Jump to content

Leica mountaineers & climbers


pgk

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

More out of curiosity than anything elseI wondered just how much Leica RF cameras have been used by mountaineers, climbers, hill walkers and the like? I realise that they are often regarded as a 'street' photographer's tool, but as an avid browser in secondhand book shops I am forever coming across old books on mountains, hills, national parks, etc., and I wonder how many images may have been shot on lightweight RF Leicas. Some are - such as the images by W A Poucher - but I'm sure others used similar cameras in the hills. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Paul,

 

I can't imagine that the leica were not used, I have been scanning my grand fathers negatives, and find him hiking in Greenland, boating, climbing etc. I just posted some of his images in the people forum http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/people/106917-1958-greenland-hp.html

 

He put his cameras as much in harms way as I do, and probably more. :D

 

 

.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am an AVID mountaineer and climber (expecially when younger, about climbing... :o), have always had interest in history of mountaineering and have several books about: well, Leica is undoubtly part of the history of mountaineering photography, for it was the first really LIGHT camera that could be carried with in certain situations, with excellent results in term of quality and resistance to weather, cold etc...

I have a nice volume on history of photo in mountains in which the Author clearly writes that a certain kind of "action pictures" that started to be published in the '30s, at the times of the rush to 6th grade climbings, is definitely due to the availability of the Leica. Many pics of those years shows famous climbers with Leica in their hands ; one has also to consider that in the '30s there was a specific breed of top climbers coming from Germany (and Italy, indeed) - see the big wins in the famous "North faces problems" (Eiger - Matterhorn - Gr. Jorasses).

You know, there has been also an old Leitz lens (Elmar 10,5 cm f 6,3) that is commonly called the "Alpine Elmar" because it was advertised as an excellent tele lens for mountaineering... very light and portable, and the Leica brochure specified that its limited max aperture "is not a problem at high altitudes, for the strong light that usually one enjoys in such environments".

 

BTW, I recently bought in Paris an old and rare book : the official report of the French expedition that "made" the first 8000 (Annapurna, Herzog - Lachenal, 1950) ; at the end page, a small note details that the photos are taken with a FOCA Camera... the French sister of Leica that had a short but honorable story in the '50s...

Edited by luigi bertolotti
Link to post
Share on other sites

Willi Unsoeld used an M3 (I think rather than an M4 which he also owned) to document his first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest with Tom Hornbein in 1963. Many of the photos in Hornbein's famous book- Everest- The West Ridge were taken with Willi's Leica.

 

A few years ago, Willi's widow Jolene, who still has his cameras, told me Willi said the M3 (?) performed perfectly despite being hauled over the top of Everest slung over his neck and out of its case. Hornbein and Unsoeld were also the first to traverse Everest.

Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, I recently bought in Paris an old and rare book : the official report of the French expedition that "made" the first 8000 (Annapurna, Herzog - Lachenal, 1950) ; at the end page, a small note details that the photos are taken with a FOCA Camera... the French sister of Leica that had a short but honorable story in the '50s...

 

One of my treasured climbing books is an original 1952 edition of Herzog's book. Was it originally published in English? There is no mention of a translator's note. Mine isn't in mint condition and probably isn't worth anything but I love it for it's photos and elegant fold-out map.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe Barry Bishop used them on the same Everst expedition as Unsoeld and Hornbein (I think Tom used a Nikon F). At least the second Canadian Everest Expedition (if not the first) also used both Leica M's and R's (not b/c of the commemorative model - but b/c a friend used them on the 2nd climb).

As others have said there are no doubt many more examples

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

One of my treasured climbing books is an original 1952 edition of Herzog's book. Was it originally published in English? There is no mention of a translator's note. Mine isn't in mint condition and probably isn't worth anything but I love it for it's photos and elegant fold-out map.

 

The one I found is not the Herzog's book , which I red, even if haven't it : there is one at my local Alpine Club section... btw I seem it originated some disputations, after publishing, by Lachenal and Terray... ; mine is the "official" CAF-published report of the expedition.... I found it last autumn in one of those delicious small used bookshops in Paris, near the Pantheon...

Edited by luigi bertolotti
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the information everyone. I'm surprised that not more has been made of the Leica M as a 'mountain' camera given its weight and size. I'm fascinated by the relative lack of change in some upland areas and often see pictures similar to those I've shot recently in quite old books. Having tried to 'retake' old photographs, its a great deal easier if you know what camera and lens were originally used (especially as many early postcard photographers used 'rising front' as a matter of course). I'll keep browsing the bookshops!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Chris Bonington has a gorgeous array of well-used Leicas and equally well-used lenses in a drawer in his office. Alongside them are some brassy old OM cameras and lenses. He must have used Leicas on his early climbs in the 60s and the Olys on later ones into the 70s.....but a lot of his later mountain pix were on an Oly XA.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Chris Bonington has a gorgeous array of well-used Leicas and equally well-used lenses in a drawer in his office. Alongside them are some brassy old OM cameras and lenses. He must have used Leicas on his early climbs in the 60s and the Olys on later ones into the 70s.....but a lot of his later mountain pix were on an Oly XA.

 

I remember reading an article by him in Amateur Photographer back in the '80s; by that time he was already sponsored by Olympus having been given OM-1s for his '75 Everest expedition, but in the article he said if ever he was being paid to take photos in the mountains the only camera he would rely on was the Leica M4.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Leica pioneer Stephan Kruckenhauser was maybe more of a skier than a climber, but he took quite some summit pictures with his Leicas in the 1930's. 'Kruck' got M3 no. 700,000 presented to him. (It was manufactured in 1955 and retro-numbered; the count started on 700,001 of course.)

 

The old man from the Screwy Age

Link to post
Share on other sites

Austrian legend Herbert Tichy used a Leica - as can be seen in Kisselbachs Leica-Buch from 1957

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Leica pioneer Stephan Kruckenhauser was maybe more of a skier than a climber, but he took quite some summit pictures with his Leicas in the 1930's. 'Kruck' got M3 no. 700,000 presented to him. (It was manufactured in 1955 and retro-numbered; the count started on 700,001 of course.)

Kruckenhauser elaborated quite a bit on the Leica as a mountaineer's camera. Two of his books (see covers below) are still worthwhile reading today and provide some interesting insights into the spirit and standards of outdoor photography at the time.

 

http://www.tirol.gv.at/uploads/pics/buch04_01.jpg

http://www.tirol.gv.at/uploads/pics/buch01_01.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

not to forget Austro-Italian Director Luis Trenker and Nazi-bitch Leni Riefenstahl, who both were mountaineers Both used leicas from the 1930s on - i saw Trenkers camera for sale in the 1970s: A Leica A with Elmar and 135mm lens, both non-standarised. Riefenstahl used a IIIa, which is on the backcover of her book "5 lives"

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...