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Monochrom Long Exposure Issue


fotografr

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I wish you could turn off the long exposure NR on the Ms - maybe a firmware update? I'd love to do some LE work (avec scrunchies) on my mono. Max exp time is 240s isn't it? But the NR thing is a pita doubling every shot.

Edited by Reds
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So you can be happy if you get 2 or 3 good shots within an hour.

 

Well yes, you can be happy. This is because with NR you see if you wasted your time there and then, although 'then' takes longer to arrive. But far better than spending an hour only exposing images and not knowing if they are working, because without noise reduction you wouldn't even have an accurate histogram to work with.

 

Steve

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I wish you could turn off the long exposure NR on the Ms - maybe a firmware update? I'd love to do some LE work (avec scrunchies) on my mono. Max exp time is 240s isn't it? But the NR thing is a pita doubling every shot.

 

There is one problem here. The noise reduction by immediate black frame subtraction removes noise that cannot be removed any other way.

Without it the image would be less quality or even unusable.

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I use my Nikon with it switched off and don't suffer any major issues. Hot pixels are easy enough to deal with in post, (if that's what you were referring to?).

 

Is it a CCD related thing? I'd still like to have the option and decide for myself. Especially to keep up with cloud formations moving around and changing light. Those extra 4 mins all add up quite quickly.

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Not the number of hot pixels you'll see on a CCD at longer than one second. If you watch the review carefully you'll see the process in action. The image changes from something awful into a good image in the first fraction of a second.

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  • 1 year later...

This post is pretty old but I figured I'd chime in incase anyone hasn't noticed that this is a problem inherent in the M-mount altogether. I get these same reflections in my M3. It is not a "digital" camera issue. I've seen it with a 50mm Summicron-DR and a 35mm Summilux pre-ASPH, both with a B+W 10 stop ND on Tri-X. It seems the scrunchie solution is the best one all around. Just thought I'd let you all know that film is still susceptible to this issue and it doesn't seem to be lens specific.

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  • 3 years later...

New to the forum and I realize this thread is older, but I thought I would add my experience as it's all still very relevant. I'm new to M-mount lenses and have been shooting them on my Nikon Z6 and Z7 cameras by way of a Yeenon branded adapter (with helicoid). I'm shooting primarily Cosina Voigtlander stuff (21/1.8, 35/1.7, 40/1.4 SC, 50/1.5) and a few old L39 Nikkors. I've just begun experimenting with ND filters on these lenses and was totally perplexed when I began seeing some light leaks appearing in my images. My first thought was the adapter. While I wasn't using the close-focusing mechanism, a built-in helicoid that extends the lens a bit further and significantly decreases the minimum focusing distance, I thought perhaps that was coming into play. More moving parts, more gaps, more chance of light making it through. Furthermore, the CV 35/1.7, the lens I was using at the time, and the Yeenon adapter are chrome plated brass. Tons of reflective surfaces all around. Maybe light was reflecting off of the sensor glass, onto the back of the adapter and lens, and then back to the sensor again? This thread however, gives me great relief on one hand, that I'm not alone. But also frustrates me that the mount can allow for this. I have yet to test the hairband solution, though having read through this, I anticipate it will prove the point. I will be sure to update after I test it, for further reinforcement. Below is an image I made on an overcast day, around 120 sec exposures using the CV 35/1.7 and a B+W 10-stop ND filter. 

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