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Split Grade Printing Technique


Michael Hiles

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I made an exhibition print today – it will be a Christmas gift for my son-in-law, who specifically requested it (what a fine fellow).

 

For the first time I used the split grade technique on Ilford Multigrade IV FB – with very fine results. I made a test strip using the #5 filter to determine the exposure for the shadow details (25 sec was optimum). I then made another test strip with 25 sec through the #5 filter, plus test times through the #00 filter (9 sec was optimal to give great highlights). Test strips are quickly washed and dried for 30 sec in the microwave to see the dry down effect.

 

The nice thing about this technique is that the contrast comes out perfectly as inherent in the process, and the number of test strips in minimized.

 

The negative was excellent from the start and no additional burning or dodging was required. The print is beautiful – loads of shadow detail and rich blacks, and detail in the almost paper white highlights.

 

The technique is simple and logical. I believe that the Heiland Splitgrade automates the process, but it is quite expensive (in my terms anyway). The units from RH Design also do the same thing, for a little less money, but still not cheap. There is a short video on Youtube.

 

I am going on about this to share a great experience, and recommend it to one and all. But of course you have to use film... And you need to know what a good print looks like.

Edited by Michael Hiles
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I recently printed using a split grade technique for the first time and was amazed at what a powerful tool of darkroom manipulation it is when used in conjunction with basic dodging and burning!

 

This mirrors my experience. An outstanding approach.

 

I'm presently looking at the dry mounted, matted and framed silver print from the first post above. It really is terrific. Proud to sign my name to it.

Edited by Michael Hiles
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  • 3 weeks later...

 

<snip>...I made a test strip using the #5 filter to determine the exposure for the shadow details (25 sec was optimum). I then made another test strip with 25 sec through the #5 filter, plus test times through the #00 filter (9 sec was optimal to give great highlights). Test strips are quickly washed and dried for 30 sec in the microwave to see the dry down effect...<snip>

 

 

 

...I'm confused - two test strips through the #5 filter?

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...I'm confused - two test strips through the #5 filter?

 

You have to test for what will actually happen in the final print. The first test strip tests for the shadows with the 5 filter. Since the final print will be a combination of two exposures, your highlights test strip needs the 5 exposure first, because that is what will happen when you make the final print.

 

You are building up the image with a combination of hard and soft light. If you tested with the 00 filter without first laying the ground with the correct exposure through the 5, the final exposure would be an incorrect mix or at least unpredictable, because the test procedures were not the same as the final print procedure. The final print's highlights would not look like the 00 test, because you did not do the same thing for the final print (5 exposure PLUS 00 exposure) as you did for the tests.

 

As an old teacher of mine said "Different is not the same".

 

Hope this is clear.

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You have to test for what will actually happen in the final print. The first test strip tests for the shadows with the 5 filter. Since the final print will be a combination of two exposures, your highlights test strip needs the 5 exposure first, because that is what will happen when you make the final print.

 

You are building up the image with a combination of hard and soft light. If you tested with the 00 filter without first laying the ground with the correct exposure through the 5, the final exposure would be an incorrect mix or at least unpredictable, because the test procedures were not the same as the final print procedure. The final print's highlights would not look like the 00 test, because you did not do the same thing for the final print (5 exposure PLUS 00 exposure) as you did for the tests.

 

As an old teacher of mine said "Different is not the same".

 

Hope this is clear.

 

...thanks for the breakdown, Michael - I have never used this technique and will certainly be looking to giving it a try. Again, thanks.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I found a very interesting link on Split Grade printing. Split Grade Printing the Ilford Way | Darkroom Dave. Dave in the video has some sophisticated equipment in his darkroom (2 channel automated timer, very bright enlarger that makes his exposures quite short), but the basic ideas and techniques are there, and he adds some subtle adjustments that add another dimension to the power of the process.

Edited by Michael Hiles
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You simply take the (color head) dial for 00 and 5. But with any color head you can not make filter 5, maybe 4 is possible so the effect will be limited. You need a VC head or any seperate 00 and 5 filter.

 

Or a Heiland LED light even combined with Split Grade:

 

 

 

http://shop.fotohuisrovo.nl/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=506&language=en

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On a V35 colour head I would dial up white light and use the individual filters. I think that getting the full effect of the #5 filter is important to fully utilize the design of the VC paper. The Heiland units would be ideal, but the are not cheap. I use the filters on my focomat 1c. Works perfectly - just slightly less automatic. RHDesigns in the UK also make excellent timers and darkroom meters that easily lend themselves to split grade printing, and they are less pricey than the Heiland stuff. But the manual approach works perfectly. The key is in gaining a little experience and applying some artistic judgment.

Edited by Michael Hiles
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  • 1 month later...

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