Problem loading film in the Leica MP

[joecmlin]

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I am new to film Leica and have problems with loading the films. It should be easy but it is not for me. I think I am doing something wrong and need some help.

 

1. the spool: in the MP spool there are 3 metal leaflets that turns. Do I insert the leading end of the film into it (like between 2 metal leaflets) or around it?

2. my 2nd roll did not stop after the last frame. So it just kept going forward after frame 38... then I cannot rewind. I think it is ripped off on the last winding. How can this happen? I had to open it (exposed it) and then used a forceps to remove it.

3. there is no indication that the film is properly loaded like the "turning knob" on the M7, M6 that i have read and viewed on you tube. How can you tell?

 

4. next is How to do longer exposure than 4 seconds on MP? can you give me a website where I can read about it?

[PasMichiel]

I am new to film Leica and have problems with loading the films. It should be easy but it is not for me. I think I am doing something wrong and need some help.

 

1. the spool: in the MP spool there are 3 metal leaflets that turns. Do I insert the leading end of the film into it (like between 2 metal leaflets) or around it?

2. my 2nd roll did not stop after the last frame. So it just kept going forward after frame 38... then I cannot rewind. I think it is ripped off on the last winding. How can this happen? I had to open it (exposed it) and then used a forceps to remove it.

3. there is no indication that the film is properly loaded like the "turning knob" on the M7, M6 that i have read and viewed on you tube. How can you tell?

 

4. next is How to do longer exposure than 4 seconds on MP? can you give me a website where I can read about it?

 

1. between 2 metal leaflets. 1/2 cm I allways bend. And I place the film in the tooth while winding half to tighten the film. then I close the back and bottom and wind the rest. and ones more for the 1st picture. I think you are sure (question 3)

2. Do not wind hard! Gentle is enough, You camera is too strong for the film

4 B

Edited July 16, 2010 by PasMichiel

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[cheewai_m6]

everyone has their technique. i can vouch there is no need to fold the end of the film during loading. however, if you do it, and you believe it's better, then sure.

 

there's a really good video on you tube with a guy loading an mp. he loads in less than 15sec. i now use his technique, which is to hold the camera with the flap open in the right hand. hold the camera upside down, and have your right thumb keeping the flap open, then with the left land, with the film canister half in, pull the film across and into between the 2 leaves. then push the canister and the part of the film sitting over the shutter up so that the spokes line up with the holes on the film.

 

once that's in, you're done. i like to wind the tension up on the film so when i advance the film, the lever turns and confirms the film has been taken in. once again, everyone has their technique and i'm not saying different techniques don't work. they're just different.

 

i practiced on an expired old roll of film many many times in case i ever needed to load up fast. but definitely check on you tube, there's a guy on there who's real fast.

[PasMichiel]

The bending you can see in this film:

 

[richam]

Like you, I had some initial problems with MP film loading. After carefully reading and following the instruction book, it all worked ok. You can check that the film is loaded properly by verifying that the two red dots inside the rewind knob turn when winding. But first, you have to take the slack out of the film canister by turning the rewind knob clockwise until the film is just taut. I usually do this after the first wind, and verify the dots on the second wind.

[stephen.w]

I can also vouch for the Youtube video. After watching it I successfully loaded my first film without a hitch.

[joecmlin]

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everyone has their technique. i can vouch there is no need to fold the end of the film during loading. however, if you do it, and you believe it's better, then sure.

 

there's a really good video on you tube with a guy loading an mp. he loads in less than 15sec. i now use his technique, which is to hold the camera with the flap open in the right hand. hold the camera upside down, and have your right thumb keeping the flap open, then with the left land, with the film canister half in, pull the film across and into between the 2 leaves. then push the canister and the part of the film sitting over the shutter up so that the spokes line up with the holes on the film.

 

once that's in, you're done. i like to wind the tension up on the film so when i advance the film, the lever turns and confirms the film has been taken in. once again, everyone has their technique and i'm not saying different techniques don't work. they're just different.

 

i practiced on an expired old roll of film many many times in case i ever needed to load up fast. but definitely check on you tube, there's a guy on there who's real fast.

 

The MP's lever does not turn, so there is no confirmation this way. I wish the Leica MP manual does specify that the film has to go in between the 2 leaflets..... that is the part this gets me problem.

[joecmlin]

Like you, I had some initial problems with MP film loading. After carefully reading and following the instruction book, it all worked ok. You can check that the film is loaded properly by verifying that the two red dots inside the rewind knob turn when winding. But first, you have to take the slack out of the film canister by turning the rewind knob clockwise until the film is just taut. I usually do this after the first wind, and verify the dots on the second wind.

really!! the red dots turns??? on my successful loads, I had tried to look at the 2 dots really carefully, it doe not turn..

1. load the film, with the leading edge into the 2 leaflets, turn

2. wind the first frame...

3. taut the film by turn the 2 red dot clockwise, gently.

4. wind the next frame (is this the part where the 2 red dot will turn? really?) I had put the MP crank accessory to it....

 

next question, how doe the counter reset to "0", on a 24 or 36 frames films?

thanks for the pointers.

[MAX]

[joecmlin]

1. between 2 metal leaflets. 1/2 cm I allways bend. And I place the film in the tooth while winding half to tighten the film. then I close the back and bottom and wind the rest. and ones more for the 1st picture. I think you are sure (question 3)

2. Do not wind hard! Gentle is enough, You camera is too strong for the film

4 B

 

thanks.

regarding "B"

but how do you calculate out the time you need to expose the film properly, your way.

[richam]

really!! the red dots turns??? on my successful loads, I had tried to look at the 2 dots really carefully, it doe not turn..

1. load the film, with the leading edge into the 2 leaflets, turn

2. wind the first frame...

3. taut the film by turn the 2 red dot clockwise, gently.

4. wind the next frame (is this the part where the 2 red dot will turn? really?) I had put the MP crank accessory to it....

 

next question, how doe the counter reset to "0", on a 24 or 36 frames films?

thanks for the pointers.

 

Check the original youtube video cited above. After the first wind, the rewind knob needs to be pulled up to the rewind position and turned gently until the film is taut. Then drop the knob to it's seated position and you should see the dots turn on the second wind.

[PasMichiel]

thanks.

regarding "B"

but how do you calculate out the time you need to expose the film properly, your way.

 

Several ways. The lens cover (old school )

 

I use the Wire Shutter and count or use my watch.

[pico]

next question, how doe the counter reset to "0", on a 24 or 36 frames films?

thanks for the pointers.

 

You are having a bad day, Joe. All will be clear very soon with a little experience.

 

The counter counts up. It doesn't matter how long the film is. It could even be 12 exposures (remember when they made it that way?) It sets to zero when you remove the base-plate to reload. It is up to you to watch the counter and to stop winding when you reach the end of the film.

 

Regarding calculating exposures longer than 4 seconds, you might want to get a handheld meter, and of course, you should use a cable release.

 

Do you have the instruction manual? If not, you can download it from Leica.

[Xmas]

Hi

 

You need elephants for B, one elephant, two elephant,... they like digestive biscuits.

There used to be a load diagram on the camera base, but it was only for cold weather.

In warm weather take the film all the way through the petals until it touches the far side of the chassis.

Don't crimp or fold the end of film, shards of film will destroy the shutter, they are good for 20-30 years otherwise.

When you drop the film and cassette in to the camera flip open door and hold a sproket hole of film on sprocket shaft tootf with thumb and wind the film back into cassette gently.

Don't push down the rewind knob until you get to frame 1, is rule pre MP, donno what the clutch on MP is like.

 

Noel.

[piblondin]

Like you, I had some initial problems with MP film loading. After carefully reading and following the instruction book, it all worked ok. You can check that the film is loaded properly by verifying that the two red dots inside the rewind knob turn when winding. But first, you have to take the slack out of the film canister by turning the rewind knob clockwise until the film is just taut. I usually do this after the first wind, and verify the dots on the second wind.

 

Does one need to move the rewind thing on the front of the camera to the R position before turning the knob to remove slack?

[250swb]

Does one need to move the rewind thing on the front of the camera to the R position before turning the knob to remove slack?

 

No, don't do that or you will start to rewind the film, you are only supposed to take up the slack so you can get confirmation the two little red dots on the rewind knob turn when you advance the film, thus denoting that the film is traveling through the camera.

 

Steve

[NJH]

M7 is the boss for long exposures. You can watch the seconds counting up in the viewfinder, the numbers are big and bright enough to see from several inches back.

[piblondin]

No, don't do that or you will start to rewind the film, you are only supposed to take up the slack so you can get confirmation the two little red dots on the rewind knob turn when you advance the film, thus denoting that the film is traveling through the camera.

 

Steve

Wouldn't starting to rewind the film also eliminate the slack?

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Piblondin,

 

Rewinding The KNOB with the rewind LEVER pushed down - Allows the take up spool to turn & does NOT allow the film to tighten up - Until you rewind to the beginning of the roll - Where there is resistance from the film caught in the "tulip".

 

This defeats the purpose of stopping the film from returning to the cartridge after 2 exposure lengths have been drawn out.

 

Slack is properly eliminated by stopping the "tulip" from rotating & drawing excess film back into the cartridge. The dots stopping moving means that the excess has been rewound.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited November 3, 2015 by Michael Geschlecht

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Hallo,

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[piblondin]

Hello Piblondin,

 

Rewinding The KNOB with the rewind LEVER pushed down - Allows the take up spool to turn & does NOT allow the film to tighten up - Until you rewind to the beginning of the roll - Where there is resistance from the film caught in the "tulip".

 

This defeats the purpose of stopping the film from returning to the cartridge after 2 exposure lengths have been drawn out.

 

Slack is properly eliminated by stopping the "tulip" from rotating & drawing excess film back into the cartridge. The dots stopping moving means that the excess has been rewound.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Got it. Thank you for the explanation!