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Returning To Film ....


ReturningToFilm

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Go outdoors so you can use a higher shutter speed and smaller aperture and take some pictures you can use as a datum point. At the moment you/we are chasing around fundamental but simple problems that cannot be resolved until you have a sharp negative that you aren't afraid to post process. Is your monitor calibrated?

 

 

Steve

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Hi Steve

Thanks for the advice- I'll try to get out a bit and really practise careful focussing. I'll upload some scans once the next rolls are done.

 

Re: calibration; that's a good point and don't think its calibrated for B&W - any suggestions for doing so would be appreciated.

Thanks again!

Paul

 

It just needs calibrating for colour. I was wondering why on the whole your photo's were so low contrast and thought perhaps you may have turned the contrast of your monitor up to suit some other application and you were seeing something we aren't. 

 

If you are using Vuescan turn any sharpening off, and of course turn off 'dust removal', go to 'Color' and set the White and Black clipping points to zero, adjust the Brightness to something average, then scan at the highest resolution at those settings. You will get a very horrible flat low contrast scan, but this is good because it should contain as much unadulterated information as it's possible to get from the negative. Then in Lightroom or Photoshop make your contrast and brightness adjustments. You will be using figures that you would never get near with an average digital file, but don't be afraid to go that far with the contrast slider, you need to go as far as necessary to achieve a normal contrast range in the picture. Do all your other adjustments then sharpen the image. Again with a scanned film image you will be using sharpening settings far beyond those usually used with a modern digital image. For a 35mm hi-res file I'd start with USM at Amount 180, Radius 0.7 to 1 and see what it looks like (different films etc. require different settings).

 

Steve

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