NJH Posted May 1, 2014 Share #21 Posted May 1, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Put the dial into A and follow as I said in my post above 105012 . Works a treat, then pick where your mid tone should be in the scene and half press the shutter to lock it in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 Hi NJH, Take a look here Most ergonomic shutter speed dial: M6, M6 TTL, M7, or MP?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
250swb Posted May 1, 2014 Share #22 Posted May 1, 2014 So what are your thoughts? . It isn't a problem, an issue, a concern, or any other negative complication, and shouldn't be made into one. The simple fact is that whichever camera you choose will be fine, you'll soon get used to using it quickly and whether it has a big dial or small dial will not affect your photography one bit, unless you let it. You are over thinking something that in the scheme of things is irrelevant. And 'in the scheme of things' consider this, more great photographs have been taken with 'small dial' Leica M's than any other. It is clearly a statistic based on history, model lifespan, and the later decline of film use, but it can't be argued about Steve 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted May 1, 2014 Share #23 Posted May 1, 2014 I have the M6TTL Millennium /snip/ What I like about the TTL's dial is also that the distance between the 60-50 and 50-30 positions is shorter, which means that I can feel when I move to the slower speeds. I don't know if the M7's dial is like this, I should add. Firstly, wish I had a Millennium. My dream camera. one day... On topic, the M6 classic (only one I'm familiar with) has a larger indent at the fast/slow speed change, which I use in the similar way. My shutter dial is quite worn, and is hard to move past the indent with one finger which I like. Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
erl Posted May 2, 2014 Share #24 Posted May 2, 2014 That is interesting. I imagine you are referring to the last of my three points? I read the following about the M7 from LEICA: How can this be used to immediately see how many stops (beyond 0.5) one is from the metered reading? Just curious. On the M5 you can see it immediately because the needle is displaced along the analogue scale, no need to do any action other than look. You are right. I guess I confused myself (easily done) because of the way I normally work. ie. camera is always pre-set for general ambiance. That usually puts me within 1 stop or lesss of 'correct'. At that point, the M7 can tell me how far off I am. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr237 Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share #25 Posted May 5, 2014 Thanks everyone for the insight and thoughts. Since my original post, I spent some time in a Leica store comparing an MP to an M7. I also spoke with the sales guy for quite a length of time, as it turned out he was more at home with the film M bodies than the 240, etc. I've summed up an answer to my question with the following two points: 1) It doesn't really matter as you'll get the hang of it regardless of which camera you choose; and 2) Going for whichever design is "faster" kind of misses the point of shooting a film rangefinder in this day and age. Sure, you want to be handy with your camera so you can get a picture without fiddling. But if speed is what's most important, other camera styles are probably more appropriate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
erl Posted May 5, 2014 Share #26 Posted May 5, 2014 But if speed is what's most important, other camera styles are probably more appropriate. Sometimes, but not always. Many variables in that scenario. Whatever, you will learn to maximize your speed with whichever M you choose. Enjoy it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
abrewer Posted May 5, 2014 Share #27 Posted May 5, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Whichever M you choose you'll be happy, and come back here when you are ready to learn how to focus quickly, check if the film is winding forward, forget to rewind before you remove the bottom plate, lose your lens cap, exhaust the battery miles from the store.... See...we told you there were more important things to worry about! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr237 Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share #28 Posted May 7, 2014 Aside: I used a hand-held meter until getting the first M7, and I am so impressed with its accuracy and consistency I bought a second. You mean a second M7? What led you to like the M7 relative to the other M models? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted May 7, 2014 Share #29 Posted May 7, 2014 2) Going for whichever design is "faster" kind of misses the point of shooting a film rangefinder in this day and age. Sure, you want to be handy with your camera so you can get a picture without fiddling. But if speed is what's most important, other camera styles are probably more appropriate. I'd say I work faster with my M2 than any other camera, e.g. for street photography. It's always 'on', I will have already set the exposure based on Sunny 16 or an incident reading when I start out (and instinctively adjust as light changes), I set focus/aperture so that I can take a grab shot and it should be fine, or if I can spare a second I can quickly focus with the rangefinder, there's zero shutter lag or time delay to switch on or wake up the camera, and the battery never fails! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
abrewer Posted May 7, 2014 Share #30 Posted May 7, 2014 I'd say I work faster with my M2 than any other camera, e.g. for street photography. It's always 'on', I will have already set the exposure based on Sunny 16 or an incident reading when I start out (and instinctively adjust as light changes), I set focus/aperture so that I can take a grab shot and it should be fine, or if I can spare a second I can quickly focus with the rangefinder, there's zero shutter lag or time delay to switch on or wake up the camera, and the battery never fails! Yes, that's pretty much the same way I work too I keep the focus ring all the way to inifinity between shots, so there's only one direction it can go when I have to focus up in a hurry Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted May 7, 2014 Share #31 Posted May 7, 2014 You mean a second M7? What led you to like the M7 relative to the other M models? Yes, an additional M7 body. Two because I am habituated to not changing lenses. What led me to the M7 was to try the light metering system and most recent film camera engineering. I find the M7 to be superlative. I already have several other M bodies, all M4, and had M2 before those. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted May 8, 2014 Share #32 Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) A private message from one of our informed participants has moved me to remove the veil concerning my choice of an M7. It is important. I know very well that the M6, first version, was my choice when moving up to M7 bodies, but at the time I had no opportunity to touch and feel the available M6 bodies so I took the path of least resistance and bought two M7 bodies. If I could do it again I would choose M6. Version one. Sent from my Etcha-sketch. Edited May 8, 2014 by pico 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted May 8, 2014 Share #33 Posted May 8, 2014 ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted May 14, 2014 Share #34 Posted May 14, 2014 The classic small M3 - MP dial is the best by far. It's hard stop in either direction gives reference to set the speed and it is easy and precisely adjusted by just a fingertip (tip: move the dial by placing your index finger on the top decl in front of the dial and move the dial with your index finger joint - even the stiffest of shutter speed dials will move with precision and ease). I wish all M bodies including latest digitals would have this dial again. I hate the freely spinning modern dials (M7 and newer), as I always have to look at the dial to find which speed I am at to start from. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tadeyev Posted May 18, 2014 Share #35 Posted May 18, 2014 It is funny that in all these discussions regarding the speed dial (over the entire Internet!), no one seems to have read the TTL or Classic M6 Leica instructions on exposure setting and the viewfinder arrows. Although I suppose many of us here mostly use aperture priority, it seems the M6 classic was principally thought out as shutter priority based as per the instruction booklets. The arrows point to the direction that the aperture ring needs to be turned for correct exposure, not the shutter speed dial. M6 Classic: "If the shutter speed is set first, it is easy to adjust correct exposure with the lens aperture ring, as the arrows also indicate the direction of needed rotation." And later in the same text: " After a speed has been set, touch the release button rightly and rotate the lens aperture ring until both LED's light up equally..." In the M6 TTL, this is changed: "Turn the shutter speed dial AND/OR the aperture ring on the lens in the direction indicated by the flashing LED until only the round LED comes on". Leica probably found this a perfectly logical improvement, only to get backlash from Classic owners later about the speed dial direction. Makes the whole discussion of right or wrong direction of the shutter speed setting a true can of worms ;-0) ! Tadeyev 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted May 18, 2014 Share #36 Posted May 18, 2014 Although I suppose many of us here mostly use aperture priority, it seems the M6 classic was principally thought out as shutter priority based as per the instruction booklets. The arrows point to the direction that the aperture ring needs to be turned for correct exposure, not the shutter speed dial. M6 Classic: "If the shutter speed is set first, it is easy to adjust correct exposure with the lens aperture ring, as the arrows also indicate the direction of needed rotation." And later in the same text: " After a speed has been set, touch the release button rightly and rotate the lens aperture ring until both LED's light up equally..." That is the way we used to meter: first set exposure for the general conditions, selecting a starting aperture and speed, then tweak the aperture if needed for a particular shot. It was fine for handheld, MR meter, or M5-M6. We weren't as obsessed with bokeh in those days... 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted May 26, 2014 Share #37 Posted May 26, 2014 (edited) Hello Everybody, Shutter speed priority or aperture priority: This is a question that arose early in the development of electronically controlled shutters. Eventually both were equally available. In the beginning manufacturing limitations only allowed for 1 or the other. Many photographers thought shutter speed priority was preferable. Manufacturers preferred aperture priority because it was both mechanically simpler to build & cheaper. When both became mechanically & electronically equally available at the rotation of a dial: An interesting thing was realized: Altho many people thought they preferred shutter speed priority: In actuality they generally preferred to use aperture priority more often. Example: A person wants to take a picture @ the highest shutter speed available: They first choose the largest aperture appropriate to that photo & then set the shutter speed accordingly. Example: A person takes a photo thru filters or/& with a lens extended to the point where it changes the ammount of light arriving @ the sensor/film. An example of this would be when someone was taking a closeup with an asymetric lens, ie: 135mm Tele-Elmar with or without filters @ 1.5 meters. When I use either a Leicameter or a separate handheld meter in most instances in most situations: I generally set the aperture where it is most appropriate (usually 4, 5.6 or 8, regardless of lens) and then let the shutter speed fall where it may. Altho, like most photographers, I also have my share of F2 handheld @ 1 second. The option of having both equally available, of course, is better. Best Regards, Michael Edited May 26, 2014 by Michael Geschlecht Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
asiafish Posted June 4, 2014 Share #38 Posted June 4, 2014 Not on your list, but I'd rank the M5 first, followed by the M2-3-4 with the MR meter attached, which adds a larger speed dial. Agreed, M5 is vastly superior to all others when it comes to the placement and operation of the shutter speed dial, especially with the camera at eye level. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joop van Heijgen Posted June 7, 2014 Share #39 Posted June 7, 2014 The MR shutter speed dial on my M4(P)... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
piblondin Posted August 26, 2015 Share #40 Posted August 26, 2015 I prefer the size of the M7's dial and it's ability to rotate fully in both directions. If you're using the metering lights in the viewfinder as a guide, why would you want the shutter speed dial to stop rotating at any point? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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