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Using M9 for photoshoot?


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So I was offered a gig to shoot a graduation ceremony that takes place at a lounge, indoors and outdoors in their patio. Both are very very dark.

I have an M9 and I also have an SF20 flash laying around somewhere. Haven't used it in forever, as I don't usually like flash photos.

 

Any suggestions, tips or ideas?

 

I'm thinking of turning down the job, but I could use the $$ and the exposure it would get me. But I don't see how I could get acceptable results in that kind of darkness, and with M9's low light performance....lol

 

Any ideas and comments are much appreciated,

 

thanks

 

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I'm thinking of turning down the job, but I could use the $$ and the exposure it would get me. But I don't see how I could get acceptable results in that kind of darkness, and with M9's low light performance....lol

 

 

Anybody worth their hire would know the answers to your question, and as you don't know the answer then for the sake of your potential client I think it is encumbant on you to turn the job down. It is possible to use the M9 under the circumstances you outline, but having a crash course in common sense still isn't fair on the customer.

 

Steve

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So I was offered a gig to shoot a graduation ceremony that takes place at a lounge, indoors and outdoors in their patio. Both are very very dark.

I have an M9 and I also have an SF20 flash laying around somewhere. Haven't used it in forever, as I don't usually like flash photos.

 

Any suggestions, tips or ideas?

 

I'm thinking of turning down the job, but I could use the $$ and the exposure it would get me. But I don't see how I could get acceptable results in that kind of darkness, and with M9's low light performance....lol

 

Any ideas and comments are much appreciated,

 

thanks

 

I only use my M9 for outdoor jobs and DSLR for indoors (with flash when required). I use my MM (without flash) both indoors and outdoors as it has the ISO to cope with it. I did try once to use M9 indoors as it was a naturally lighted conservatory (wedding) but not good enough. 

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Rent a Nikon D750.   Turn on highlight protection metering and Auto D Lighting.   Set for raw and "flat" mode.   I set mine for iso 6400.  You will need to photoshop them or use Nikon free  NX D to advantage the ADL and flat modes.  

 

 

Leica has lost it`s place for low light.  Sorry that`s how it is.   Leica is trying to use 1.4 lenses rather than better sensors which is fine for many pictures,  but 1.4 has no depth of focus.

 

Love my Leicas for travel and other work,  but when the lights dim,  I pick up the nikons.

 

The 50 1.4 current Summilux is a great lens.    Nothing wrong with flash if used as fill light or you use multiple large one OFF THE CAMERA.   You can try as high an iso as is acceptable to you, then go for a slow shutter to pick up ambient light and flash for the subject.   To get even better,  gel the flash to same color temp as ambient.  Or us camera Raw to change color balance in the background.  Use K shortcut to access the proper tools in camera raw and brush in daylight.

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Expectations Management.

 

15552147314_0cedd3df44_o.jpgSkate and Fun by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

 

Leica M9, ISO2500, Nikkor 8.5cm F2 wide-open, 1/125th second. Subject moved "A LOT" during exposure.

 

I have an easier time focusing the M9, M8, and M Monochrom in dim lighting than I do with the Nikon Df when the AF assist does not have enough light to lock on- especially for moving subjects. With the Df, ISO25,800 is amazingly clean- found using a 35mm focal length was best to keep focus.

 

What are the expectations of the "customer"? Do they want a pro photoshoot, or is it "best effort, don't want to pay the big bucks?" If the latter, shoot it for the experience and have a good time. If the relationship with them will be ruined because they expect too much, pass it up.

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Thanks guys, I appreciate your input!

 

Aside from the one reply that made it seem like someone got up on the wrong side of the bed, you guys are genuinely trying to help, and you have accomplished to do so. Thanks again! :)

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So what  are you going to do?

 

If I were a pro, for personal work I would use the M9 and probably be pleasantly surprised at the results, but for a paying customer? I would rent something like a D800 with a fast 50, a zoom and a flash, or at least an SF58D for the Leica.

Even an M240 will struggle, the M246 would be king, but then...

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Thanks guys, I appreciate your input!

 

Aside from the one reply that made it seem like someone got up on the wrong side of the bed, you guys are genuinely trying to help, and you have accomplished to do so. Thanks again! :)

 

The advice you refer to may not be what you want to hear but it is truthful. 

 

Taking some photos for a friend or relative is one thing but to accept a paid job for an important one off occasion deserves honesty from your part - do you have the expertise, the right gear, to deliver the goods? 

 

You need back ups - what if your M9 or flash pack up just as you're about to start the job? What if the client decided to sue - do you have the necessary liability insurance?

 

You might think this is OTT for a few snaps of some graduation thing, but if people are paying you and trusting you to deliver, you better had! 

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I've used an M9 many times for indoor jobs and it works great (though I like to think I know what I'm doing). I could do the same with any film or digital camera. Do people think that "indoor" photography only started with the advent of the Nikon D4 or some other high ISO digi-camera? :rolleyes:

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 Do people think that "indoor" photography only started with the advent of the Nikon D4 or some other high ISO digi-camera? :rolleyes:

Just shooting black bears in caves at midnight without flash...

 

How did we all survive in the dark ages of Kodacolor 400 and F1.5 lenses...

 

16012947278_fece0408b3_o.jpgkorea_Mortar_Sliderule by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

 

Somehow, we made it.

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I've used an M9 many times for indoor jobs and it works great (though I like to think I know what I'm doing). I could do the same with any film or digital camera. Do people think that "indoor" photography only started with the advent of the Nikon D4 or some other high ISO digi-camera? :rolleyes:

 

It's not so much a question of indoor photography here, rather the OP's apparent lack of knowledge / experience of using flash to get 'good' results, and pointing out the pitfalls of taking paid jobs that one isn't fully able for. That's the way I see it. 

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And now the content aware advertising is popping up ads to rent a D750 because of this thread!

 

Before I was getting a lot of ads for Infrared cameras from FLIR Systems.

 

Now That will take a picture of a Black bear in a cave at Midnight while the bear is hibernating in Winter, "FLIR Infrared". I toured their factory over 30 years ago.

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The advice you refer to may not be what you want to hear but it is truthful. 

 

Taking some photos for a friend or relative is one thing but to accept a paid job for an important one off occasion deserves honesty from your part - do you have the expertise, the right gear, to deliver the goods? 

 

You need back ups - what if your M9 or flash pack up just as you're about to start the job? What if the client decided to sue - do you have the necessary liability insurance?

 

You might think this is OTT for a few snaps of some graduation thing, but if people are paying you and trusting you to deliver, you better had! 

I agree - think twice about accepting a job you're uncertain of being able to deliver high quality results, especially if its for people you know.

 

Lesson learned from my early days - burned some possible bridges early and humiliated myself.  Then again, was a good lesson to learn - go for it - but as the #2 shooter.

 

Recently was asked off handedly "to bring a camera" to a casual friend's retirement party to "take a few snaps" - which was all I did with fine results.  The orgainzers were disappointed I didn't cover it as extensively as would the professinal they know me to be.  We all would have been better off if:

-They told me what they really wanted

-I declined

-They never asked at all! 

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I don't see how I could get acceptable results in that kind of darkness, and with M9's low light performance....lol

I think that you answered your own question. If you don't see how, then you probably won't. FWIW the M9's low light performance is more than adequate but if you don't think it is then you haven't got the experience to use it optimally under low light conditions. That said, I'd personally be more likely to use a dSLR for such a job anyway for a whole variety of reasons.

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I think the SF-20 can't do TTL-Flash with an M9, but it can do on flash Auto mode. For TTL-Flash you would need the SF-24D, SF-26 or SF-58 flash. I've used the M9P in some fairly dark situations with the 28mm/2 ASPH lens with decent results with ISO 640, and post processing to push the mid-tones and shadows up a bit in Lightroom afterward.

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And now the content aware advertising is popping up ads to rent a D750 because of this thread!

 

Before I was getting a lot of ads for Infrared cameras from FLIR Systems.

 

Now That will take a picture of a Black bear in a cave at Midnight while the bear is hibernating in Winter, "FLIR Infrared". I toured their factory over 30 years ago.

That means you'll have to install Ghostery...  ;)

 

https://www.ghostery.com/en/

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I think that there are quite a few considerations to this, some of which you can only answer for yourself. Speaking only of the equipment, foremost for me would be whether a rangefinder camera with fixed short focal length lenses is the best choice for this situation in any case. I think it is a mistake to only consider the high ISO performance though. The quality of the light (rather than the level), your exposure decisions and how you develop the images are at least important as the ISO used in my view.
If it's helpful, my personal experience with the M9 was that I was happy to use up to 1000ISO where needed (I would double that with my M and more with the Monochroms if I was using those).
 

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