ShivaYash Posted August 22, 2015 Share #1 Posted August 22, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello I want my 35f2 IV coded. Any experience on here? How much do they charge? Ta Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 22, 2015 Posted August 22, 2015 Hi ShivaYash, Take a look here Lens coding by Leica. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Bill Livingston Posted August 22, 2015 Share #2 Posted August 22, 2015 it's very easy to do yourself... I coded my 90/2.8 . Use the search function to find the thread. I'll check tomorrow if I have the right part and pm you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted August 22, 2015 it's very easy to do yourself... I coded my 90/2.8 . Use the search function to find the thread. I'll check tomorrow if I have the right part and pm you. Thanks. I've heard Leica replace the mount flange and then fix focus adjustment. Not sure it's worth the cost but my other two lens are coded. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Livingston Posted August 22, 2015 Share #4 Posted August 22, 2015 Have a look at this.... http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/237215-6-bit-coding-of-lenses-in-new-york/ 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocaburger Posted August 22, 2015 Share #5 Posted August 22, 2015 The proper coding involves two black pits (white ones are not needed) bracketing one of the flange screws. I removed the screw, milled the surrounding area, replaced the screw, and filled everything in (including the screw head) with flat black enamel. I would suspect that when Leica does it they use a flange that doesn't use that screw, instead has the 6 pits. I prefer the full complement of screws, but unless one is experienced with a dreml or other milling apparatus, I would be hesitant to encourage DIY. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Livingston Posted August 22, 2015 Share #6 Posted August 22, 2015 you can buy the flanges and I would recommend filling in both the white and the black codes. Some people have had difficulty getting all cameras to read the coding otherwise... even the correct (Matt) paint makes a difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocaburger Posted August 23, 2015 Share #7 Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) The only time I have heard of trouble getting the cameras to read the codes is if the coding was done superficially with a sharpie marker. I have hand-coded close to a dozen lenses, including LTM-M adapters, never done a white pit (except to paint a screw head white on my 21 pre-ASPH that otherwise makes the camera think it's a 90/2.8), and they have all been read perfectly on my M8, M9 and 2 M240's as well as numerous other bodies of those types not belonging to me. The readers see the chrome or brass of the flange as white, and in fact if you mill in the pits for the white bits, there is a chance if the pit is too deep and/or the paint is not reflective enough, that the reader could potentially see it as a black one, which would mess up the coding. If you mean buy the flange from Leica, it should be fine. I would be leery of aftermarket flanges though, because if they are not at exact thickness tolerance it could cause unsharpness issues. In the case of the v.4 Summicron, there is also a flange screw right where the pits need to be, so a replacement flange would have one less screw than the lens was designed for. I don't know if that would have any affect or not. Edited August 23, 2015 by bocaburger Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted August 23, 2015 The only time I have heard of trouble getting the cameras to read the codes is if the coding was done superficially with a sharpie marker. I have hand-coded close to a dozen lenses, including LTM-M adapters, never done a white pit (except to paint a screw head white on my 21 pre-ASPH that otherwise makes the camera think it's a 90/2.8), and they have all been read perfectly on my M8, M9 and 2 M240's as well as numerous other bodies of those types not belonging to me. The readers see the chrome or brass of the flange as white, and in fact if you mill in the pits for the white bits, there is a chance if the pit is too deep and/or the paint is not reflective enough, that the reader could potentially see it as a black one, which would mess up the coding. If you mean buy the flange from Leica, it should be fine. I would be leery of aftermarket flanges though, because if they are not at exact thickness tolerance it could cause unsharpness issues. In the case of the v.4 Summicron, there is also a flange screw right where the pits need to be, so a replacement flange would have one less screw than the lens was designed for. I don't know if that would have any affect or not. I didn't think Leica would be keen on selling such parts to the public. But I'll ask Leica Mayfair. Am pretty sure they will say no. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted August 23, 2015 Share #9 Posted August 23, 2015 I'm pretty sure they will say NO! as well. The option of buying a £15 replacement flange from Ebay has to be weighed against the vast expense of Leica doing the job. But buy the correct flange and all you need is an 00 screwdriver and a small amount of mechanical sympathy. It may well work, even if it is assumed to be cheap Chinese rubbish by some, I mean who in this day and age would set up a lathe to produce thousands of inaccurate and potentially worthless flanges? I've never bought one that is inaccurate or out of specification, and lets face it, it can't cost Leica more than £15 to make their own flanges, so does it make sense not to at least try? Steve 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share #10 Posted August 23, 2015 Hmmm. I've just taken the plunge and spent £15 on this. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=200690699955&globalID=EBAY-GB I too think it's not a complex job, so long as the Chinese copy is the same thickness. Is there is a difference between German and Chinese stainless steel ;-)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlaing Posted August 23, 2015 Share #11 Posted August 23, 2015 Hmmm. I've just taken the plunge and spent £15 on this. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=200690699955&globalID=EBAY-GB I too think it's not a complex job, so long as the Chinese copy is the same thickness. Is there is a difference between German and Chinese stainless steel ;-)? It's what I use and it works beautifully. Make sure the coding pits are filled to the top with paint. It may take several applications. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlaing Posted August 23, 2015 Share #12 Posted August 23, 2015 And they're brass not stainless. Chrome plated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Livingston Posted August 23, 2015 Share #13 Posted August 23, 2015 Those are the flanges I used. They work extremely well. I thought I may have had a spare of the correct type which I could have sent you, no charge, but as you have already ordered, no matter... If you need any help, let me know. Take note of jdlaing's comment and make sure you fill the pits (both black and white) to make sure you get no issues with your camera reading the codes. Humbrol or Revel Matt Black and Matt White enamel is the recommended paint and the guide to use was posted on the thread I linked to earlier iirc... Bill 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocaburger Posted August 23, 2015 Share #14 Posted August 23, 2015 Agreed, if the flanges are precision machined they should be fine. Idek if Leica makes their own flanges in-house, and if they don't, where they source them from. Of course no one would purposely set up a mill lathe to machine inaccurately, but being involved with milling I can vouch that there are always some outliers in every production run. The problem comes when there is lax or no QC, and every piece that comes off the line is put up for sale. Not that Leica's QC has a flawless reputation And absolutely, if you're using a flange or adapter milled with all 6 pits it is essential that the white ones be filled-in as well, because due to the depth, the reader can "see" them as black. If you are DIYing you only need to mill the pits that will receive black paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenInTime Posted August 24, 2015 Share #15 Posted August 24, 2015 I just got my 90mm Summicron ASPH back from Leica NJ. The lens was perfect at 0.7m and infinity but un-useable at 6m on a M9 ( though I used it for many years on a M6 ) It was $450 and 4 months to 6 bit code and correct the terrible mid-distance front focus. I would imagine your 35mm would likely cost less ( or at worst no more ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frase Posted August 24, 2015 Share #16 Posted August 24, 2015 I've used similar mounts and coded all my lenses never had any problems, just make sure you have some good screwdrivers! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted August 25, 2015 I've been on the medisupplies.co.uk website but can't seem to decide which syringe and needle combination would be best, to fill the pits with matt paint. I thin this method would be best, and I'll allow for a 72 hour drying time. Any thoughts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share #18 Posted August 25, 2015 https://www.medisupplies.co.uk/Syringes-Needles/Sterile-Needles/BD-Hypodermic-Needles Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thighslapper Posted August 25, 2015 Share #19 Posted August 25, 2015 Matt black humbrol (or similar) enamel is ok I do a couple of coats a few hours apart Ignore the white bits ....... complete waste of time. Never bought a replacement flange and self coded with my jewellery flexi-shaft drill with a grinding burr Doesn't matter if the black pits are a bit too big ..... or even joined together ...... the sensors are so sensitive that they will register anything that isn't absolutely black and non-reflective ....... so even overlapping the 'white' areas a bit is not an issue. Any problems are nearly always down to not enough, and not matt enough, black paint in the right places ...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rramesh Posted August 26, 2015 Share #20 Posted August 26, 2015 I wouldn't recommend anyone doing a self replace of a flange on a Leica. Best to let Leica do it. Also flanges bought off eBay are not necessarily the best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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