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Metal developing tank recommendations


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I'm starting out with developing film at home and getting supplies together. Does anyone have recommendations for suppliers that stock new metal development tanks, that can be used with 135 and 129 reels? I was planning to buy reels from Hewes. UK or EU suppliers would be ideal. Thanks in advance.

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I've always used the old Nikor tanks that were carried by Honeywell. All stainless tank, lid, and cap, and last almost forever. Lots of different depths for numbers of reels. Lately I use one that holds a single 35mm reel, but used to use the double / 120 size. You can find them often on eBay.

Hewes reels are great -the easiest to load.

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Never had a problem with plastic myself, Paterson are easy to get (in the UK) and easy to find replacement or additional bits for. Plastic isn't as susceptible to temperature changes as steel, so putting the tank down onto a hotter or cooler surface during processing won't immediately affect the temperature of the chemicals. Either way I recommend a tank twice as big as a 120 film (so a 2x120 size), even if you are only processing one 35mm. The reason for this is if you us the Ilford Archival washing method which saves water, you can at least double up the quantity of water for each rinse and be doubly sure you've removed all fixer. A larger tank also holds it's temperature better, especially if you use more developer than required, so slowing the temperature drop during long processing that may be required with some developer recipes. 

 

Steve

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Thanks to all above replies.  

 

I've only focused on metal due to the advise I'd received - yet it appears a toss up online.  Paterson can be bought from loads of places, whereas I'm struggling to find suppliers of metal tanks.  Either way I don't want to get used ones.  

 

Either way I recommend a tank twice as big as a 120 film (so a 2x120 size), even if you are only processing one 35mm. 

 

If using a larger sized tank and developing only one film, is it recommended to fill the tank regardless with developing mix and pad the void with unused reels?  I'm assuming this would be better for agitation...

 

Also I'm in a hard water area - the Chilterns - and have read hard water can affect the developer (I was planning on using HC110 or DDX with Tri-x, as I don't shoot that much film to bother with D76).  Is it recommended to use distilled for the developing mix and tap (hard) water with the later steps?  Distilled water on Amazon is actually quite expensive!

Edited by leicasnapper
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You will need the distilled water and I would use it for the total process but use the Ilford system for washing to save water. I use a Patterson tank and plastic reels, generally I do one roll at a time but was given a good tip to load an empty reel if it is a two reel tank to keep the film loaded reel from not having enough developer over it. You only need enough developer to cover the reel, not to fill the tank if it holds more than one ( assuming you are only processing one film loaded reel at a time) good luck, it's great fun processing your own b&w film.

 

John

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There is distilled and demineralized water. Distilled is too good for your purpose. Distilled water is more for hospitals.

 

The last watering should be demin. water with Agepon or something else without handcare.

 

I have used a plastic tank, no problems. I have never needed or used a multi reel tank.

Jan

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If using a larger sized tank and developing only one film, is it recommended to fill the tank regardless with developing mix and pad the void with unused reels?  I'm assuming this would be better for agitation...

 

 The idea of using an extra reel on top comes from the days when the Paterson reels didn't have a plastic spring designed into them to stop them riding up the central rod during development, so a clip was supplied instead and this often got lost. But you don't need to use more chemicals than necessary, especially at the price of DD-X, I just mentioned it as an option for when you progress. You wouldn't want a brim full tank anyway because you wouldn't get any movement of liquid top to bottom.

 

As regards hard water, I'm in Derbyshire where it is moderately hard and use both DD-X and HC110 without problems. Analysing any problems you get is process that requires changing one thing at a time and cross referencing, but I wouldn't set out with the idea your tap water can't be used for each step in the process from mixing developer to washing. In fact I wouldn't set out with the prospect of problems in your mind at all, you won't have any! 

 

I'll echo what John said, processing your own film is great fun, but it is all too easy to get too caught up in possible problems before you even start. Follow something like the Ilford guide which is sensible and most importantly devoid of conflicting 'opinion'.

 

Steve

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One has to be a bit lucky to find stainless steel tanks. I found mine at an old camera shop here in the Netherlands that had stuff in the back they couldn't get rid of. Then there's eBay of course. Second-hand Darkroom Supplies, Imaging Warehouse and similar (AG Photographic too?) would be UK firms I'd check with. They usually stock stainless steel reels, though (and look around because they jack up prices on Hewes reels sometimes).

 

Mine's a Kindermann tank that can take 5x35mm reels or 2x 120 reels. It seems Kindermann is sometimes overlooked because of how popular Hewes is.

 

The reels are easy to load. They have a "lip" on the centre spool and are easy to load. I've never used Paterson or other plastic reels but given how simple it is to load stainless steel reels (even when wet/not entirely dry) I see no reason to change. 

 

I often develop less than 5 films and just put developer to cover the reels (though I've seen lots of strong opinions expressed online about the benefits and disadvantages of this). And I add empty reels to fill the tank just because I don't want the reels to clang about in the tank when agitating.

 

I use normal tap water for the whole process and get good results.

 

Fotoimpex in Berlin sells this one-reel tank. I remember seeing a seller that had stainless steel tanks in various sizes but I can't find it now. I think it may have been from Japan or Korea.

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Very helpful once again thankyou.

 

I realised after seeing the Fotoimpex link that searching for 'stainless' rather that 'metal' opens up the results I was searching for.  Calumet are local and do a set of sizes - they also do Paterson.  Frankly speaking, I'm sure I'll be fine with anything, its only the start in any case.

https://www.calphoto.co.uk/product/Calumet-35mm-Single-Reel-Stainless-Steel-Tank/CP9073

 

On the developer..  I was turning away from D-76 due to the sizes of the powder sachets and shorter shelf life - and the fact I can sometimes takes weeks to expose a few rolls.  Admitedly may be way off course here, but is it worth considering certain developers with certain shelf lives to suit my pace?

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Admitedly may be way off course here, but is it worth considering certain developers with certain shelf lives to suit my pace?

 

Both HC110 and Rodinal last for ever. On the other hand you mentioned DD-X earlier and although a very good developer it only lasts a couple of months in an opened bottle, but it is diluted 1+4 and only comes in 1 litre bottles so you may get through that OK.

 

Steve

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Strongly suggest you look into Kindermann tanks.  Apparently they are no longer made, I'm glad I have a bunch of them!  The huge advantage is they have a loading jig that fits into the reel's core, you feed the film down a slot and there's a prong in the center that grips the film, then a little tab on the reel let's you turn it like a crank.  The film winds on in a couple seconds with never a misload. 

 

m1eElGB4OTYIAhLvZyyYtig.jpgmtk-_Ggy0M5Tjxw-wAEKmyQ.jpg

Edited by bocaburger
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Strongly suggest you look into Kindermann tanks.  Apparently they are no longer made, I'm glad I have a bunch of them!  The huge advantage is they have a loading jig that fits into the reel's core, you feed the film down a slot and there's a prong in the center that grips the film, then a little tab on the reel let's you turn it like a crank.  The film winds on in a couple seconds with never a misload. 

 

m1eElGB4OTYIAhLvZyyYtig.jpgmtk-_Ggy0M5Tjxw-wAEKmyQ.jpg

I agree that the Kinderman tanks and reels are by far the best metal system and I have used them with no problems. However I have always found the Paterson System to be the way to go and I used it for many (and still do). Also very easy to get hold of.

Edited by Matlock
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On the developer..  I was turning away from D-76 due to the sizes of the powder sachets and shorter shelf life - and the fact I can sometimes takes weeks to expose a few rolls.  Admitedly may be way off course here, but is it worth considering certain developers with certain shelf lives to suit my pace?

 

For me the gaps between sessions of developing can be over three months due to extended trips abroad, so having once fallen foul of expired Ilfosol 3, I have settled on Rodinal.  Lasts almost forever (undiluted) and I find the tonal gradation very pleasing - to my eyes, anyway! Lots more examples in Film Album on my Flickr page.

 

As to tanks, I have only ever used Paterson and find the facility to expand a 35mm reel to take 120 very useful.

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is it worth considering certain developers with certain shelf lives to suit my pace?

 

HC110 Kodak liquid, has an expiry date, what doesn't these days, but works well after that, years in fact. A range of dilutions for various "effects" and times reliable and one shot so consistent, available at every outlet that does any darkroom equipment, even Calumet  :)

https://www.calphoto.co.uk/product/Kodak-HC-110-Developer-Makes-1-L-/153-726N?tracking=|searchterm:hc110

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

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I can definitely support Kindermann steel tanks - I inherited mine from Methuselah, and they work fine. As noted above, the loader device works really well, but is not required at all.

 

I have also had very good success with Jobo (also old). 

 

One minor advantage of the metal reels is that they are easier to clean. 

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They all work IF USED PROPERLY.

 

But to answer question,  Nikor if you can find one.   Genuine Nikor reels, undamaged, are far and away the best. Hewes a distant second second.   The rest I can not even load in daylight.

 

Lids are fitted to individual tanks.  If someone mixed them,  you will get leaks.   

 

Take a roll with you to see it works properly.  Nikors self lock the leader and I have yet to figure out how after 40 years. Never had one come lose or load off center so I don`t spend a lot of time trying.   Others require forcing something to lock the film.   Would be nice if Nikor marked their reels.

 

Second choice Paterson Super System 4.    Take film again to be sure reel loads.   If someone got stabilizer or wetting agent on it,  it will never load, NEVER.  Hang film, use wetting agent from spray bottle.   Do not store with top on or you will stretch it causing a leak.     Cure is buy a new tank.     Use twisty stick first agitation only, invert after that .

 

Never use the metal tanks with black plastic lids.  They split and fog the film. They are sold as economy tanks !!  I used mine open in six step E6.  Real PITA,  but film is beautiful.  Can you imagine 6 open tanks in a water bath in total darkness for however long?   Contamination is too risky if you pour chemicals in & out of one tank.

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Never had any problems with plastic Kindermann lids. Also never had a problem with loading Paterson reels even when wetting agent used (which I always do). If you experience trouble loading then, perhaps, a faulty reel?

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