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general purpose contrast filter for B&W film


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A quick contrast filter question for those of you experienced in B&W film. I have been shooting Tri-X and using a B+W #8 yellow filter. I leave the yellow filter on all the time. I would like to try TMAX 100 or 400 for smoother grain, increased sharpness, more mid tones, and a less contrasty look than Tri-X. I have my film developed and scanned at a pro lab here in Los Angeles.

 

My understanding is that TMAX has less contrast than Tri-X. Should I keep the yellow filter on if I switch to TMAX? Would the scans be too flat if I shoot without a filter? Or remove the filter and adjust contrast in post? I understand that some contrast will be lost if I shoot without the filter (e.g. losing tonal separation between similar tones that would have been separated had I used a filter). On the other hand, the filter requires an extra stop of exposure, which makes a difference when you are working with 100 or 400 speed film.

 

Or if TMAX is dramatically less contrasty than Tri-X, maybe try a yellow-orange filter?

 

I don't like to fiddle with filters and gear when out shooting, so I am looking to keep things simple. I shoot a mixture of travel and people/groups.

Edited by jmr237
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I have to agree with Pico on this one. I shoot a lot of TMax and really find no need for a contrast filter of any kind.

 

In fact, it is a great film if you enjoy using the older Leica lenses.

 

Kodak TMax and Rollei RPX 25 are my go to films for low contrast lenses.

Edited by ThePioneer
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  • 3 weeks later...

Your development time determines contrast, not the film. Since you have a lab do your developing it's difficult to say how the two will compare. That said, my experience with professional labs has resulted in negatives that print very well at grade 2 no matter what film I throw at them.

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I would suggest a YG filter independently from the film, I personally use a Y2 or a YG filter even with Neopan which is the most contrasty film I've ever tried.

 

This is a shot with neopan without filter:

 

1zoybt1.jpg

 

As you can see it's pretty nice but the sky results milk white...as usual.

 

28qtglj.jpg

 

This is Neopan with a Y2 filter, still different cameras, lens, light I know but IMO besides the increase in contrast the filters help harmonising the different highlight and shades in a shot.

 

Unfortunately I don't have two good pics with Tri-max to show the difference, but trust me! :p

Edited by Cuthbert
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Your development time determines contrast, not the film. Since you have a lab do your developing it's difficult to say how the two will compare. That said, my experience with professional labs has resulted in negatives that print very well at grade 2 no matter what film I throw at them.

 

Films  have different contrast characteristics. Consider a film's exposure line. T-grain films have an almost straight line response, while other films have a real curve. Digital enthusiasts should realize that when they tame contrast they are usually applying a curve to the contrast field - emulating old-time, real grain-like film tech. Development can change the rate (ratio) of contrast but not the curve.

 

Color filters were called color-contrast filters for a good reason. Indeed, if the sky is blue, yellow filter lowers the contrast ratio of blue to the rest. For fun, try using a blue filter on a contrasty scene when there is no blue sky in the frame. Depending upon the colors, the image will likely have astonishing 'pop', greater acutance or sharpness. Remember, we are not discussing the effect upon a digital sensor. Film. There is a huge difference.

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I was under the belief (maybe some marketing material or someone told me) that TMax had a lower response to blue, and therefore a yellow filter was not needed as much. My person experience confirmed this to me, but give it a shot and make your own decision. I don't use TMax anymore, no need for a yellow filter was the only thing I liked about it - it's just like having a free stop.

 

Cheers,

Michael

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I was under the belief (maybe some marketing material or someone told me) that TMax had a lower response to blue, and therefore a yellow filter was not needed as much. My person experience confirmed this to me, but give it a shot and make your own decision. I don't use TMax anymore, no need for a yellow filter was the only thing I liked about it - it's just like having a free stop.

 

Cheers,

Michael

I had the same impression. Shot a roll of Rollei RPX100 without filter and exchanged it with a TMAX100 and the blue was considerably darker, while the other colors did not change that much.

 

And regarding the contrast of BW film: In theory you can bring each BW film to each gradient. Underexpose for a few stops and keep it in the soup for 20 minutes and you will get a huge gradient with ever film, overexpose it and underdevelop it and you will get a line so flat that someone will call for a defibrillator. The only difference between the films in terms of contrast is the shape of toe and shoulder.

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