colint544 Posted June 15, 2015 Share #141 Posted June 15, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Loving the thread. Agree that using a mechanical Leica is a far more rewarding experience than shooting a digital one. Thinking of selling my M Monochrom, as I barely use it these days. Here is a shot I took a couple of weeks ago - Leica M5, 28mm Summicron ASPH (fitted with a B&W red filter), and Ilford FP4. Best wishes all, Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 15, 2015 Posted June 15, 2015 Hi colint544, Take a look here I think I want to try shoot film.... I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
colint544 Posted June 15, 2015 Share #142 Posted June 15, 2015 Forgot to attach the file. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/236590-i-think-i-want-to-try-shoot-film/?do=findComment&comment=2835460'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted June 16, 2015 Share #143 Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) Hi Gary, I actually thought for whatever reason the mod deleted my messages I was getting confused... You know what, I got my head around it all week-end and Im making moves now! The first roll was so so....the second didnt came out at all, lost all the pictures! Then I read a bunch of pages and stuff and I finally understood I was using too much Developer. So this morning I processed 2 rolls together, came out pretty good I was happy with the results but a lot of scratches on the negatives...I just had a look at the Paterson squeegee and I can see they not smooth at all - I wont use it anymore! Tonight I developed 2 more rolls...and decided NOT to use the squeegee...nice, not a single scratch BUT plenty of spot from water Can you guys reccomend me the best option to dry the film? Should I buy a better squeegee? Also, this would be a bit OT but I didnt wanted to open too many threads...I recently bought a Olympus T32 flash which works well on Leica....well, i thought it was! I bought it in a shop where they run out of Leica's flash but they reccomended this Olympus, it was cheaper and it bend, so I can bounce it. I tryied first on my M8 to see a quick result: I like the fact I can bounce it but is really really strong. And when I mean strong I mean I have to shoot at f/11 & shutter speed 250th/s for whatever reason it wouldnt fire anythire higher than 250/s). Anyway, I had the chance to put it on my M4-2...and I kept in mind to keep the shutter at 250/s....and ALL pictures came out like this: Crazy, isnt it? it feels like the shutter may be too quick or too slow for it? Does anyone experience this and could tell me how to get around it? Other than that, I was getting really frustrated loosing those rolls but now Im really happy Im getting to know how to develop my own film, I know there is a huge amount of things to improve but I feel like I'm gettin into it! And it will be a relief to stop wasting money developing all those films.... Here's a shot I think it came out good from my second batch: [url=https://flic.kr/p/s5ESmV] oh, last question....Can I re-use the developer?? or do I have to do a fresh mix everytime? Many thanks to all the input you guys putting through those pages, I'm sure they will come back handy for people starting with the same things Nice Jonny I like "natural" grain on these two pictures. If you are interested , here my recent answer about the Sebastian's question : MP film or MM ? http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/246300-monochrom-or-mp-film-help-needed/?p=2834853 http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/246300-monochrom-or-mp-film-help-needed/?p=2834932 Thanks for reading Best Henry Jonny, I always use a new and fresh developper for each film , but you can re-use the developper may be used 2 or 3 times. The development time is extended with an old developer. When it oxidizes ie becomes colored it must be discarded and not use. Do not forget to properly secure a good conservation of the negative with a good fixer like "Ilford rapid fixer" , I leave in fixer during 10 minutes. Edited June 16, 2015 by Doc Henry 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonel Posted June 18, 2015 Share #144 Posted June 18, 2015 (edited) If you want to ease into film shooting try a new or second hand M7 as it has aperture priority. if that's a bit expensive then a M6, M6 TTL or M5 are the next choice. They are harsher to use as you need to set the aperture and speed. There is no aperture priority. However IMHO they really teach you to understand speed and aperture, to the point that you will become familiar with what is needed or a particular light level and will only use the light meter to fine tune. If you love any of the above you are ready for the ultimate film camera, the MP Personally, I would not recommend a M4, M4P, M3, M2 or M-A for your first film camera, as you will need a light meter and it might put you off, based on the amount of work for each shot. If you eventually get so good that you can judge the light, you could of course get an M-A. but for me the MP is the most beautiful photographic experience. However I am glad I didn't start with it. I had a M7 and digital Leica's before. Now I can really enjoy the MP and its so fast to use as I anticipate 95% of the setting before I take a picture. One nice thing about film is that once a film is loaded you no longer need to think about adjusting ISO, as you are done with that. Its lovely being able to choose different films and see the result. Like having an interchangeable sensor every 24 or 36 shots. You can also experiment with different companies for processing, or even try and do it yourself. I don't have the time or the space at home for self-development, so I give to a shop in London to develop and do a hi-res scan for a CD. I then load the CD into my computer to store the photos and do small edits. Finally I like to have faster lenses with film, as this gives me more flexibility. I actually don't carry anything under f1.4. f2 lenses are smaller and cheaper however, and if you have ones that are sharp wide open (so you can actually use f2), you might find this ok. I currently use Voigtlander and Zeiss lenses on my MP due to the price/performance ratio (Voigtlander 35mm ii f1.2 and Zeiss 50mm f1.5) but if you can afford the Zeiss 35mm f1.4 or the Leica 35mm f1.4 or the Leica 50mm f1.4 that would be even better. Best of luck and tell us what you decide to do ... Lastly, despite the above shots, you can also do colour with film cameras Borough Market, London Bridge, London North Jordan Valley, Kinneret, Israel Edited June 18, 2015 by colonel 7 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyboy Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share #145 Posted June 20, 2015 Nice Jonny I like "natural" grain on these two pictures. If you are interested , here my recent answer about the Sebastian's question : MP film or MM ? http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/246300-monochrom-or-mp-film-help-needed/?p=2834853 http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/246300-monochrom-or-mp-film-help-needed/?p=2834932 Thanks for reading Best Henry Jonny, I always use a new and fresh developper for each film , but you can re-use the developper may be used 2 or 3 times. The development time is extended with an old developer. When it oxidizes ie becomes colored it must be discarded and not use. Do not forget to properly secure a good conservation of the negative with a good fixer like "Ilford rapid fixer" , I leave in fixer during 10 minutes. Very interesting read Henry, thanks for sharing. Forgot to attach the file. Very nice mood in this picture, lovely. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyboy Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share #146 Posted June 24, 2015 Pushing film. Who can give me a quick guidance to push a Tri-X 400 (push it to 800)?I have a roll which I think I under exposed - dont mind experimenting on this roll...Chemicals I use to develop is Ilfosol 3. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RudiLorenz Posted August 26, 2015 Share #147 Posted August 26, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) you are putting the cart before the horse, so to speak. When you are intrigued by particular black and white images, analyze them with respect to subject, lighting and its direction, framing, etc., until you understand why b&w appeals to you. Go to museums and exhibitions. Look at books of photographs in the library. Buy a Wratten 90 viewing filter and learn to see the world in b&w. After three to six months you may be ready to think about film formats and focal lengths with which to start. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
indergaard Posted August 27, 2015 Share #148 Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) Pushing film. Who can give me a quick guidance to push a Tri-X 400 (push it to 800)? I have a roll which I think I under exposed - dont mind experimenting on this roll... Chemicals I use to develop is Ilfosol 3. Thanks in advance! Here: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Tri-X+400&Developer=Ilfosol+3&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C And also: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=pushproc Edited August 27, 2015 by indergaard Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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