sia Posted August 28, 2015 Share #1 Posted August 28, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello I am new on this forum and about to make a dream come true. There is a guy selling his M6 non-TTL, bought in 1996, he has been the only owner, wants cash and costs about $1100 body only. I am wondering what is there to check? Here is the link to the website (Norwegian): http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/annonse?finnkode=63021414&searchclickthrough=true&searchQuery=leica+m6 I´m going to Oslo (I live in Norway) and meet the guy and try the camera (he still has his 90mm) but my guess is that he wants to sell it ASAP. What you guys think about this? Thanks for your help! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 28, 2015 Posted August 28, 2015 Hi sia, Take a look here planning to purchase an M6: checklist?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
rpavich Posted August 28, 2015 Share #2 Posted August 28, 2015 Hello I am new on this forum and about to make a dream come true. There is a guy selling his M6 non-TTL, bought in 1996, he has been the only owner, wants cash and costs about $1100 body only. I am wondering what is there to check? Here is the link to the website (Norwegian): http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/annonse?finnkode=63021414&searchclickthrough=true&searchQuery=leica+m6 I´m going to Oslo (I live in Norway) and meet the guy and try the camera (he still has his 90mm) but my guess is that he wants to sell it ASAP. What you guys think about this? Thanks for your help! I'm no pro but if it were me, I'd check that the shutter "seems" like the speeds are working, I'd check the alignment of the patch (vertically) and anything obvious. Then I'd buy a roll of cheap black and white film, run it through the camera as fast as I could and get it developed locally in 1 hour developing with 4 x 6 prints. that should tell you everything you need to know. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sia Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted August 28, 2015 That was my thougt as well Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalHeMan Posted August 28, 2015 Share #4 Posted August 28, 2015 There is a very good checklist at camera quest https://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sia Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted August 28, 2015 Here are some pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yhnqy62y9bf6yb6/AAAqmD2_mFThOumM_zzsdfmza?dl=0 Please feel free to tell me what you think Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenInTime Posted August 28, 2015 Share #6 Posted August 28, 2015 Specific to M6 cameras, check the frame counter resets when the base plate is removed - common failure of a plastic part. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted August 28, 2015 Share #7 Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) Ok....thanks for the pictures. I'd say that 1100.00 is on the upper end for ones that's a bit dirty and has some brassing and dings. I just bought one off of ebay for 1200.00 and it's mint and that wasn't unusual that I could see, 1100.00 to 1300.00 was about the going rate. If it were me, I'd try and get him to knock 150.00 off of the price. If he doesn't...oh well...you get a nice camera and you'll be thrilled. Edited August 28, 2015 by rpavich 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BjarniM Posted August 28, 2015 Share #8 Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) Welcome to the forum! I would check these things: Overall condition. I think you can get a pretty good impression just looking at the overall condition. Of course this doesn't tell the whole story, but look at the overall condition. Run a film through the camera and have it developed before you buy the camera. Take a span with many shutter times, and you will see both how the shutter is calibrated, and if the lightmeter is working as it should. Pay attention to the fast shutter times. Take pictures of even lit bright surfaces (a white wall for example) with the fast shutter times. If the shutter needs calibration, you will see it in these pictures, where a part of the surface is darker and one brighter. Look at the top plate and back of the camera. Are the small bubbles, just tiny ones? Some of the models are suffering from zinc corrosion which have a tendency to get worse over time. Look inside the battery cover. Is there any corrosion inside? It could cost you some 100 dollars to fix if there's corrosion inside. Viewfinder flare is common with the M6 - some to a more severe degree than other. You can see this when direct sunlight is hitting the viewfinder from the sides/upwards. My M6 flares, but i can only remember missing one shot those almost 20 years because of this. My point is, it isn't such a big issue as some are making it. Check the film chamber and the shutter curtain (also from the front). Does it look clean and corrosion free inside? You are urging us to feel free to say what we think. Let me put it this way. I would not have paid 1100 USD for that particular camera you're showing pictures of via DropBox. It looks - sorry my words - both dusty and dirty, and not especially well taken care of. Or else it has been used very much. I don't think i would have paid more than 800 USD for that camera, since the dollar is pretty high at the moment against the norwegian krone. That said it could well be a camera you could use for many, many years without having problems with it. But, i would either chose to get the price reduced, or look for another camera. Try for example dba.dk where they from time to time come at good prices if you just are patient. I don't think you will pay taxes importing from Denmark to Norway. Just my two cents. No matter what you do - enjoy and good luck with the camera Edited August 28, 2015 by BjarniM 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted August 28, 2015 Share #9 Posted August 28, 2015 Hi, These are fairly simple cameras, but the problem is that like an expensive make of car, if something goes wrong it's usually expensive to fix (in comparison with other makes). In addition to the above pointers, take the cap off and open up the back - look through the mount to check for any pinholes in the shutter curtains (can happen with wear or can be burnt through if the camera is left with lens on pointing at the sun for a prolonged time). Check both curtains! Check that the meter is working - compare with another camera or exposure meter (or sunny 16 if you don't have either - google it). Check the top plate for signs of 'corrosion' little pimples in the paintwork - not a deal breaker but more a bargaining point! Set the shutter to 1 second and time it. Check the shutter firing at each speed (usually if the slow speeds are OK the faster ones will be too). Check that the led's in the viewfinder work correctly. Check the frame lines work OK - use the preview lever - to make sure they're not sticking. My advice to newbies is always to buy your first Leica from a dealer. You know you're buying a fully working camera, and have come back if not. You also have a source of hands on help and advice. Good luck and let us know what you do. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sia Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share #10 Posted August 28, 2015 Thanks a lot Benutzer! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BjarniM Posted August 28, 2015 Share #11 Posted August 28, 2015 Forgot to mention one thing. A guy in Denmark offered me a newly serviced M6 TTL, which this summer was given a very thorough service check at Leica in Germany (service report and invoice is available) and changed some parts, so the camera is in a very good working condition now. I simply rejected since i have too many cameras now, and have to stop collecting at some point Send me a message via the message system on this site, if you're interested, then i could give you his email. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sia Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted August 28, 2015 Thanks James! Unfortunately dealers here have mostly digital cameras and Leica Ms are not shown in the vitrine, you have to ask if they have one for sale. Don't ask me why. I will try to get it at $800 (6600 Kr). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sia Posted August 29, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted August 29, 2015 The seller said there was battery oxidation or something alike, you know when you leave battery too long in place... " lines work OK - use the preview lever" how to do that in practice? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
madNbad Posted August 29, 2015 Share #14 Posted August 29, 2015 (edited) Battery oxidation is not a good sign. The framelines should come up with the proper focal length lens mounted. The counter isn't snapping back to zero, you could do a lot better for the same money. There are a lot of M6s' out there and many really nice ones for the same money. You have come to the right place for advice, look for a better copy. Welcome to the forum. Edited August 29, 2015 by madNbad 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted August 29, 2015 Share #15 Posted August 29, 2015 The seller said there was battery oxidation or something alike, you know when you leave battery too long in place... " lines work OK - use the preview lever" how to do that in practice? The lever under the viewfinder, move it to check the frame lines snap into place. Pass on that camera - overpriced and possible damage from a leaking battery. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted August 29, 2015 Share #16 Posted August 29, 2015 And of course there's this issue that you'll only discover when you start using the camera…. http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/249439-strange-flarelight-leakflashed-film/ Another good reason for buying from a dealer. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sia Posted August 29, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted August 29, 2015 I'm taking a film with me there and will shoot some pictures with a 90mm. Thanks a lot for your help Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted August 29, 2015 Share #18 Posted August 29, 2015 Sia, if I can afford to give you some advice, buy the M6 with a professional with guarantee (eg a Leica center) This is slightly more expensive but you will be quiet, if problem back to the seller.It avoids surprises after ! usually around 1000-1200 E in good condition. Rg Henry 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted August 29, 2015 Share #19 Posted August 29, 2015 If new to this I would strongly support the advice of buying from a recognised and respected dealer. Many offer a 6 month warranty and some have a return-within-a-few-weeks-for-a-full-refund-if-not-satisfied policy. On a quick search just now of a few respected dealers, M6s can be had for under $1400USD equivalent. I would think this security is well worth the few hundred dollars more than you would spend. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sia Posted August 29, 2015 Author Share #20 Posted August 29, 2015 Thanks for your advices guys. Unfortunately there are no official Leica dealers here. The only good photo store here have sometimes Leicas but they even dont display them on the vitrine. It seems like they want to sell then to "known" customers. Apart of that, there are some japanese ebay sellers that have unconditional return policy, what do you think about that? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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