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Leica PRADOVIT 300 IR bulb


aviad

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Hi,

I need the projection not for projecting on the screen, only to film the slide with a camera.

I have the Philips 24V 250W 7748XHP bulb, but it's to bright, the Lumens there are 10000, and the camera can't adjust to that (Over Exposure).

I need a bulb with less Lumens, I'll say 3000 Lumens top.

Which bulb can fit the projector?

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Thanks peter,

Filter ND is an option,

but I prefer not using any filter and find the right bulb,

if I wont have a choice - I'll use the filter.

 

The other reasons for the less brighter bulb is to lower down the temperatures and the power consumption. I'm going to use the projector for thousands of hours.

 

because I'm not going to use the Leica as a projector to the wall, I take out the 2 lenses , and put some matt glass there, in order to dissolve the light, so I don't thing I need a bulb that fits exactly as the Philips.

I thought maybe on this one

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/halogen-lamps/halostar/halostar-24-v/index.jsp?productId=ZMP_57882

 

what do you think?

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What are you doing with the projector?

It might be possible to get a 150w alternative but you would have to look at the technical specs for the lamp and find one with the same fitting and with the filament in the same place.

If you take out the condensers and replace with matt glass I doubt you will get even illumination.

 

Gerry

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Thanks Gerry,

I'm building a stand containing slide projector (without the lenses) and DSLR (with Macro lens) and digitize slides.

just like this guy did

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnvhBXQrfzQ

 

the slides need only a small amount of light, the DSLR should do the rest with long exposure.

so I don't think I need exactly the same bulb as Leica ask for. I'm thinking also about Led illumination

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I did this with a Elmo slide projector and a Canon Powershot and later a DSLR  several years ago and posted a detailed description here but it seems to have been wiped out with the site upgrade.  I recommend a piece of thick white Plexiglas or plastic instead of frosted glass.  leave the heat absorbing glass in place but replace the front condenser with the Plexiglas.  I wrote some software to automate the process of advancing the projector and triggering the camera and then downloading the file directly to the computer. 

The blue box is a USB relay interface to run the projector.  Pretty much any slide projector will work as there are no optical properties left except the heat filter after you have modified the projector essentially converting it to a motorized light box.  A bright lamp is not a problem as it causes a high shutter speed to control any vibration.   I have transferred 10's of thousands of slides with this system and it works extremely well.  Good luck with your conversion.

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thanks peter,

I wrote a private message to you.

 

What is the advantage of the Plexiglas of Plastic over the frosted glass?

 

by the way, I used Acid glass, not sandblasting. the sandblasting projects spots on the slide.

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Plexiglas is colored all the way through the material and not on one surface.  Thicker material (1/4") then provides more diffusion and a more even light.  As for using a less bright lamp and longer exposure,  this will lead to more vibration.  use the standard lamp to enable a higher shutter speed, preferably 1/250th or above

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The problem with the standard lamp is that it's 250W with 10'000 Lumens, even with F/16 + 1/4000 speed the picture is over exposed...

I found some 150W lamp that works with the projector, but it's still over exposed.

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