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Noctilux f/0.95 or Summilux 50 ASPH or both?


Jennifer

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Well I've had an interesting day playing with my new toy. ATM I can't see it as ever being my first choice 50, I think that'll always be the APO, and it's also too early to say whether I prefer it sufficiently over my Lux to keep it and sell the Lux. But it's very early days and I still have a lot to learn about how to use this lens to get from it it's true potential.

 

Worth mentioning if you take it out in anything like ordinary daylight and want to take any advantage of its speed, even at ISO 200, you have to have quite a strong ND filter, I found at time even 3 stops wasn't sufficient. Also expect a lot of vignetting wide open, I'd have to say it vignettes a whole lot more than I expected. Bokeh is very nice though I think I prefer it stopped down a notch, however the jury is still out on that.

 

One thing which does surprise me, and I'd be grateful to have the views of others with this lens and/or more technical knowledge of EXIF data, is that the EXIF often records f/0.95 incorrectly. I can understand f/1.0 for lack of a decimal place, but more often than not f/0.95 is shown as f/1.2, f/1.4 or even less. Stopped down EXIF accuracy improves but it's by no means always right. I'm sure there's some simple explanation and I'd love to hear it.

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As you probably know the aperture recorded to exif isn't from the actual aperture on the lens. It's from a small cell on the front of the camera body. Personally I find ALL my lenses hit and miss when it comes to EXIF aperture. It is possible the large size of the Noctilux blocks the cell even more than usual creating even less reliable readings.

 

Gordon

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Well I've had an interesting day playing with my new toy. ATM I can't see it as ever being my first choice 50, I think that'll always be the APO, and it's also too early to say whether I prefer it sufficiently over my Lux to keep it and sell the Lux. But it's very early days and I still have a lot to learn about how to use this lens to get from it it's true potential.

 

Worth mentioning if you take it out in anything like ordinary daylight and want to take any advantage of its speed, even at ISO 200, you have to have quite a strong ND filter, I found at time even 3 stops wasn't sufficient. Also expect a lot of vignetting wide open, I'd have to say it vignettes a whole lot more than I expected. Bokeh is very nice though I think I prefer it stopped down a notch, however the jury is still out on that.

 

One thing which does surprise me, and I'd be grateful to have the views of others with this lens and/or more technical knowledge of EXIF data, is that the EXIF often records f/0.95 incorrectly. I can understand f/1.0 for lack of a decimal place, but more often than not f/0.95 is shown as f/1.2, f/1.4 or even less. Stopped down EXIF accuracy improves but it's by no means always right. I'm sure there's some simple explanation and I'd love to hear it.

The aperture value in the EXIF is always just an approximation as there is no electrical contact between the lens and body to transmit the aperture that is being used. Basically the M takes one light reading through the lens, and then another from above the lens (note the small round sensor on the front of your M) and attempts to work out the aperture value based upon the difference in light intensity. It never guarantees total accuracy, and with an ND filter attached it will be even less accurate (for example a two stop ND filter on a lens set at 2.8 will confuse the camera into thinking the lens is actually set to 5.6).

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Well I've had an interesting day playing with my new toy. ATM I can't see it as ever being my first choice 50, I think that'll always be the APO, and it's also too early to say whether I prefer it sufficiently over my Lux to keep it and sell the Lux. But it's very early days and I still have a lot to learn about how to use this lens to get from it it's true potential.

 

I like your style!

Congrats and enjoy...  What's not to enjoy??

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Nocti at f/0.95, the DoF so shallow that the face is in focus whereas the hair isn't

 

 

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Nocti at f/0.95, the DoF so shallow that the face is in focus whereas the hair isn't

 

Nice picture and wonderful bokeh!! It's a dream-like picture, the same blurred backgrounds you've in mind seconds before waking up. I like it very much.

When I first bought the Nocti 0.95 I was intrigued by this effect but I didn't know how to well balance it. You did it right, to me, at very beginning. Congratulation!

 

Sara

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Nocti at f/0.95, the DoF so shallow that the face is in focus whereas the hair isn't

 

Might I suggest that you compare the Summilux and Noctilux at f1.4 down to see whether you think there is much difference. 

 

Next, whether you really are into zero-depth-of-field photography.  Your comment that the whole face isn't in focus is exactly the issue for me. Personally, I find portraits at such thin DOF often to be quite visually jarring and unrealistic as I don't want the cornea in focus but the earlobe and tip of the nose out of focus, nor do I want the subject to look like a 2-D cut-out against a blurred background.

 

I have a 1.0/50 Noctilux (in addition to a 1.4/50 Summilux ASPH FLE and 2.8/50 Elmarit-M) which I consider to be my 'art' 50. The aberations are exactly what make it so 'arty'  :rolleyes: but I rarely shoot it faster than1.4-2.0 as I like just a bit more DOF, but the 1.0 is there if I need it.  The OOF rendering is still gorgeous.  The lens is spectacular on the Monochrom, and mutes the M240 colours beautifully. If I was to keep only one 50mm lens it would be the Summilux (I am still considering an 50 APO-Summicron but am in no rush).

 

If, once the novelty of the Noctilux at 0.95 wears off but you still use 0.95 frequently then the lens is worth keeping and unload the Summilux. If not, dump the Noctilux. Perhaps you may then want to play with a 1.0 Noctilux or a 2.8/50 Elmarit-M.

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Might I suggest that you compare the Summilux and Noctilux at f1.4 down to see whether you think there is much difference. 

 

Next, whether you really are into zero-depth-of-field photography.  Your comment that the whole face isn't in focus is exactly the issue for me. Personally, I find portraits at such thin DOF often to be quite visually jarring and unrealistic as I don't want the cornea in focus but the earlobe and tip of the nose out of focus, nor do I want the subject to look like a 2-D cut-out against a blurred background.

 

I have a 1.0/50 Noctilux (in addition to a 1.4/50 Summilux ASPH FLE and 2.8/50 Elmarit-M) which I consider to be my 'art' 50. The aberations are exactly what make it so 'arty'  :rolleyes: but I rarely shoot it faster than1.4-2.0 as I like just a bit more DOF, but the 1.0 is there if I need it.  The OOF rendering is still gorgeous.  The lens is spectacular on the Monochrom, and mutes the M240 colours beautifully. If I was to keep only one 50mm lens it would be the Summilux (I am still considering an 50 APO-Summicron but am in no rush).

 

If, once the novelty of the Noctilux at 0.95 wears off but you still use 0.95 frequently then the lens is worth keeping and unload the Summilux. If not, dump the Noctilux. Perhaps you may then want to play with a 1.0 Noctilux or a 2.8/50 Elmarit-M.

 

Over the next few weeks I'll be comparing the Nocti with the Lux and if I don't keep both I remain open minded as to which one will go. I'll certainly want to try both lenses on my new Monochrom when I get it and won't be making any decisions before then.

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Keep all three.  Don't be swayed by the upcomming Monochrome, bodies come and go but it's the lens you'll regret selling.  

 

I may well keep all three, from past experience, and as you say, I tend to regret selling Leica glass after the event.

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Hope you enjoy your Noctilux and keep all three lenses.  I personally adore the rendering of my 50 mm f1.4 Asph Summilux where I can sense the textures of stone, wood, fresh foliage etc besides the wonderful balance of sharpness and bokeh that the lens offers.  

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

I've been offered a very nice Noctilux f/0.95 and, intrigued by the results I've seen from this lens, I'm tempted. Since I bought the APO-Summicron 50 that tends to be my 50 of choice over my Summilux 50 which now only seems to come out when I feel I'll likely need the extra speed. So, I'm thinking, maybe I should sell the Summilux and get the Noctilux instead? I know they're very different lenses, but I ask myself if I get the Noctilux is there much point in keeping three 50's? OTOH, having done and regretted it in the past, I'm rather disinclined to sell Leica glass. There again, unless I fall head over heels in love with it, once the novelty has worn off maybe the size and weight of the Noctilux will relegate it's use to those few days when I'm in the mood for a weight training session?

Thank you for posting this..............The Noctilux 0.95 is without a doubt (if you buy it) the best Leica lens you will ever have, you will love it, you will never take it off your camera, and anyone else that disagrees with this have never owned one, and if they did they didn't know how to use it.

Mine is always either on the MM or m240 and soon to have a7ii.................Buy it now while you have the chance and let the other inferior 50's go :)

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Thank you for posting this..............The Noctilux 0.95 is without a doubt (if you buy it) the best Leica lens you will ever have, you will love it, you will never take it off your camera, and anyone else that disagrees with this have never owned one, and if they did they didn't know how to use it.

Mine is always either on the MM or m240 and soon to have a7ii.................Buy it now while you have the chance and let the other inferior 50's go :)

 

Well I don't think of my APO-Summicron 50 as "inferior" just different.

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Well I don't think of my APO-Summicron 50 as "inferior" just different.

Totally agree, it is certainly not inferior. Each is like a great bottle of fine wine. They might come from the same vineyard but their characteristics are slightly different.

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