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Lens coding by Leica


ShivaYash

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I wouldn't recommend anyone doing a self replace of a flange on a Leica. Best to let Leica do it.

 

Also flanges bought off eBay are not necessarily the best.

Thanks but you are late to the party on this. We are all aware of the differences. #statingtheobvious ;-) Edited by ShivaYash
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Having replaced a bunch of flanges,  I will tell you it is not as simple as remove replace.    I have removed flanges from Lenses I purchased new decades ago and the thickness varied from .039"  to .41" .  The 39 was most common.  

 

Now how can a generic be the correct thickness?   I even had one generic where the thickness varied one side to the other by .002.

 

I first found the problem when I tested a completed lens and an object 75 feet away was the focus point.     The grass 10 feet away was what was sharp.  Measurements of flange thickness  showed me the problem.   .001 is the problem.  So I ground it down from 40 to 39 and now the lens focuses correctly.

 

As for paint,  GM black and Arctic white are my car colors and I filled the pits using them as that was what easily accessible.  All the lenses are read correctly on M8 and M9.   

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I've just done my Summicron 35 ASPH using a Roxsen ring, and some matt Humbrol paint (white and black). A few coats a few hours apart, and constantly cleaning the excess with spirit alcohol. I'm not particularly handy, but it was fairly easy to do. Both my M240 and T read the code now without a problem.

However I ordered a ring for my 90mm TE Thin, and the one I received had completely misplaced screw holes, despite ordering the correct ring for 90mm lenses. Something to be wary of.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The new flange arrived today, all the way from China. The quality is very good and almost identical to the 20 year old flange. I test mounted it and its works nice, although feels very 'new'. This isn't really tight but the milled edges just seem a little fresh. The new flange has not changed the focus at all, I'm quite impressed. Now I need to buy some matt black and white paint, and some hypodermic needles to complete the job. For the moment, the old flange is back on the lens. There was quite a bit of oil under the flange. Should I oil the new one, or wipe the old oil away? I can't think why it needs oil.

 

With best,

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They are surprisingly good aren't they? I didn't notice any focus issues with the 90 Elmarit I converted either... (unlike my Leica 35 Cron I've discussed on another thread, which is either faulty or I have serious user problems on this one lens - which I hope I can't rule out - just yet! :) )

Edited by Bill Livingston
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I've just done my Summicron 35 ASPH using a Roxsen ring, and some matt Humbrol paint (white and black). A few coats a few hours apart, and constantly cleaning the excess with spirit alcohol. I'm not particularly handy, but it was fairly easy to do. Both my M240 and T read the code now without a problem.

However I ordered a ring for my 90mm TE Thin, and the one I received had completely misplaced screw holes, despite ordering the correct ring for 90mm lenses. Something to be wary of.

Not all 90 mm lenses have the same screw configuration. You must be more specific when ordering.

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I've just done my Summicron 35 ASPH using a Roxsen ring, and some matt Humbrol paint (white and black). A few coats a few hours apart, and constantly cleaning the excess with spirit alcohol. I'm not particularly handy, but it was fairly easy to do. Both my M240 and T read the code now without a problem.

However I ordered a ring for my 90mm TE Thin, and the one I received had completely misplaced screw holes, despite ordering the correct ring for 90mm lenses. Something to be wary of.

I have no direct experience about the "Thin", but on this TE 90 of mine (left, of course...) seems quite impossible to find a codable mount.. 

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They are surprisingly good aren't they? I didn't notice any focus issues with the 90 Elmarit I converted either... (unlike my Leica 35 Cron I've discussed on another thread, which is either faulty or I have serious user problems on this one lens - which I hope I can't rule out - just yet! :) )

 

Hello Bill,

 

Do I read the code RIGHT to LEFT or the other way round?

For my 35/2 IV the coding, RIGHT to LEFT, as far as I understand is (looking at the flange facing up, with the coding at 4 o'clock:

 

WHITE - BLACK - BLACK - WHITE - WHITE - WHITE

 

Is that right?

 

With best,

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Hi,

 

kind of... It's simpler if you think of it this way...

 

just put the machined indents at twelve o'clock clock and then read them clockwise...

 

for your 35/2 IV it should read...

 

 

Thats, WHITE - WHITE - WHITE - BLACK - BLACK - WHITE

 

If you mess it up, you can remove the paint and try again! :) 

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I have no direct experience about the "Thin", but on this TE 90 of mine (left, of course...) seems quite impossible to find a codable mount.. 

attachicon.gifTE90+Elm_M90.jpg

 

The "Thin" TE 90mm has one of the flange retaining screws in the middle of the codable area. I had mine coded by Malcolm Taylor when I sent the lens to him for servicing. It does mean that a screw head is painted over but it works well. I had previously managed to hand code it but of course the coding wears off quickly unless there are the correct coding pits.

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I just tried my 75 Summilux with a Roxsen eBay flange and matt enamel paint.

 

The coding worked correctly but I can see immediately that the lens now front focusses.

 

I switched it back to the original mount, I think I'll leave it to Leica at a later date.

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Well, how did you get on?

 

Everything working as it should...? Camera EXIF all correct and its recognising the lens correctly..?

Hello there

 

I decided to use a hypodermic needle to fill the holes with paint. They are due to arrive in the post shortly. I saw that Leica use a similar method ;-)

 

Whilst there is something nice about having factory solution, for an old lens that I use a lot, I can't be without it for that long and don't want to 'lose' £400 in the process.

 

Will report back post handy work with photos.

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Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Progress update.

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I just tried my 75 Summilux with a Roxsen eBay flange and matt enamel paint.

 

The coding worked correctly but I can see immediately that the lens now front focusses.

 

I switched it back to the original mount, I think I'll leave it to Leica at a later date.

 

If it worked correctly, why are you switching back to the original mount? What are you not happy about with the Roxsen mount?

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After a day of filling six little holes with black and white paint, I give up. The mount does not fit and feel as it should. But it's been a great experience. Here is the final result. You'll note the scratch marks from the excess paint. The old mount is back on for the time being and no doubt next year once I'm back, this lens will go to Leica for a service and coding. 5fc88d70e5c02780625b0cc5ff5b32f4.jpg

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