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A Suitable Enlarger


Colin1974

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V35, Kaiser models, any color enlarger allows use of magenta/yellow balance . Use both in combination to keep middle grey constant or either yellow or magenta alone for fastest exposure time around #2. Advantage disappears the further you go away from #2.

 

Built in B/W modules like the V35 just vary the proportion of each color and printing speed is sacrificed for convenience.

 

30 cc of magenta or yellow will change contrast one grade , 60 two grades etc.

Edited by tobey bilek
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I've just ordered a refurbished Meopta Axamat 5, along with a lens, for just over £100 for the pair. It'll be an excellent starter kit.

My concern with the Leitz v35 is that early models only take an obsolete brand of lightbulb, which may cause more trouble than I would have the patience for, although I don't mind the cost of top-range gear.

Thanks for the reply.

 

Colin.

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Thanks for the post. I won't bother with the v35, not with all the added expense involved. It's easier to stick with the "middle ground" brands, where availability of lightbulbs and spare parts is not going to be an issue that costs me more and more money.

All the best, Colin.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Emile de Leon

You can get a Valoy or Focomat 1c cheep these days..

Buy a small color head..replace the top half of the Leica lamphouse with the colorhead..it will act as your color source..

You can make a round flat adapter to fit with hole cut out for color head..using matboard or go fancy like I did..and use sheet metal for a more permanent solution...

And you will have one of the nicest color enlargers ever made..

Edited by Emile de Leon
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Hello, Is it possible to buy black and white enlarger with VC filters fitted in the head?

After a few false starts, I'm looking into starting darkroom work from the scratch and am looking for a b&w enlarger built for convenience.

Thanks.

 

Colin.

 

The nice Meopta color 3 head should fit the Axomat 5. It uses a fairly standard type of lamp. Avoid the color 4 head, it has some serious disadvantages. There is also a specialized vario contrast head called "Meograde", but it is hard to find these days. You can use the magenta and yellow filters of the color head to set contrast as outlined by others above, but the actual filter values will differ from those of other manufacturers. The data sheets of your paper should give you a clue. When you buy one of these heads, make sure you have the correct mixing chamber for 35mm, else you will encounter rather long exposure times.

If your Axomat came with a condenser head you will have to use separate VC filters sheets. These can be quite expensive and will degrade with use over the years, so before you invest in these, maybe it is more convenient and economical to watch out for a used color head 3, which should be available for 50 Euros or even cheaper complete with mixing chamber and power source.

If you are looking for lens boards, masks or similar small items, some Meopta accessories are still available new from Nova darkroom in the UK or Fotoimpex in Germany.

Have fun!

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Everyone, thanks for all the helpful advice, I really love reading these pieces.

Unfortunately, as I live in a council flat, I won't be able to do any darkroom work for now. The tenancy team are not happy with me using chemicals in my bathroom, as the fumes do tend to linger and I might be risking complaints from the neighbours.

I'll just send the films to Ilford Labs or Snappy Snaps and let the experts deal with it. For now, I'll just stay on this side of the camera.

Thanks everyone for being so helpful, I really appreciate it.

Colin.

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Bummer.

 

Maybe heresy, but have you considered scanning and inkjet printing? I built 4 b/w darkrooms over several decades, but now have learned to produce some still wonderful b/w prints without the fumes.

 

I'd rather control the whole process from camera to print (and mat/frame/display), even if it means switching processes. YMMV.

 

Jeff

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Yes, I'm open to that - after all, I happily use a digital camera and analogue facilities aren't as openly available as they used to be. Also, I can develop my own B&W films without much trouble (apart from my dexterity!).

Can you recommend an inkjet printer that specialises in B&W/ greyscale printing? I used to have an inkjet printer, but could never get the colour balance right. I would certainly use a suitable B&W printer.

Thanks again for your help.

 

All the best, Colin.

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Sure, there is a lot of discussion on this topic in the Digital PP section of the forum. Here is a comment I made in one of those many threads (the search box will bring up others, or you can just browse the sub-forum). Just as in the darkroom, the printer (or enlarger) is but part of a larger workflow necessary for fine prints. But getting a good one is an important part of the chain.

 

A lot depends on your preferred print size. Epson is the most popular current brand, with the R3000 (13") and 3880 (17") among those preferred by many users here. Canon also makes some good products.

 

I was frankly skeptical about switching from silver to digital prints, but the quality of hardware, software and print materials (papers, inks, etc) these days allows for some great results. There are some hybrid approaches as well, e.g., printing digital files on to silver papers (generally requiring an outside service), but I haven't gone that route.

 

Lots to read, but feel free to ask specific questions if you get to that point.

 

Jeff

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I have occasionally used Ilford Lab Direct to have silver gelatin prints made from scanned negatives. The prints were identical to what I created on my screen. If you want a silver print - this works very well. It also allows for larger prints than I (and most people) want or can make in a home darkroom.

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  • 2 weeks later...

As always, thanks for some good advice.

I've decided to start right at the beginning and take my time over it, with proper measurements and advice to follow to the letter

I've just found some MDF board and cut out a work surface to place over my bath. Once I have found a decent blind for the bathroom door, I will test it thoroughly. If I use the extractor fan and air fan throughout, the air will remain clear and healthy.

It should be fine if I treat it all as a work in progress, and resist trying to do it on the cheap and quick. There is enough space if I'm just organised and thorough about everything.

 

 

Thanks, Colin.

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As always, thanks for some good advice.

I've decided to start right at the beginning and take my time over it, with proper measurements and advice to follow to the letter

I've just found some MDF board and cut out a work surface to place over my bath. Once I have found a decent blind for the bathroom door, I will test it thoroughly. If I use the extractor fan and air fan throughout, the air will remain clear and healthy.

It should be fine if I treat it all as a work in progress, and resist trying to do it on the cheap and quick. There is enough space if I'm just organised and thorough about everything.

 

 

Thanks, Colin.

 

Me again. I needed to block out light from 2 windows and a door. I went to the local fabric store and bought drapery lining. The kind intended to make drapes light tight. I asked that it be opaque, and it is. It was quite cheap (about $30), and it does the job perfectly.

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I've now got a Durst c35. It looks like a good buy. It's a 35mm colour enlarger with built-in yellow and magenta filtration: does this mean that I needn't buy multigrade filters for b&w work? That would make things easier.

I've also bought a cheap roller-blind which I've cut to size.

Slowly, things are taking shape.

Watch this space.....

 

 

 

Colin.

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