T Settings

[Learner]

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I'm sure I'm going to have many questions about settings. Here's the first:

 

 

When I look at the screen, the picture-to-be looks pretty good

 

When I look at the histogram, the graph is heaped to the left (darkness)

 

But when I look at the resulting shot taken (on the camera's screen), it's over-exposed.

 

Why?

 

To out the question another way: How do I get the shot taken to approximate the shot anticipated?

 

=====

 

Please excuse me if I'm using the wrong terms

[Belle123]

I am just guessing, but check your monitor brightness setting.  

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[Learner]

Thank you for replying BBL.

 

The monitor brightness is at factory setting, so I didn't think that could be the problem, but will take a gander.

 

John

[Learner]

It was set to Auto.

[Belle123]

Haven't had this problem myself except sometimes in really bright light I get off and overexposed.  What kind of light conditions are you shooting?  I find under exposing a tad, to work better in bright light.  Is the resulting image just slightly overexposed or a lot?

[tom0511]

Why not just set the display brightness so that it looks right for you?

Regarding exp compensation I often dial in -1/3 sometimes even -2/3.

I find the files from the T have relativly bright midtones so the files come out nice with some  minus exp compensation and you avoid blow highlights/blown color channels.

[Learner]

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Will experiment.

 

Here's another query:

 

On Spot Metering, why do I get one or more green boxes?

[Learner]

Thank you Tom… I didn't mean to skip your response, but I didn't immediately see it.

[Belle123]

Will experiment.

 

Here's another query:

 

On Spot Metering, why do I get one or more green boxes?

Hmmmm. I don't get that on my T but then I am using M lenses and shooting manually? It may be something that happens when shooting automatic with auto focus with a T lens. I will defer that to someone with a T lens on their T.

[tom0511]

Will experiment.

 

Here's another query:

 

On Spot Metering, why do I get one or more green boxes?

The green boxes have nothing to do with exposure metering but with autofocus. If you use face detection or multi point AF you can get several green boxes meaning the AF has detected more than one subject to focus on. (by the way in such case I find it hard to know where the camera focuses exactly.) I use either one point AF/spot AF or face detection. I also mainly use multi point exposure metering which I think works very well for most things, just sometimes a litlle exp comp.

[Learner]

That's a great help Tom. Many thanks.

 

Got another:

 

"Auto Focus Mode" is not grayed-out, but when I tap it, nothing happens. Any ideas?

 

John

[Guest]

A few quick guesses / hints...

 

If you have Auto Focus set to "Manual Focus", then nothing happens when you touch "Auto Focus Mode" (they are separate menu functions - although AFM has the icon only greyed out in the center - and the words (AFM) are not).

 

Regarding your over-exposed shots - are you using Auto ISO and Multi-Field metering?

 

If not, spot or center-weighted metering may be problematic if the center is dark and the rest of the shot is very bright. 

 

And, if your ISO is set too low (say, fixed at 100), the camera won't stop you from taking a pic, even though it may be very over-exposed  (like if your shutter is maxed at 4,000 and lens maxed at f/16 - but maybe it's not enough because ISO is fixed at 100 on a bright sunny day.

 

I don't look much at the histogram beforehand - so I'm not sure what that's telling you and whether it's accurate to the overall exposure.

 

Is your firmware at v 1.3?  (That may have nothing to do with any of this - but it's good to be at the latest level.)

 

I generally set my Auto Focus Mode to "Spot" and my ISO to Auto (between 100-1600, or you can go to 3200 and use Noise Reduction in post-processing if you're using the zoom in low light).

 

I hope this is helpful. 

 

Have fun with your new T!  Best-

[Learner]

More good information / advice. Thank you DGP.

 

I'm running firmware 1.310

 

Not trying to be cute, but how does one set Auto Focus to Manual Focus?

[Guest]

There's a separate menu box for "Focus Mode" which is different from "Auto Focus Mode".

 

Focus Mode is Auto Focus Single, AF Continuous, Manual

Auto Focus Mode is Spot, 1 point, Multi Point, Touch AF, Touchh AF - release

 

You have to be in an Auto Focus mode (Single or Continuous in the FOCUS MODE box) to activate the "Auto Focus Modes".

 

After some practice - it will become more natural to you.

 

It's a good thing the T is such an inspiring instrument.  It will tug on you to use the camera often - which is good because then, the user interface will become intuitive.

 

I had the same questions... It takes a while to get it down. 

 

Enjoy!!

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Edited August 2, 2015 by Guest

[gbealnz]

Good info here, thank you all.

Possibly part of my not knowing some of this stems from the fact I have never used A/F on my T, no A/F lenses unfortunately.

Gary

[Learner]

Thank you DGP.

 

====

 

I'm in AFs mode… Just wondering why the One-Point focus rectangle is off-centre. Don't know what I did.

[Guest]

A few quick guesses / hints...

 

If you have Auto Focus set to "Manual Focus", then nothing happens when you touch "Auto Focus Mode" (they are separate menu functions - although AFM has the icon only greyed out in the center - and the words (AFM) are not).

 

Regarding your over-exposed shots - are you using Auto ISO and Multi-Field metering?

 

If not, spot or center-weighted metering may be problematic if the center is dark and the rest of the shot is very bright. 

 

And, if your ISO is set too low (say, fixed at 100), the camera won't stop you from taking a pic, even though it may be very over-exposed  (like if your shutter is maxed at 4,000 and lens maxed at f/16 - but maybe it's not enough because ISO is fixed at 100 on a bright sunny day.

 

I don't look much at the histogram beforehand - so I'm not sure what that's telling you and whether it's accurate to the overall exposure.

 

Is your firmware at v 1.3?  (That may have nothing to do with any of this - but it's good to be at the latest level.)

 

I generally set my Auto Focus Mode to "Spot" and my ISO to Auto (between 100-1600, or you can go to 3200 and use Noise Reduction in post-processing if you're using the zoom in low light).

 

I hope this is helpful. 

 

Have fun with your new T!  Best-

OOPS - I said the ISO stuff all wrong - Yikes!

 

If your ISO is set too HIGH - like at 1600, and it's a bright day - you are likely to over-expose the shot and the camera will take the pic anyway.  The shutter speed and F stop info will turn RED within the LCD/EVF to alert you that the shot is not properly exposed (for either UNDER or OVER exposure.  

 

TheT's  files have very good dynamic range so you can pull out details from shadows (underexposed shots) - but if you over-expose something you may blow out the highlights which is not as easy to recover...

 

I make it a point to lock the 3 icons on the right side of the LCD (by swiping DOWN from top to bottom directly over them) so I don't accidentally press them while carrying the camera.  I have, on occasion, changed ISO or something else by accident this way.  You can also lock the top dials if you are maybe spinning them by accident.

 

You may have done that with your center spot - moved it by accident.  If you press the arrow that is to the right of "One Point" within the AUTO FOCUS MODE sub menu, it will take you to a screen where the focus point is - and you can spin the dials to move the Focus Point either  UP or DOWN.  You can press the icon on the right - the 2nd one that looks almost like a full circle with an arrow at one end -to RESET the focus point to the center.