Exposure compensation

[satureyes]

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Well - I am more confused now too -

All I originally asked was that it seems more ergonomic - and easier to turn the plastic wheel on the back - to make setting changes while you are looking through the VF at the exposure meter - it would be good if it was assignable so that you could set it to be shutter speed/iso and then when looking at the triangles/dots you could rotate the ring with your thumb to get the 'dot' on the exposure meter.. that was all!!

[andybarton]

But you are using the camera in manual mode, are you not?

 

In which cased, you are choosing the exposure. If you want to adjust it, change the shutter speed (which isn't "quaint") or the aperture. Or, the ISO if you wish. You don't need to change the EV at all.

 

EV adjustment is for when you are using Auto exposure, not manual. If you were shooting in snowy conditions, for example, you might dial in an EV of +1 or +2 stops, to force the camera to over expose to compensate for the brightness of the snow and prevent under-exposure.

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[IkarusJohn]

If you're setting f-stop, and then selecting shutter speed manually, the meter will tell you if you're under or over exposing (arrows left and right, and a dot for bang on). You don't need EV Compensation (a drag to use, as Lars observes), or meter lock (it wont work unless the shutter speed dial is set to A).

 

If you suspect that using the meter setting will result in over or under exposure (happens a lot to me), then simply rotate the shutter speed dial or the aperture setting to the right to increase exposure, or to the left to reduce it. The beauty of the M9 is that the rotation is the same, whether you wish to adjust shutter (on the top-plate of the camera) or aperture (on the barrel of the lens) - left for under exposure, right for over exposure. This is far and away the easiest method to depart from the metered reading.

 

In A setting, you have the choice of locking the meter on the area you want exposed (as Rick describes, centre the area, and depress the shutter release to the second stop, in normal mode, and that will lock the meter - a solid red light comes on in the view finder - you can then recompose). Alternatively, switch from A mode to manual shutter selection.

 

You can also set your white balance manually, if that is feasible - the effect is the same in both A setting and with manual shutter setting. In a given light condition, you will then get consistent results for that setting (though the light may change).

 

I never touch the EV compensation in the Set menu - I'd forget to take it back off again, and it's all just guesswork I can do just as easily with a manual shutter selection.

 

Cheers

John

[tele_player]

I'm sorry to disagree, not having posted much here before, but EC is definitely available in full manual mode on M9.

 

Proof: In a room with constant light, fixed ISO and EC set to 0 - use the meter to set the aperture and shutter speed for correct exposure on a specific point in your room. Then, set EC to +1, and meter at the same point as before. The indicator in the viewfinder will tell you you need more light, and opening up the aperture by one stop, or dropping shutter speed by two clicks, or doubling the ISO will do it.

 

In other words, exposure compensation adjusts the meter, whether you're using 'A' mode or manual.

 

-Robert

 

I see what you are saying. Yes, it should not show the EC in the info panel. EC is not available in manual, of course. As you(we) said, manual is manual. I think you have discovered a "bug" that Leica should know about. They need to un-program that from the info panel when in manual. It probably should not show up when in manual because, it obviously doesn't change the manual exposure!

 

You get a gold star today.

[diogenis]

Hey all. This may be a really dumb question but it's late and Ive been working hard.

 

Just got my M9 and very excited. I just was wondering...

 

When the back dial is set for exp comp it doesn't reflect in the exposure meter within the viewfinder- it shows you the EV but will not affect the meter reading.

 

The reason I ask is that it seems like a slightly more ergonomic way to change the exposure to get the little red dot lit up.. Or am i thinking too much like a DSLR user?

 

Ok the guy here simply asks a fair question, and after 3-4 pages he still doesnt get a correct answer.

The answer to your question is NO It won't reflect compensation value in EV units in the red dot in your viewfinder, and there is a very simple reason it wont:

The photometer inside the camera all it does is to pick a time value according to your chosen ISO and Aperture value. And this constitutes composition. If YOU want to interfere on this the only way to do this is by using the Compensation wheel, and there are limits (+-3 stops). The photometer will keep asking for that certain value because its how it meters (strongly centered).

Compensation only exists, if for whatever the reason you want to OFFSET its value.

Or, just use manual. On manual ofcourse you can choose whatever you want.

 

Your second question:

The reason I ask is that it seems like a slightly more ergonomic way to change the exposure to get the little red dot lit up.. Or am i thinking too much like a DSLR user?

With this, I suspect that you want to be certain that you get the right exposure when you also combine the chosen compensation.

Your thinking here is wrong. Indeed you are thinking like a dSLR user where they meter using matrices of photocells. Here you only have one photocell that supervises just a small central and circular area, much like where your rangefinding patch is.

What you suggest is for the actual method of metering to change within the leica M9 and that is not possible of course. The simple rule you have to follow is, that your camera meters WHATEVER it sees where you point at with that small center patch.

[satureyes]

Thanks for that last answer- but actually I don't want to change the style of metering- it was more a design of the camera question- perhaps because I'm still on my steep learning curve- but it feels easier to rotate the ring on the back of the camera whilst I'm looking through the viewfinder than to move the shutter speed dial on top of the camera when trying to get the exposure right.

I thought it seemed like a nice idea to be able to customize the rear wheel so it could change ISO or Shutter speed- purely on an ergonomic level.

[pelagia]

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Well - I am more confused now too -

All I originally asked was that it seems more ergonomic - and easier to turn the plastic wheel on the back - to make setting changes while you are looking through the VF at the exposure meter - it would be good if it was assignable so that you could set it to be shutter speed/iso and then when looking at the triangles/dots you could rotate the ring with your thumb to get the 'dot' on the exposure meter.. that was all!!

 

Hey, Rick, now I understand what is the problem with your question and the whole thread. The problem is that what you describe IS NOT THE EXPOSURE COMPENSATION. It is just setting the shutter or ISO value by the back ring. OK, I agree, this would be more ergonomic. But the whole discussion here goes on about the exposure compensation. Which is a different thing!

[diogenis]

Thanks for that last answer- but actually I don't want to change the style of metering- it was more a design of the camera question- perhaps because I'm still on my steep learning curve- but it feels easier to rotate the ring on the back of the camera whilst I'm looking through the viewfinder than to move the shutter speed dial on top of the camera when trying to get the exposure right.

I thought it seemed like a nice idea to be able to customize the rear wheel so it could change ISO or Shutter speed- purely on an ergonomic level.

 

This mate, won't do it.

It's like wanting to accelerate your car and instead of pushing on the pedal you turn on the wipers, in an effort to divert the wind that hits the windshield

 

Allow me to give you another perspective of what you can do to change exposure instead of rotating the offset ring:

You can either rotate the speed dial OR rotate the Aperture ring! Beware though that the first can introduce shaking while the other can eliminate bokeh.

So, given that you have chosen a speed, you can rotate f/stops and light that red spot. After all your finger is always in that focus lever, so it's also near the aperture ring. Don't forget to check this forum's FAQ for this camera that Jaapv made and has nice info.

 

Also you are right for not wanting to change how this camera meters, because it has chosen the correct method: sometimes you just dont need matrix metering for artistic reasons. This is where you can use manual, or Auto+offset. Other times you can do matrix metering in your head and this is also rewarding for taking truly "hand made" pics.

[lars_bergquist]

Yes, I found the whole thread to be a sequence of non sequiturs – so I assumed (wrongly) that Rick was a complete tyro. I was wrong – he is/was just a member of the "what? manual?" generation.

 

But again, in manual, you meter the significant or critical part of the subject, and set speed and aperture at, above ot below that value as your judgment tells you to do. This is why when shooting Auto and encountering a hairy exposure situation, I immediately switch over to manual to give me that kind of control. And control is a lot more and much better than just "compensation".

 

The impertinent old man from the Age B.M. (Before Meters)

[diogenis]

He also doesn't need any automation.

Check his portfolio. He's got great pics in there! I'm certain he's gonna shine with his M9.

 

Edit: coming from the dSLR world he also wants to have the option of programming that wheel to do anything. But once he understands how simple it is to use those dials in manual, I believe he will never go back...

Edited February 7, 2011 by diogenis

[IkarusJohn]

Agreed. Rotating the dial will change the EV reading, but I don't see the benefit.

 

Say you're looking at a snow scene. You decide you need 2 stops over exposure from a standard reading. You rotate your dial. You still need to make a decision about aperture and shutter speed. You take your picture, and then forget to centre your EV dial and incorrectly expose everything after that. Okay, I would.

 

Conversely, if you leave the exposure meter at a standard setting, you can then adjust either aperture (for depth of field) or shutter speed to suit the scene (okay, I've never understood that Canon AE-1 shutter priority thing).

 

I guess what I don't understand is why add another layer of adjustment. If you genuinely like manual settings, then stay with them - take a standard reading, and adjust either aperture or shutter speed. Don't mess with the meter reading - you like manual, right?

 

Cheers

John

[jpattison]

I thought it seemed like a nice idea to be able to customize the rear wheel so it could change ISO or Shutter speed- purely on an ergonomic level.

 

Aha, now we see!

 

Problem is, most on here view the shutter dial as a mechanically connected device, not an electrical switch!

 

John

[pelagia]

Problem is, most on here view the shutter dial as a mechanically connected device, not an electrical switch! John

 

But M9 it a mechanical, not electrical camera. Or isn't it?

[gib_robinson]

You set compensation by the SET menu on the rear screen, and yes, you are rewarded only by a blinking infernal little dot.

 

Personally, I never use exposure compensation, First, because if I must guess the last third of exposure, then I can damn well guess the rest too. It's simply too haphazard. Second, because it is too awkward and slow.

 

When I know that automatic exposure won't handle the situation, I immediately switch over to manual just by a first finger movement of the shutter dial, and take a precise reading of the appropriate part of the subject – or I use the manual display to set one half or one stop compensation, just as if the camera had been a M6. This is way faster and more professional than the harebrained compensation feature, and you can do it without removing your eye from the finder.

 

The old man from the Age of the Lunasix

 

The exception for me is when I am bracketing exposures for HDR. If the auto exposure is off (as it can be in low light sitatuons) I need to use exposure compensation. I don't know any other way to solve that problem.

[codocee]

Wow!

[tobey bilek]

Shoot M and compensate on the fly.  It is easier to change the lens or shutter than delve into menus where you need to go back for undo.

 

If you are wedded to auto modes,   take the meter reading ,  move the camera to brighter or darker part of the scene, press the shutter half way to hold the change, recompose, take pic.