$5 Japanese Split Prism Focusing Bright Screen for m9 SLR

[jaques]

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OK- I got really bored waiting for my M9 to arrive so I collected an entire Visoflex set up- a Viso III, oubio ring, universal focusing mount and some viso compatible Leica lenses: 65 Macro Elmar, Elmarit 90, Tele Elmar 135 and Telyt 200... all for an absolute song...

 

playing with the Visoflex helped pass the time- but I wasn't happy with the dull brightscreen. I took t apart and cleaned it- big improvement- but still not good enough...

 

I looked on the net and found visoflex brightscreens for around 200USD...

 

bugger that I thought. I though about making my own and looked that up... I needed to buy some fine grit... too hard.

 

I had a brain wave- I grabbed a broken worthless Nikon F-301 SLR for $5- and ripped it to pieces- taking it apart when you don't care about putting it back together takes just minutes and is very satisfying. You also get a lot of little scres for you screw jar... Tearing out the guts- deep inside I found the treasure- a beautiful little brightscreen with split microprism and spot meter circle marking.

 

 

I took apart the Viso for the third time- the Nikon screen fit- near perfect! It was a little thinner than the original Leica glass- so I fitted a little strip of lightseal fabric inside the viso freznel housing to ensure the fit was perfect- and the etched underside of the brightscreen was flat at the 'focal plane' distance... screwed it all back together- and hey presto! Split prism brightscreen focusing for my Visoflex- amazing improvement- must be several stops of brightness. The view through the finder is now crystal clear and bright- I can't wait to try our my 135 and 200mm lenses on the m9! who said a rangefinder is not meant for those lengths... The view is actually better than through many DSLR's- perfect for manual focusing, and the split prism helps a great deal.

 

Now my Visoflex is waiting- the M9 full frame DSLR/Rangefinder is due next Tuesday...

sweeet.

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Edited December 18, 2009 by jaques

[jaapv]

Very nice! I replaced the screen on one of my Visoflexes with a Brightscreen one but that was not very satisfactory on account of a hot spot. I have a DMR one in now for use with my M8, but I might try this one it looks great The other Viso I kept original, and to be fair, after putting the glass in an utrasonic cleaner, it brightened up considerably as well.

Edited December 18, 2009 by jaapv

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[jaques]

It is true- I carefully cleaned my leica glass screen- and it did brighten up a good deal...

 

But there is just no comparison to this Nikon screen. Thinking about it I imagine you could get a good screen out of any quality 1970's-90's SLR- the viso screen mount has a fair bit of room at the edges and the screen is thick- most SLR's will have a screen just marginally smaller- and always thinner. Minolta are famed for their brightscreens and I feel confident this Nikon one is nearly as bright as you can get...

 

I have a heap of broken SLR's- I could go into business getting the screens out... even though some of these cameras were top rate it isn't economical to have them repaired.

Edited December 18, 2009 by jaques

[jaques]

How closely would the markings correspond to the M9's spot meter?

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[adan]

Very cool!

 

I bought a Nikon N2000 (US equivalent) to use with 20-85 lenses back in 1986 precisely because it was then what the M9 is today 25 years later - a compact, motor-incorporated, aggressively manual-focus camera. I wish Nikon had made a "pro" version with more metal in the body, but by the time they did, with the F4 or F100, AF had screwed things up, viewfinder-wise. (plus the F4 was a monster).

[wlaidlaw]

It looks unfortunately as if I may have to pay as much as £6 for an F301. Jaques, do I assume correctly that the light tight seal fits on the top side of the new screen. I have not taken my Viso apart yet. Is there a gasket (paper or otherwise) between the housing and the current Leica screen? The results look great. I was trying to focus my 280/4.8 Telyt today in not very good light and the Viso is pretty dim.

 

Wilson

[jaques]

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It looks unfortunately as if I may have to pay as much as £6 for an F301. Jaques, do I assume correctly that the light tight seal fits on the top side of the new screen. I have not taken my Viso apart yet. Is there a gasket (paper or otherwise) between the housing and the current Leica screen? The results look great. I was trying to focus my 280/4.8 Telyt today in not very good light and the Viso is pretty dim.

 

Wilson

You don't need an f-301- I would say any Minolta or Nikon camera from the 90's should do- theoretically the better the camera the better the screen. But I can guarantee the f301 will go well... All you need is one Philips head- just keep undoing every screw you see- tearing at everything- removing the camera leather and snapping any wires that get in you way- once you free the prism just break out the screen!

 

I would hate to think you would kill a working camera for that little screen- but at six bob it's worth it.

 

When you take apart the visoflex- do it in a small box- when you release the screen- two ball bearings and springs can/will fall/jump out. They will jump out and escape onto the floor requiring an exhaustive search with a magnet...You simply remove the four screws visible in my images above- taking note that one is shorter- and then wiggle the top plate off evenly- noting the two pins at the front. I used the edge of my driver to gently ease it off- taking care to do it evenly. Once removed invert the entire housing and you should have 2 bearings, 2 springs and two little plastic spring seat thingies. Put aside...

 

Once removed the Viso glass is free: there is no gasket or any kind- just a nice fit. This is where we are in luck: the Leica screen is marginally bigger than it needs to be- with a broad machined 'bay' around the edges that it seats into. The Nikon screen was fractionally smaller- tight set into a plastic housing- and considerably thinner (o.02?). It had sharp corners as opposed to the Leica's which is rounded. I used a file to take of the corners (very easy- 10 seconds). Afterwards I realised this may not have been neccesary.

 

I carefully applied a very thin strip of cotton light seal material with an adhesive backing right into the 90degree corners of the seat all the way round taking care to push it away from the edges so I would have a clean frame. I guess you could use anything as the shim/stabiliser. Then you simply fit the screen etched side downwards- and make sure when reinstalled the screen will be gently and evenly pushed flat against the body below. I had to add a little extra seal material at the ends to perfectly cencer the screen. If you look careful on my pictures you can see the screen is resting a bit below where it would be with the Leica glass. As soon as I get the M9 I will test the critical focus- but I don't see any problem.

 

I found the easiest way to reinstall was to reseat the springs- place the bearings on top and carefully lower the top into position...

 

all done. Having the microprism focusing is much easier than the leica screen- I am loving the view through the Viso now.

Edited December 18, 2009 by jaques

[gyoung]

Very cool!

 

I bought a Nikon N2000 (US equivalent) to use with 20-85 lenses back in 1986 precisely because it was then what the M9 is today 25 years later - a compact, motor-incorporated, aggressively manual-focus camera. I wish Nikon had made a "pro" version with more metal in the body, but by the time they did, with the F4 or F100, AF had screwed things up, viewfinder-wise. (plus the F4 was a monster).

 

 

I have fitted a Beattie screen to an F90, with grid and split image, now the AF is turned off and I can get accuarate focus

 

.......even with visoflex lenses

 

I'll have to look out for a 301, or have a look at the screens for the FM2 I have, they might fit the Viso

 

Gerry

[wlaidlaw]

Jaques,

 

I have a roll of self amalgamating rubber tape that I have found makes great seals and gaskets. I would think a narrow strip of that would do the job. Now to bid for the 301. I have no conscience about this one as it has a hole in the base, where the tripod mount has been ripped out. Thanks for the tip about the springs and detent balls. I have spent too many hours scrabbling round my garage floor looking for small parts, when on undoing something, it explodes springs and other bits in your face.

 

Wilson

 

Wilson

[jaapv]

You don't need an f-301- I would say any Minolta or Nikon camera from the 90's should do- theoretically the better the camera the better the screen. But I can guarantee the f301 will go well... All you need is one Philips head- just keep undoing every screw you see- tearing at everything- removing the camera leather and snapping any wires that get in you way- once you free the prism just break out the screen!

 

I would hate to think you would kill a working camera for that little screen- but at six bob it's worth it.

 

When you take apart the visoflex- do it in a small box- when you release the screen- two ball bearings and springs can/will fall/jump out. They will jump out and escape onto the floor requiring an exhaustive search with a magnet...You simply remove the four screws visible in my images above- taking note that one is shorter- and then wiggle the top plate off evenly- noting the two pins at the front. I used the edge of my driver to gently ease it off- taking care to do it evenly. Once removed invert the entire housing and you should have 2 bearings, 2 springs and two little plastic spring seat thingies. Put aside...

 

Once removed the Viso glass is free: there is no gasket or any kind- just a nice fit. This is where we are in luck: the Leica screen is marginally bigger than it needs to be- with a broad machined 'bay' around the edges that it seats into. The Nikon screen was fractionally smaller- tight set into a plastic housing- and considerably thinner (o.02?). It had sharp corners as opposed to the Leica's which is rounded. I used a file to take of the corners (very easy- 10 seconds). Afterwards I realised this may not have been neccesary.

 

I carefully applied a very thin strip of cotton light seal material with an adhesive backing right into the 90degree corners of the seat all the way round taking care to push it away from the edges so I would have a clean frame. I guess you could use anything as the shim/stabiliser. Then you simply fit the screen etched side downwards- and make sure when reinstalled the screen will be gently and evenly pushed flat against the body below. I had to add a little extra seal material at the ends to perfectly cencer the screen. If you look careful on my pictures you can see the screen is resting a bit below where it would be with the Leica glass. As soon as I get the M9 I will test the critical focus- but I don't see any problem.

 

I found the easiest way to reinstall was to reseat the springs- place the bearings on top and carefully lower the top into position...

 

all done. Having the microprism focusing is much easier than the leica screen- I am loving the view through the Viso now.

A few points:

The top might be quite tight on the locating pins. It may be you have to lever it off. In that case take care not to damage the adjustment shims. The locating pins are friction-fit in the Visoflex. They may come out with the top or just shift a bit upwards. You will have to push them down all the way or you might be stuck with a prism that mysteriously refuses to mount.

[stephan_w]

that's pretty cool........... I always thought how to improve the visoflex focussing.

 

My question: Will a Nikon F3 or F4 glas do it? They are easy to get in nearly every variant.

[adan]

The Nikon pro (F2/F3/F4) screens are very thick, because they also include a condenser lens on top, but the FM/FE/FA screens that change through the lens mount rather then through a removable prism might be thin enough.

[wlaidlaw]

A few points:

The top might be quite tight on the locating pins. It may be you have to lever it off. In that case take care not to damage the adjustment shims. The locating pins are friction-fit in the Visoflex. They may come out with the top or just shift a bit upwards. You will have to push them down all the way or you might be stuck with a prism that mysteriously refuses to mount.

 

Jaap,

 

Thanks for the tip. A gentle heat with a hair dryer might help.

 

Wilson

[jaques]

Hmm,

I saw that f-301 on ebay with the hole in the baseplate.... I actually have all the parts you would need to fix that camera now... great new baseplate. I don't think that hole is from the tripod being ripped out- as the trip hole is right down at the end. Looks like corrosion to me- pretty bad at that- and probably indicates the battery compartment is a complete mess.

 

I have handled a few F-301's and they use 4 aaa batteries- which are often the death of the camera via leaking acid... For that reason i should imagine a few broken ones will come up from time to time on ebay.

 

I think I will gig out another broken SLR and pull it down just to see what type of screen it has.

[wlaidlaw]

Hmm,

I saw that f-301 on ebay with the hole in the baseplate.... I actually have all the parts you would need to fix that camera now... great new baseplate. I don't think that hole is from the tripod being ripped out- as the trip hole is right down at the end. Looks like corrosion to me- pretty bad at that- and probably indicates the battery compartment is a complete mess.

 

I have handled a few F-301's and they use 4 aaa batteries- which are often the death of the camera via leaking acid... For that reason i should imagine a few broken ones will come up from time to time on ebay.

 

I think I will gig out another broken SLR and pull it down just to see what type of screen it has.

 

Jaques,

 

I am very friendly with my superb local camera repairer, who has a huge stock of old parts. If you can tell me the size of the required screen, I can phone him and ask him to look in his spares room to see what he has. I don't want to tear down my Viso until I have a screen in hand. I have to admit that I don't really like destroying a camera, just to get a screen.

 

Wilson

[jaques]

hmmm,

well I am thinking that these screens are all pretty much the same size: the size of a 35mm negative. I would have to pull apart my viso again to measure it for you...

 

I wouldn't feel too bad about tearing apart a camera that is broken - and any camera tech should have some lying around.

[Guest mc_k]

sorry for the naive question, but I have seen the Visoflex for sale without a magnifier. Can you use it bare or with a loupe, or do you need the magnifier? thanks

[jaapv]

sorry for the naive question, but I have seen the Visoflex for sale without a magnifier. Can you use it bare or with a loupe, or do you need the magnifier? thanks

What do you mean with a magnifier? It normally has a pentaprism fitted to the top, which can be replaced by a straight finder.

[wlaidlaw]

What do you mean with a magnifier? It normally has a pentaprism fitted to the top, which can be replaced by a straight finder.

 

Jaap,

 

I think the OP meant could you use it like a waist level finder, without either the vertical magnifier or the pentaprism. The answer is yes but it would not work very well and it would be difficult to achieve accurate focus. It is difficult enough on my Rolleiflex in anything other than good light and that has a screen of about four times the area. On the Rolleiflex, you often need to flick up the built in magnifier to get 100% accurate focus.

 

Wilson

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Hallo,

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[Guest mc_k]

What do you mean ...

 

This was a Viso I, looking much like the piece in the picture above, missing either type of finder. I was wondering if it could be used without a finder, just to play around a little before investing in all of the Viso III, adapters, etc. I would put a Novoflex bellows on the front end.

 

EDIT: got my answer, thanks.

Edited December 19, 2009 by mckeough_k