studio lights also have modelling lights which help with set up, especially in a dim studio. What really got me started was finding a friendly studio photographer who just let me watch her in her studio for a morning, and ask idiotic questions. Edited October 12, 2015 by LocalHero1953 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglas fry Posted October 12, 2015 Share #18 Posted October 12, 2015 I use Elinchrom Quadra Ranger kit, as its portable and versatile - in fact I use it almost every day on corporate shoots with Pocket Wizard triggers. Zack Arias does a great tutorial series of videos using one light only http://dedpxl.com/product/onelight/ - I recommend it Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted October 12, 2015 Share #19 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) Before moving to the S system, I used the M quite a bit in studio. I use the Elinchrom monoblocs (mainly BXRI500s) and their excellent Rotalux modifiers (softboxes). I use the beauty dishes quite a bit as well. The brand has proved very reliable for me with the only item to fail being one of their wireless triggers where the case just broke from the wear and tear of off an on flash shoes and overtightening probably. That after 10,000 frames. I like that the wireless receiver is built into the monoblocs and that I can individually control settings on each unit remotely too. One of the excellent features of the Rotalux modifiers is that they fold like umbrellas when you need to pack them away. As I just rent studio space this is a big convenience for me. Two more things. You don't need a flash meter: you can do it by trial & error. But a good flash meter (I have a Sekonic 458) saves a lot of trial and error time, and may even convince a model you know what you're doing. Try to backanalyse the lighting on other people's shots that you like. Geoff H gave me some useful advice when I was starting with lighting, and I learned a lot from looking at his (and others') work. Edited October 12, 2015 by LocalHero1953 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitalfx Posted October 13, 2015 Share #20 Posted October 13, 2015 I use Profoto...but the brand is irrelevant. Profoto gear is top quality, but a strobe is a strobe to the camera. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.