Rangefinder Adjustment - iiig

[Jon Pop]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I'd like to get some advice from the seasoned Barnack Leica users out there concerning the adjustment of the RF mechanism in the iiig. I've seen various feeds, comments (here and elsewhere) on the methods, and I wanted to get clarity.  The one adjustment, of course, that I'm aware of is the adjustment that is behind the small screw by the viewfinder.  But the other adjustment - I've heard one say 'behind the slow shutter speed dial', while another involves removing one of the RF window retaining rings, and turning there. 

 

http://www.mediajoy.com/en/lrc/lbal/index.html

 

The above link is for the iiif. I'd want to know from iiig users if this outline is appropriate as well. There's step by step there, but given how much I love the camera, and how I'm only wanting to tackle reasonably simple things (yes, I know 'simple' is a relative term...I won't tackle the RF adjustment in my M cameras and messing with the cam roller, etc. that I've seen on the forum, for example). At hard infinity, vertical objects (like a tree or a power pole) are very slightly offset (to the right it would seem). It's only the absolute furthest objects visually. I'm using an old Elmar 50 f3.5 lens so of course critical focusing isn't like it is for my Summilux 1.4 Asph. All the same, it's something I'd like to get spot on.  I am thoroughly enjoying the iiig, arguably more than any other Leica I've owned.

 

I look forward to hearing Forum members' advice for me!

Best

Jon

[lleo]

Wow. I didn't know that site. Vielen Dank für den Link!

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[Jon Pop]

Hmm...no one seems to be stepping up to the question...I'm hoping someone will.....

[spydrxx]

I have a iif as well as some other brand LTM bodies. Although I never have had to make the vertival adjustment on the iif, I have done so on my other bodies as "fine tuning". Essentially it involves removing the chrome cover ring around the window, and then very carefully and slowly rotating the front element, which in most cases is in fact a narrow prism. What I found over time is this: 1) you want your camera mounted on a sturdy tripod; 2) my spanner was too big/clumsy to fit the holes around the circumference of the adjustment prism, so I took an old fork and removed 2 tines, and bent the remaining 2 at 90 degrees and spaced to fit into the holes; 3) even with my adjustment "tool" it is sometimes a bit trying, as the holes aren't deep, and I have to step in front of the camera to insert the tool, hold it in place and move to the rear of the camera to check the adjustment while looking thru the finder; 3) infinity is defined as 1000 x the focal length of the lens....I usually use an infinity object about 2-3 times this distance for good measure; 4) once the vertical adjustment is made, you need to recheck the horizontal adjustment, and you may need to go thru this process a couple of times. IMHO it is a PITA to do, but the results pay for themselves bigtime for me. I admit to being apprehensive the first time I did this, but it isn't rocket science. For a measure of comfort, before loading the camera up with film, I usually do a check of close distance focusing afterwards...mount the camera body on a straight long wooden 2x4, measure 4 ft (or 5 ft) from the focal plane & drill a little hole and insert a toothpick. standing upright. Focus on the toothpick and read the focus scale...it should match exactly the distance (or maybe a touch of leeway for DOF). Hope this gives you some ideas. I do touch up my horiz/vert adjustments semi annually if they need it...I find that if the bodies have been jarred in transport or use, they may need an interim touch up.

[Jon Pop]

Update - it works!  I tried it as outlined in the weblink I provided in the initial posting. Fortunately my rangefinder was only out a very tiny bit, at most extreme infinity, and horizontally (i.e. with the camera in the horizontal position, the vertical edge of a building a few kilometers away was slightly out). I removed the screw, slightly turned the tiny screw beneath (nice that it's a an actual screw unlike on the M cameras which require a specialized tool), and all is good.  Naturally I wouldn't jockey with this a lot, but it's nice to be able to make the slight tweaks myself if necessary and while out on the road. As  spydrxx points out, I think the other adjustment with the prism is slightly more complicated.