Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 24, 2015 Share #1 Posted April 24, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Guys I have recently got into shooting pretty girls (Models). And as one does, I have been using my Nikon gear with the Profoto B1 heads and getting some fantastic results. I am planning another photo shoot this time home but this time I want to grab a few shots with my Leica gear. So that I don't look a complete twat at the photo shoot do I set the M Shutter speed to the flash logo on the shutter dial and then adjust the exposure with ISO and aperture or can I set the shutter lower say at 60 if say the flash dial logo is 125? Any help would be much appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 24, 2015 Posted April 24, 2015 Hi Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS, Take a look here Question about Flash sync speed on the M240. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted April 24, 2015 Share #2 Posted April 24, 2015 You can set the shutterspeed lower. But why don’t you try out the setup first before you start? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 24, 2015 Share #3 Posted April 24, 2015 I will Jaasp I was just trying to understand how the M sync speed works compared to my other gear Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 24, 2015 Share #4 Posted April 24, 2015 It will sync at any speed up to and including the flash symbol on the speed dial. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 24, 2015 Share #5 Posted April 24, 2015 It will sync at any speed up to and including the flash symbol on the speed dial.have you ever tried the M system with flash. I have a mate that uses his with s Leica flash but never heard of anyone using 3rd party off camera strobes Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 24, 2015 Share #6 Posted April 24, 2015 I use them with a slew of older flashes. Just don’t expect TTL with non-Leica flashes. Manual settings, or A settings. Isn’t it simpler to use the SF 24D (or any small flash) as a trigger for a slave setup?. The forum is full of threads with people using studio setups. I wonder if William Palank’s thread about his trip to Ethiopia with a Broncolor set is still on the forum. The results were amazing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 24, 2015 Share #7 Posted April 24, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Found it. Unfortunately William is no longer with us. http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/148579-m9-in-ethiopia-3-images/?hl=ethiopia Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted April 24, 2015 Share #8 Posted April 24, 2015 Neil - if you are new to using a flash, I think if you put yourself into a serious setting in which a "client" is relying on your professionalism, things may not go as well as they could. Plus, you will lose some of your "Leica magic" with the flash. I would suggest trying to use the natural light (yes, I mean either go outside or make use of natural light coming through windows) and let your wonderful creamy lenses work their magic and PP skills make it all sing. Rather than trying to figure out on the job the appropriate angle and intensity of an artificial light source (I can tell you that it aint easy), you can use your creativity to place your model in various natural light sources. You can always use a reflector to get a nice pop in the luminance of your model's face (these things are great). In your situation, I really think this should be enough. You will feel more comfortable and have more freedom to use different natural light sources and you will get more magic out of your style of shooting wide open. Just my two cents... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sml_photo Posted April 24, 2015 Share #9 Posted April 24, 2015 I use them with a slew of older flashes. Just don’t expect TTL with non-Leica flashes. Manual settings, or A settings. Isn’t it simpler to use the SF 24D (or any small flash) as a trigger for a slave setup?. The forum is full of threads with people using studio setups. I wonder if William Palank’s thread about his trip to Ethiopia with a Broncolor set is still on the forum. The results were amazing. I hadn't thought of that...will the SF 24D trigger other brands? Will that allow TTL functionality with my Canon flashes, for example. I asked B&H for an option for triggering off camera flash (albeit, in manual mode) and they suggested Vello Freewave: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1040166-REG/vello_rfw_lr_vello_freewave_fusion_lr.html I am on the verge of ordering and trying that setup. Not too expensive...worth a try. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewDD Posted April 24, 2015 Share #10 Posted April 24, 2015 My experience (there is a thread I started about here somewhere) is that, with studio flash, it doesn't quite synch at 1/180th. You will probably get a shadow down one side of the image. Best to set the camera to 1/125th. The speed you select won't have any effect on the ISO you need - the flash is much faster than that anyway so the sensor is getting the same light whether you are at 1/125, 1/60th or even 1/4. I once shot an entire set at 1/4 after I'd knocked the dial, and it was fine apart from some odd coloured shadows! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wparsonsgisnet Posted April 24, 2015 Share #11 Posted April 24, 2015 I agree only in part with the demurral regarding flash and Leica. While flash flattens the image out (but also sharpens edges at the same time), this effect can be redressed by using a second (or additional) flash(es) at the side to create some dimensionality (without losing the edge sharpness). The ability to stop movement with flash has its own appeal. Since I shoot dance, freezing motion is important to me. Neil, you don't mention if you use flash triggers. I use the YongNuo radios and must shoot at 1/125 instead of the designated maximum of 1/180. The triggers add a delay to the process and it results in a dark shadow at the top of the frame. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted April 24, 2015 Share #12 Posted April 24, 2015 I don't know if Neil knows the first thing about using a flash in a studio setting. But I do know that he is good at getting great results shooting his subjects (which are not in motion) with his noctilux wide open. Ergo, WTF does he need a flash for when he can use a little creativity and make use of natural light to get that real Leica glow with his noctilux!!?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 24, 2015 Share #13 Posted April 24, 2015 Neil, you don't mention if you use flash triggers. I use the YongNuo radios and must shoot at 1/125 instead of the designated maximum of 1/180. The triggers add a delay to the process and it results in a dark shadow at the top of the frame. Bill Yes I use the Profoto TTL-Nikon for my Nikon gear and will buy the Profoto Air Remote when I get home to use with my Leica M and Sony a7ii..................just trying to figure if the air remote trigger will mount on the a7ii as I believe the Sony hot shoe is a funky size Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 24, 2015 Share #14 Posted April 24, 2015 Hay Adam I am not a complete novice with studio lighting; 6 months ago I bought the Profoto B1 heads and various modifiers and rented models for photo shoots in and around KL and have had a wee bitty of success............... you can see some of my pictures HERE These were all taken with Nikon but as you already know I have Leica and want to try my hand at this kind of stuff with my M so that was the reason for my first post. I agree with your earlier post about using natural light and I am always looking for opportunities with that. Here are two pictures from my most recent shoot that I haven't had time to upload to my website. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/244147-question-about-flash-sync-speed-on-the-m240/?do=findComment&comment=2804263'>More sharing options...
pico Posted April 24, 2015 Share #15 Posted April 24, 2015 Bill Yes I use the Profoto TTL-Nikon for my Nikon gear and will buy the Profoto Air Remote when I get home to use with my Leica M and Sony a7ii..................just trying to figure if the air remote trigger will mount on the a7ii as I believe the Sony hot shoe is a funky size All shoes, hot or not, have the same dimensions. The contacts might differ. I'm not sure you are on the right track. The Profoto Air Remote does not support TTL on any camera. You can use the slaves in your lights, triggered by the SF 24D, but not with TTL. Leica's TTL flash uses a pre-flash which will cause the slaved lights to fire before the Leica's main flash fires. It would only cause a mess. Repeating from the above, feel free to use 1/125th for synchronizing. Us the SF24D on manual. Shoot plenty of test shots on a dummy or a roommate. You will nail several presets before you have to work with the model. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted April 24, 2015 Share #16 Posted April 24, 2015 Stunning and no respect intended it is just that if you don't need flash with your Leica snd nocti why bother. Strap the nocti on your MM with a yellow or orange filter for that pop in the skin tones and your golden, for example Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 24, 2015 Share #17 Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) All shoes, hot or not, have the same dimensions. From another forum. Hey,I received a Profoto B1 today and the Air Remote - Canon TTL version.I mate brought around his Sony A7 and we wanted to test the combo together but seemed to have trouble with the Sony and the Profoto remote.It's the first time I've had a Profoto Air remote, before I've had PW's, and it seemed very stiff getting it on my Canon hot shoes, so maybe the remote itself is to blame.However, I couldn't get the remote on the Sony. I think it's due to the hot shoe which, if you google the A7® hot shoe, has an extra bar across the front due to the accessory port.This means the Profoto Air can't properly get into the hot shoe, most cameras only have the slidey bits on the side so the remote can get in fine, but with the Sony it can only get 90% of the way in and subsequently won't fire.I tried some other flashes I only, I only had cheap/easy ones lying around, and they too wouldn't get fully in the hot shoe but would at least trigger.Alas - the Profoto Air remote won't get in far enough to trigger - ergo seems to me to not be compatible with the Sony A7® line. This is a big big shame as I was hoping to use the A7R with the B1's.Anyone come across this? Is there a trick to the Air remote I'm not getting? (It wasn't locked in case anyone asks) Or is it just not a viable combo? . . I am not looking for TTL with either the M or Sony I am happy shooting in manual I just want to buy ONE trigger that fits all.........Profoto already confirmed that the Air Remote works fine on the Leica I am still waiting to see if it works on the Sony Shoe which apparently it doesn't according to the thread above. Edited April 24, 2015 by NDWgolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wparsonsgisnet Posted April 24, 2015 Share #18 Posted April 24, 2015 You might consider the YongNuo remotes. They are very inexpensive and work really well with the M. I bot them after they were recommended elsewhere in the Forum. Highly seconded! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdriceman Posted April 24, 2015 Share #19 Posted April 24, 2015 the flash is much faster than that anyway so the sensor is getting the same light whether you are at 1/125, 1/60th or even 1/4. I once shot an entire set at 1/4 after I'd knocked the dial, and it was fine apart from some odd coloured shadows! Not necessarily. The shutter speed will have an effect on the background/ambient lighting that gets through. If you're shooting against a strongly backlit scene you can darken the background (I.e. Knock down the backlighting) by increasing shutter speed while using the flash to illuminate your subject. Shutter speed has little effect on the flash lighting coming through, but has a great effect on the ambient light coming through. And using a 1/4s shutter speed, unless all your lighting is coming from the flash is an invitation for motion blur and camera shake, even when using flash. In addition to the above comments, I would suggest Neil get a flash meter and a handbook on using flash. Then practice some if he wants to use flash with the M. You can do a lot to control lighting by understanding how shutter speed and aperture affect a scene illuminated by flash. The basics are not on a steep learning curve... Perfection is a different story. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted April 24, 2015 Share #20 Posted April 24, 2015 Why spend more money on a wireless remote? Does not the Profoto B1 have a slave port? (It does). . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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