External light meter: Which one should i get?

[ironringer]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

It may sound like heresy to veteran meter users, but with my IIIf and IIIg I use a Canon S90 (small, quality digital camera) as my meter, in Program mode with the flash turned off.

First I set the "film" ISO, then it's easy (a ring function on the S90) to set the zoom's focal length to be the same as the screwmount Leica lens I am using. Then I take a digital picture (the same as the film shot I will take) and review its exposure parameters, particularly the aperture and shutter speed chosen by the very accurate "exposure meter" in the S90 camera. Then I transfer those settings (or the equivalents if I want to use different settings) to my film camera and shoot a properly-exposed picture, every time. I bracket (+/- one stop or speed) for unusual conditions.

With the S90 I can zoom in (effectively like a spot meter) for digital readings in small zones, if I wish. The digital picture doesn't even have to be in focus when using slow shutter speeds - it's the exposure settings I want. I don't have to actually take the digital picture - the chosen aperture and shutter speed are visible on the LCD screen when I half-press the button. So I can move the LCD image around until I find the target I want, and easily take its exposure readings.

This "digital metering" process doesn't take more time than fiddling with a meter (adjusting, aiming, reading, transferring), the small digital camera is about the same size as a good meter, and it results in excellent exposures for every shot. As a bonus I get a digital version of my film picture, with recorded exposure parameters, to have as a reference later when reviewing the film scans.

Does anyone else use this simple "digital metering" process?

[NJH]

Lucky your not having to compensate for the transmission loss of that cameras lens, which is often poor on compacts, or having to compensate for how that camera meters. The Fuji X100 for example overexpose on purpose compared my old M8.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[wattsy]

This "digital metering" process doesn't take more time than fiddling with a meter (adjusting, aiming, reading, transferring), the small digital camera is about the same size as a good meter,

 

I wouldn't presume to tell you what you should be doing but I cannot imagine how using a digital camera to obtain a light reading could be as quick as just pulling out a meter and taking a quick incident or reflective reading.

[John Z. Goriup]

To address the title of this thread directly, I have found the Seconic series of spot meters to be the most accurate, useful, flexible and reliable external meters on the market. I'm currently using the L 758 DR with uncannily accurate results for the rare occasions when I just don't think my camera's exposure meter is out of it's element, or if I wish to confirm / double-check the camera's exposure determination.

 

It does so much more and has so much broader applicability ( works with any format, sensor size, on-board exposure-metering arrangement, lens, etc. ) than having to configure a seperate camera body to fit the situation in which you find yourself, and then having to transfer all the settings to your manual Leicas.

 

JZG

[rakuba]

I have an ancient Gossen Lunasix which I got s/h about 35 years ago, I also acquired a tele extension for it which gives a choice of 15 or 7.5 degree field of view, I used it for many years with an old Pentax S3 and with a variety of 5X4's both indoors and outdoors, first class.

I have also compared it with the meter in my M6, it is within a cat's whisker as we say, but I dont feel the need to carry it around with me.

If you can get something like that it should be just fine.

 

 

Martin

[IkarusJohn]

For me, exposure only becomes an issue when I rely on the built in centre weighted meter in the camera.

 

You can look for (or put) neutral grey in your image to get an accurate reading, you can use a complex computer meter like a Gossen 1 degree spot meter, and let it calculate zone exposures, or you can become best friends with your in camera meter and anticipate what it's doing for you. The last is almost certainly the easiest, and one to get accustomed to. But you are relying on reflected values, and provided you haven't blown highlights or lost detail in the shadows, you will fix it in post.

 

I'm enjoying my M3 and SWC more and more for a number of reasons. The first is that ambient light (that falls on the subject) doesn't actually change that much when I go for a walk. So, provided I take a reasonable reading in the light that falls on the subject, I can take one reading and put the meter in my pocket. You don't need to run around with you meter around your neck like some extra on a movie set (important as I'm sure those people are).

 

By exposing for ambient light, you're not screwing with values based on what's in your image - your blacks should be black, and whites white, provided the EV values are within a range your sensor or film can handle. Sometimes, you do need to bracket, or adjust, but that isn't a hassle.

 

So for me, simplest incident meter is best (Lumu is working for me at the moment). You're only really considering two values - ambient light and ISO setting. They're actually not that hard or complex (though many meters make them that way), and they don't change that much in the course of a walk.

 

Cheers

John

[cwolffensperger]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I'm using a voigtlander VCII light meter on my M3, and it's actually always spot on. Usually I take a quick reading regularly on the street and set my camera accordingly, so I'm ready to shoot. For more precise readings (portraits and such) I put my subject in the 90 mm frame lines, or in difficult lighting situations I also take an incident reading close up. And average the selection. But for street photography occasional readings are enough. And it's light, small and easy to detach if you want to use an external finder.

 

I've also got a leicameter MR, but I hardly use it. The VCII is easy enough and gives better readings in my opinion. Also I find the Leicameter harder to slip off and on the camera.

[k_g_wolf ✝]

Another vote for the VC II- lightmeter from me. A pretty reliable and fast metering piece of gear.

 

Regards,

GEORG

[steve_hoffman]

To address the title of this thread directly, I have found the Seconic series of spot meters to be the most accurate, useful, flexible and reliable external meters on the market. I'm currently using the L 758 DR with uncannily accurate results for the rare occasions when I just don't think my camera's exposure meter is out of it's element, or if I wish to confirm / double-check the camera's exposure determination.

 

It does so much more and has so much broader applicability ( works with any format, sensor size, on-board exposure-metering arrangement, lens, etc. ) than having to configure a seperate camera body to fit the situation in which you find yourself, and then having to transfer all the settings to your manual Leicas.

 

JZG

 

The SEKONIC is almost $700.00 US. That's a lot of Kale for a light meter.

[IkarusJohn]

L-398A Studio Delux II, 41/2 stars, $218 at B&H is a better deal. Lumu €149 even better (for its size).

[John Z. Goriup]

The SEKONIC is almost $700.00 US. That's a lot of Kale for a light meter.

 

Yes it is, but if that's the view you wish to apply, then isn't ( zum Beispiel ) 7 or $ 8,000 for a new M / MM / M-P and $ 5,450 for a new silver 35mm Summilux FLE also a lot of Kale for a camera and a lens.

 

I'm on shaky ground assuming ( extremely risky under pretty much all circumstances ) that you're using Leica M equipment, and I further assume that most owners of Leica M bodies and lenses own them because they are convinced - I know that's why I use Leica Ms and a selction of their latest glass - that they simply cannot buy 35mm format, full frame combinations that are capable of delivering superior image quality. I further submit that if one is committed to digital Ms, he will stumble upon situations where any M's camera meter will simply not deliver the optimum exposure. I may be far out of line in my thinking on this point, but I strongly believe that the best photographs are always those that require the least post-processing. This meter is only one of several "support" items chosen for the cameras / lenses I carry and use on certain occasions to aid me in producing the highest percentage of images which require a minimum of "fixing in Photoshop".

 

JZG

[plasticman]

L-398A Studio Delux II, 41/2 stars, $218 at B&H is a better deal. Lumu €149 even better (for its size).

 

Not wanting to divert the thread, but I'm curious about the Lumu. I currently use a Sekonic 308s and love most things about it, but what makes me wonder about getting the Lumu is:

 

- easier to do aperture priority (without tricking around)

- size (always have my iPhone with me anyway)

- ability to add notes to each metering*

 

It's the last item I'm most unclear about: Lumu mention it on their site, but don't really cover it in any detail. I'd like to be able to record at least some of the decisions I make when metering, so that I learn something over time. Have you tried the note-taking function? If so, how well does it work?

 

I'm naturally assuming that the Lumu meter gives accurate results.

[IkarusJohn]

I haven't. I'm afraid, I'm a bit of the kind who hits things till they work. If it isn't intuitive, I tend to say fuck it, and move on.

 

That's probably why Sonys haven't worked for me, and Leicas have. I will have a look for you tomorrow.

[Guest JonathanP]

I'm naturally assuming that the Lumu meter gives accurate results.

 

It gives reliable results once calibrated. My son & I both have Lumu's; mine out of the box reads -0.7 stop out and his about -0.3. The app has a calibration slider that once set appears to give consistent readings. I calibrate mine against my L758 & Gossen Profisix (my favourite meter for its user interface but rather bulky).

 

Jonathan

(I need to try out the note taking feature of the Lumu)

[McGirton]

Voigtlander VCII hands down.

[mikebidwell]

Ive got a Leica M6 and I reckon I must be the odd one out HaHa :D However for the small amount of times I use a light meter, I've still got my Weston Master with its Invercone.

 

I did toy with the idea of getting a new meter a few years ago but thought it better to put the cash towards something which I really needed. The only thing I have had done was I had the IV serviced about three years ago.

 

Best wishes

 

Mike

[BjarniM]

Thanks for all your replies and opinions. I will take a closer at the light meters suggested in this thread.

[01af]

My favourite is the Minolta Auto-Meter II. The self-rotating scale is soo cool ...

[Armin4]

I'm using LxMeter app for Android OS. With its add-on sensor you get a powerful and cost effective light meter / flash meter.

 

Armin

 

LxMeter now supports also spot metering (

)

[Advertisement]

Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[sc_rufctr]

I've had this for years... Great meter and it's "Made in Germany" 

 

(that's my hand)

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!