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TAS filmprocessor


LeicaBraz

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I am using the TAS film processor since it is on the market. If you have regular film development and you want some comfort in developing the precise reproducibility is an extra.

Further a higher dilution developer gives mostly a boring long developing time so there are not any issues why you should avoid any optimum film developer combination.

 

The unit is very well build by hand, made in Germany only the first version (external) power supply was not that good so Heiland replaced it by another type.

 

I have the version for the Jobo drum system which means I am using 1510-1520-1540 and 2521 drums on the TAS.

I have also a Jobo CPA-2. But especially for the high acutance type developers like R09/Rodinal, Beutler/FX-1 the TAS inverse developing system has only advantages.

 

I can recommend the Heiland TAS processor for anybody who has regular film development in smaller batches and who wants precise control about the film development, wants the comfort and doesn't have to look for some money. Comparing to a new CPP-3 Jobo with elevator the TAS is cheap but comparing to any second hand solution in the darkroom all these new processors are rediculous expensive.

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How many rolls are going to be worth the purchase, to you?

 

Curious as I have looked at it before and recently came back from a trip, short :D, with 24 rolls.

Usually one or two batches of five per tank a week does me with bursts of more inbetween as needed that's about 500 rolls a year and I don't see the adavantage. With the regularity of processing I think I can be consistent and can be subtle in changes to suit the film, whether that is a placebo effect another thing :rolleyes:

 

I can see a prolonged time in very dilute developer being boring but that method is is usually stand or semi-stand and continuous agitation is of little or no advantage. YMMV.

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The fundamental flaw as I see it is temperature. This machine is said to ensure even and reproducible development, it is said to take the drudgery out of long development times, but it can't compensate for the ambient temperature in the room, which for most rooms changes from day to day. So by the time the developer has gone from the ideal working temperature, to the warmer or cooler ambient temperature, in the space of say half an hour, it isn't exactly following a very consistent and reproducible process is it? At least with hand development you can put the dev tank into a water bath between agitations no matter what the room temperature is.

 

So it would only work for short development times anyway, and if your attention span is so short that it can't concentrate for ten minutes on a couple of rolls of Tri-X then perhaps film isn't the thing for you. This is an eye wateringly expensive and flawed solution to an illusory problem.

 

Steve

Edited by 250swb
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My question was intended for those who had experience with the device

 

35 years I made all development by hand. And now the last 9 years with the TAS. My B&W chemicals are always in the range of the room temperature. Stop and Fix I am re-using and around that temperature I make my film developer.

 

You put in the standard time for 20C development and then compensate for the actual room temperature of the film developer. The TAS is calculating the exact developing time.

 

Of course you can not remake a developer on 15C when the room temperature is 24C and your Stop and Fix is also on 24C. In worst case apart from an unknown temperature gradient you can get reticulation too.

Further my destilled water is in the darkroom too and my room temperature is normally in between 17C-24C.

 

So the device is practical, handy and for the user very comfortable. I won't say anything about the price which is the same about cameras. You can have a nice Zorki-6 with J-8 for Eur. 90,- for making photos and you can buy a Leica M7 and Summicron for Eur. 5900,- both excellent F/2,0-50mm optics but a bit different price range. And of course that M7 is more comfortable in handling but that doesn't mean you can have excellent results with the alternative. I will even put it stronger: For a real experienced photographer can make better pictures with the Z-6/J-8 then somebody who is a novice putting the Leica M7 in his/her hand.

 

If you think that Mr. TAS can do everything for you so that you do not have to think about the development anymore the device is certainly not suitable for you.

 

But the TAS is flexible in programming. You can even do a two bath development.So far I did not found anything the TAS can not do something which I had done before by hand.

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So far I did not found anything the TAS can not do something which I had done before by hand.

 

So you can do everything by hand that the TAS can do............except it doesn't cost over 800 Euro to do it by hand. I know the OP wanted some sort of justification from people who had actually used the TAS system (and then gets shirty when anybody else responded) but sometimes you have to look at how many people didn't respond to weigh up the pro's and con's of the system. From looking at the spec sheet and trying my best to find a good reason for spending so much money I'm ultimately not surprised the idea hasn't caught on.

 

Steve

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I didn't ask for a justification; I only asked from users that had experience with it what their comments were. And I find what fotohuis has said extremely useful; and he has the device.

I could have posted: "what do you think, should I buy the ....". I didn't

If it was about price, then we are in a different ballpark and I subscribe again to fotohuis comments.

Besides the above, I find your remark not applicable: you can always keep your liquids in whatever cold/hot bath you want whilst using the TAS. Of course not when you are actually developing or fixing but I don't think 5 or even 10 minutes would have much effect on the pre-existing temperature.

Indeed I get shirty when people answer without any actual experience or mix things up (expense vs usefulness).

And people are not bound to answer or comment on every thread!!!

Warmest regards and thanks fotohuis, once again.

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I use the 'not so good' TAS?

Without knowing the exact difference, it works perfectly for me.

Bought it used and didn't have correct plates to mount the Jobo drums, but Heiland did send out the correct plates fast and a more than reasonable price.

To me it's not about if it's economical or not. It does the boring part for me.

 

Recently got myself a lift for my CPE2 to make color processing a bit easier as well.

Probably even more uneconomical, but I wouldn't even mind something like the ATL1500 to replace the CPE2 in the near future.

I love shooting film, but have little love for developing.

 

Convenience has its price I guess...

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tookaphotoof, the ATL 1500 is superb. Totally automatic, except for film drying.

I have had mine for about 15 years. It used to crank out 5 - 35mm rolls or 5 - 220 rolls at a time ad nauseum. It doesn't get a lot of use now but still works reliably on single rolls.

 

I think I saw one recently for sale somewhere in Copenhagen. Might be worth checking out, at least on line.

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  • 10 months later...
Guest gamincurieux

Paterson tanks can be so leaky, can be hard to get a good seal so nothing drips out. Does anyone have experience using Paterson tanks on the TAS processor??

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't have a TAS, nor can I really justify buying an old Jobo and chasing after spare parts. But for $50 I could buy a Rondinax and set it on a base where a motor will turn the reel. The tank lifts off to pour out a solution, and can then be set down again so the gears engage as I pour in the next solution. Here it is:

 

20002044451_385b1b8eec_c.jpg

New motorised Rondinax by chrism229, on Flickr

 

19374202784_5ec8bb5dd9_c.jpg

New motorised Rondinax by chrism229, on Flickr

 

I have used it with conventional B&W processing, with Diafine, with Qualls' monobath and for C-41 processing (using a presoak at 105º and developer at 102º I find I don't have to do anything to keep the tank warm during the 3.5 minutes of colour development). I'm delighted! The Rondinax tanks have already shown me that the despised rotation form of agitation actually works rather well (just as it did in the bakelite Gnome tank of my father's that I first retrieved from the loft in the early 1970's - it was all he had ever used with his Exakta in the 1950's and could not be inverted without spilling liquid everywhere). Since Jobo's all work with rotation why do we look down upon the twiddle-stick that comes with each Paterson System 4 tank? Anyway, I have an easy, reliable, reproducible mode of agitation that takes the drudgery out of processing, and for very little cost. Here's a challenge for you - build some better versions and put me to shame! 

 

Chris

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I will keep it in this way:

 

19543956724_6dccc198f8.jpg

 

 

And because I worked together with Heiland on it for some last practical changes the TAS processor was already half a gift from Jürgen Heiland in 2004.

Edited by fotohuis
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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest gamincurieux

Can anyone please tell me how to change the tank adapters/discs??

I have bought the Jobo version & have just received discs for Paterson tanks, I need to put the Paterson discs on so I can finally start using this device, but I can't see how I do it & Heiland as yet haven't given instructions.

Anyone? Fotohuis?? Bueller??? Bueller????

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Guest gamincurieux

Can anyone please tell me how to change the tank adapters/discs??

I have bought the Jobo version & have just received discs for Paterson tanks, I need to put the Paterson discs on so I can finally start using this device, but I can't see how I do it & Heiland as yet haven't given instructions.

Anyone? Fotohuis?? Bueller??? Bueller????

I will keep it in this way:

 

19543956724_6dccc198f8.jpg

 

 

And because I worked together with Heiland on it for some last practical changes the TAS processor was already half a gift from Jürgen Heiland in 2004.

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Can anyone please tell me how to change the tank adapters/discs??

I have bought the Jobo version & have just received discs for Paterson tanks, I need to put the Paterson discs on so I can finally start using this device, but I can't see how I do it & Heiland as yet haven't given instructions.

Anyone? Fotohuis?? Bueller??? Bueller????

If you have ordered TAS for tanks of different brands, the upper and lower tank holder must be exchanged. Below find a description containing the principal of exchanging, in special cases there might be an attached sheet with additional hints. Upper tank holder: Unfasten the screw B and remove the tank holder. Insert the other tank holder, screw "B" is located on the right side. Lower tank holder: Loosen screw E and remove the tank holder. Insert the other tank holder, choose the correct stop , insert an empty tank and do the fine tuning of the distance by knob F.

 

http://heilandelectronic.de/files/documents/TAS_UserManual.pdf

 

 

http://www.rhdesigns.co.uk/darkroom/html/tas_film_processor.html

 

Any help?

Edited by chris_livsey
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