Einst_Stein Posted January 25, 2015 Share #1 Posted January 25, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Leica will replace corrosive CCD for free or offer good trade in program to replace the corrosive M9 with M240. My M9 is free of this problem, so this does not apply to me. Does Leica has any trade in program for a good M9 to M240? I wish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 Hi Einst_Stein, Take a look here Trade in M9 for M240. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
wda Posted January 25, 2015 Share #2 Posted January 25, 2015 Where do you live? Try your local main Leica dealer. Trade-ins are nearly always possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted January 25, 2015 Share #3 Posted January 25, 2015 Sure you can trade. Maybe 60% of current retail value. So it is a $4000 upgrade. Bad deal in my opinion. If you get a bad sensor, then Leica will repair free. But check with your dealer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke_Miller Posted January 25, 2015 Share #4 Posted January 25, 2015 Don't know if my dealer in California (Popflash) accepts trade ins, but Tony does a lot of consignment sales. When I bought my M9 from him, he listed my M8.2 on his website and it sold in a couple of weeks. He takes a commission and you receive the balance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 25, 2015 Share #5 Posted January 25, 2015 Don't know if my dealer in California (Popflash) accepts trade ins, but Tony does a lot of consignment sales. And their commission policy is outstanding compared to most….buyer receives 87% of sales price if item sold in first 2 weeks, 80% thereafter. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted January 25, 2015 What seems interesting to me in M240 is the capability of the movie mode and the R adaptibility and live review. It is hard to tell how much I would really use those yet. I have thought about those features for a while, but never reached the point to take actual move. To get almost the same capability, I can simply get a Canon 5Dx or 6D, and it only cost more or less $2k. yes, it will mean one more camera bodies, a clumsy extra, but I am OK to see the bright side to take it as a spare system. I am looking for no more than $2K for this project, but I guess it is not possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 25, 2015 Share #7 Posted January 25, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Plus: Decent shutter, upgraded range/viewfinder, better framelines, improved image quality, generally more mature camera. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 26, 2015 Share #8 Posted January 26, 2015 …and better battery, better weather sealing, faster processor and fewer reported issues. The shutter is both quieter (less re-cock noise) and smoother release action. And the frame lines are better both because of internal illumination (and red/white color selection) and optimization for 2m (vs 1m for the M9). It's better as an RF camera….quieter and more robust...even if one never uses video, EVF or LV. And even if LV isn't used for pics, it's useful for quick camera/lens focus calibration checks. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulus Posted January 26, 2015 Share #9 Posted January 26, 2015 I traded my M9 to an M more than a year ago. I believe it was a very good deal then. Marvelous camera! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fore Posted January 26, 2015 Share #10 Posted January 26, 2015 …and better battery, better weather sealing, faster processor and fewer reported issues. The shutter is both quieter (less re-cock noise) and smoother release action. And the frame lines are better both because of internal illumination (and red/white color selection) and optimization for 2m (vs 1m for the M9). It's better as an RF camera….quieter and more robust...even if one never uses video, EVF or LV. And even if LV isn't used for pics, it's useful for quick camera/lens focus calibration checks. Jeff Jeff, I've read this 1m optimization before but have no idea what it means. Can you please tell me how '2m' is better than than 1m? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 26, 2015 Share #11 Posted January 26, 2015 Jeff, I've read this 1m optimization before but have no idea what it means. Can you please tell me how '2m' is better than than 1m? FAQ As explained, frame lines can only be accurate (optimized) at one distance. It's not that 2m is 'better' for everybody, but for most like me who tend not to shoot 'close up' most often, the 2m distance allows more of the intended scene to fall within the respective lines. People certainly can learn and adjust to to whatever Leica uses, but I prefer when the tool helps provide a better starting place or, shall we say, 'frame of reference'. For me, Leica got it right with the 2m lines on the M8.2, and figured that out with the new M240 after using 1m for the M9 (the M8 was .7m) BTW, this should not be confused with the 2m distance that Leica uses for the virtual distance of the focusing patch. Jeff 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted January 27, 2015 With the given M9 quality, all the mentioned extra advantages are only secondary to me. Those features are good to have, but not worth such big trouble yet. Sure, sometimes a millimeter is a millimeter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 27, 2015 Share #13 Posted January 27, 2015 Those features are good to have, but not worth such big trouble yet. So why did you start the thread by saying "I wish" with respect to a switch? Did you not understand the differences? Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share #14 Posted January 27, 2015 I wish Leica to have a good trade in program, something costs not much more than $2K, but after I realized it may mean $4K extra, then not worth it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 27, 2015 Share #15 Posted January 27, 2015 You probably could split the cost difference by selling wisely and searching for a deal on the M (maybe for a demo with warranty). Comes down to personal preference and perceived value. Or, you could hang out in humid climates, clean your sensor often, and regularly check for delamination. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fore Posted January 27, 2015 Share #16 Posted January 27, 2015 FAQ As explained, frame lines can only be accurate (optimized) at one distance. It's not that 2m is 'better' for everybody, but for most like me who tend not to shoot 'close up' most often, the 2m distance allows more of the intended scene to fall within the respective lines. People certainly can learn and adjust to to whatever Leica uses, but I prefer when the tool helps provide a better starting place or, shall we say, 'frame of reference'. For me, Leica got it right with the 2m lines on the M8.2, and figured that out with the new M240 after using 1m for the M9 (the M8 was .7m) BTW, this should not be confused with the 2m distance that Leica uses for the virtual distance of the focusing patch. Jeff Thanks Jeff. So, am I right in thinking then you just get more image within a frame at less than 2m?...and really, it also kind of gives you a 'margin of error' in your compositional frame? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted January 27, 2015 You probably could split the cost difference by selling wisely and searching for a deal on the M (maybe for a demo with warranty). Comes down to personal preference and perceived value. Or, you could hang out in humid climates, clean your sensor often, and regularly check for delamination. Jeff It seems your are over exaggerated. No, the difference between M and M9 is not worth thd trouble of selling, searching, buying. The time and efforts will be better used to take more pictures. Are you working or living in jungle? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 27, 2015 Share #18 Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) It seems your are over exaggerated. No, the difference between M and M9 is not worth thd trouble of selling, searching, buying. The time and efforts will be better used to take more pictures. Are you working or living in jungle? What are you talking about? I don't care one iota if you switch or not, nor was I making any such case. By split the difference, I simply meant that IF you decided to switch, you could probably do it for about $3000, in between the $2k and $4k you mentioned. The humidity comment was strictly in jest. Get it, "Einstein"? Jeff Edited January 27, 2015 by Jeff S Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 27, 2015 Share #19 Posted January 27, 2015 Thanks Jeff. So, am I right in thinking then you just get more image within a frame at less than 2m?...and really, it also kind of gives you a 'margin of error' in your compositional frame? You could look at it that way, although people who tend to shoot closer, with more accuracy, may prefer the older .7m frame lines. There's no right or wrong, only what gives your comfort. Some think this is much ado about nothing, even quite humorous. The 2m lines work best for me. YMMV. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenshacker Posted January 28, 2015 Share #20 Posted January 28, 2015 The framelines of the M9 and M Monochrom work out for me- I use an 85mm lens with the 75mm framelines, and a 100mm and 105mm with the 90mm framelines. With CCD vs CMOS- M8 vs M9, etc- stick with the camera that gives you the results that you like using a process that you are happy with. I don't like spending time processing the image after it is taken, prefer putting the work into "pre-processing". With the M Monochrom, selecting a color filter and lens. With the M9- picking the lens for it. I have a lot of lenses, takes some processing time to select one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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