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21mm/24mm f/1.4 for star photography?


pyang921

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Hi everyone!

 

I am thinking about getting another lens for star photography especially shooting the milky way. I am currently using a Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 on my sony a7r. I found 21mm f/1.4 is the fastest in all wide-angle lenses but no sample shots can be found online. Anyone know if its performance is better than Canon 24mm f/1.4?

 

I guess it is 2-stop faster than f/2.8 and the extra 3mm makes it wider than 24mm, though not much. I have heard 21mm summilux has some distortion issues whilst 24mm summilux is much better. Which one would you recommend?

 

Thanks!

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It's likely that any M lens wider than 35mm will have issues on the A7R - and most of them are only showing a properly sharp image across the frame at ~f/8. You're better off using something else - Samyang/Rokinon do plan a 24 1.4 with native FE mount, for example.

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I just pointed my 21 Summilux out the window 8s @ f/1.4 ISO 160 on a M9.

The camera is not squared so vertical perspective is what it is.

 

There is quite a bit of light pollution, but you can see Orion in the center and hopefully gauge the sharpness; degree of coma and chromatic aberration.

It seems sharp with well controlled coma to me.

 

The DNG file is here if you want to look deeper.

 

http://www.donaldingram.com/ForumImages/L1004475.DNG

 

and a full size jpg

 

http://www.donaldingram.com/ForumImages/L1004475full.jpg

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Edited by FrozenInTime
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I don't quite understand the need for f/1.4 to photograph stars. After all most night shots like this will need long exposures anyway, and with a suitable tripod, easily accomplished.

 

The Earth is rotating - so long exposures are great if you want star trails.

If you expose for longer than ~ 60/focallength seconds you you will see trails.

 

The long exposure photos with e.g. the Milky Way are traditionally taken using an equatorial mount, which when correctly aligned, tracks out the stars motion.

 

If you want a forground object e.g. a tree to be sillioueted against a static star field you either need short exposures or to play tricks in the darkroom/post to combine, align and mask multiple images.

 

Google widefield astrophotography - there is a good introduction on Steve Huff's site

Edited by FrozenInTime
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Yes, but the difference in exposure needs for f/1.4 vs say f/2.8 or f/3.4 to discern any trails would be minimal, I think.

 

Not true, as the difference in 2 or 3 stops can be substantial. Many people limit exposure time to under 30 seconds to avoid star trails, and unless you want to crank up the ISO and introduce significant noise in your image a fast aperture is the way to go.

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If you're doing this using an M9 / MM / M240 then have a good look at the Voigtländer 21mm f1.8 - but as said previously, if you're looking to adapt M lenses to A7R, don't bother, because they will be smeary until at least f8, and will probably have massive light falloff and colour issues around the edges until ~35mm.

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Not true, as the difference in 2 or 3 stops can be substantial. Many people limit exposure time to under 30 seconds to avoid star trails, and unless you want to crank up the ISO and introduce significant noise in your image a fast aperture is the way to go.

 

For the price difference between 3.4 and 1.4 OP could buy a telescope mount that is motorized and would track stars properly all night. (Once it was aligned of course.) I don't think it would be too large either.

OP - Check someplace like (in the US) Sky & Telescope magazine or the inevitable Google-verse.

 

s-a

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Also cheaper would be to pick up a Pentax K-3 and add the 0-GPS1 that adds the "ASTROTRACER" to compensate star motion by moving the sensor using the image stabilization in the body. I've seen some impressive results from that rig, but with the APS-C sensor wider lenses are needed.

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I just pointed my 21 Summilux out the window 8s @ f/1.4 ISO 160 on a M9.

The camera is not squared so vertical perspective is what it is.

 

There is quite a bit of light pollution, but you can see Orion in the center and hopefully gauge the sharpness; degree of coma and chromatic aberration.

It seems sharp with well controlled coma to me.

 

The DNG file is here if you want to look deeper.

 

http://www.donaldingram.com/ForumImages/L1004475.DNG

 

and a full size jpg

 

http://www.donaldingram.com/ForumImages/L1004475full.jpg

 

Wow! Thank you so much for this! I've been looking for test shots like this for a while! Is that coma controllable at all? Would that happen if I go somewhere with less light pollution?

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For the price difference between 3.4 and 1.4 OP could buy a telescope mount that is motorized and would track stars properly all night. (Once it was aligned of course.) I don't think it would be too large either.

OP - Check someplace like (in the US) Sky & Telescope magazine or the inevitable Google-verse.

 

s-a

 

Well, most of my astro-photography includes a bit of landscapes such as mountains etc. So really I cannot use a tracking mount :( This style photography really empty your wallet substantially

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If you're doing this using an M9 / MM / M240 then have a good look at the Voigtländer 21mm f1.8 - but as said previously, if you're looking to adapt M lenses to A7R, don't bother, because they will be smeary until at least f8, and will probably have massive light falloff and colour issues around the edges until ~35mm.

 

Is that color smearing only happen with non-Leica M lenses? I saw several test shots with 24mm summilux, and they look fine, though they are not night, long exposure photos. I wonder if that would make a difference on color smearing. Is there any source that has confirmed 21mm summilux can be used on A7r and has absolutely no problem with long exposure?

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Is that coma controllable at all? Would that happen if I go somewhere with less light pollution?

 

The only way to improve coma is to stop down ; but you will also find slower lenses often intrinsically have less coma ; so the 21/3.4 full open is likely to have less coma than the 21/1.4 stopped down to f/3.4.

 

Light pollution does not effect coma; but lenses with larger physical apertures record fainter point sources, whereas diffuse light source exposure is governed by relative aperture.

 

For use on the A7/A7r the Rokinon 24/1.4 would seem to be an excellent choice see How to Pick a Lens for Milky Way Photography | lonely speck

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  • 2 years later...

Hi everyone!

 

I am thinking about getting another lens for star photography especially shooting the milky way. I am currently using a Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 on my sony a7r. I found 21mm f/1.4 is the fastest in all wide-angle lenses but no sample shots can be found online. Anyone know if its performance is better than Canon 24mm f/1.4?

 

I guess it is 2-stop faster than f/2.8 and the extra 3mm makes it wider than 24mm, though not much. I have heard 21mm summilux has some distortion issues whilst 24mm summilux is much better. Which one would you recommend?

 

Thanks!

 

If it's not too late...here's a shot with the 21mm f1.4 on the SL

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/253192-leica-sl-image-thread-post-your-examples-here/?p=3045927

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There is little to choose in optical quality between the Summilux 21 and Summilux 24. For lenses of this speed they are superb. It all depends on the use you plan to take; star shots are one thing, but these lenses are too fine -and expensive- to neglect their use for the rest of your photography.

 

However, given the present-day improvements in high-ISO performance I would question the need for super-fast lenses for star photography. The Super-Elmars offer perfect edge-to-edge sharpness, minimal distortion, a flat focal plane, more so than any faster lens can offer.

 If I were to head out in the night I would take the Super-Elmar 18, a good tripod and crank up the ISO (within limits, of course ;)) Heck, the price difference would get me a A7SII...

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Here's Orion setting, over Adelaide (light "pollution"), looking west.

It's upside down here...

 

With an M8 and CV 15mm  f4.5 @ 160 ISO, 24 sec, f4.5, (20mm equivalence) SOOC

 

 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

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Shooting Milkyway require more exposure than bright stars since the stars in it are much more faint. You also need a foreground to make it look interesting which negates tracking mount. 

 

I have shot Milkyway with M240+CV 15mm V2 and have described the results and limitations of M240 in detail in the following link:

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/240073-leica-m-240-its-serious-drawbacks-for-landscape-shooters-%E2%80%93-but-can-we-fix-it/page-9?do=findComment&comment=2884531

 

But I also would like to add that I did a very good 8x11 print of the very same picture and don't see any grain and very little star streak on the print even with close inspection. Therefore most of our concerns about high ISO grain, coma and star treak should be moderated by looking at actual output rather than by 1:1 pixel peeping.

Edited by jmahto
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Astrphotography especially stars is now mostly done by stacking rather than long exposure, most Astro mounts will not track accurately enough for anything more than 5 minutes after that they need to have a guider. The Rokinon lenses are very popular with astrophotographers and seem to work much better than the canon equivalents.

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  • 5 months later...

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