leffe Posted February 23, 2010 Share #1 Posted February 23, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Shooting interiors with the M9 - Any tips are highly appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 23, 2010 Posted February 23, 2010 Hi leffe, Take a look here M9 - Upcoming Interior Shooting Assignment - Please give tips. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Peyton Hoge Posted February 23, 2010 Share #2 Posted February 23, 2010 Shooting interiors with the M9 - Any tips are highly appreciated. Thanks For starters....a sturdy tripod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 24, 2010 Share #3 Posted February 24, 2010 I would suggest that the M9 is not the ideal tool for the purpose. A DSLR with a TS lens would do better imo. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bybrett Posted February 24, 2010 Share #4 Posted February 24, 2010 Manual white balance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d2mini Posted February 24, 2010 Share #5 Posted February 24, 2010 I would suggest that the M9 is not the ideal tool for the purpose. A DSLR with a TS lens would do better imo. Even a good dslr without a TS would be better than the M9. I would always choose my D700 over my M9 for an interior shoot. If this is not an option, then I second the tripod. Wide angle lens, something between 14-24. Low shutterspeed, f/8-11, not too high on the iso on the M9... 400 or lower. Either bring in lighting or shoot hdr. Shoot raw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
likalar Posted February 24, 2010 Share #6 Posted February 24, 2010 A small level and a cable release. Small flashlite if it will be a dark interior. A laptop and card reader (with extra cards and batteries), a backup kit, a good assistant, and decent food. Larry Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithdunlop Posted February 24, 2010 Share #7 Posted February 24, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have to concur with the other posters that the M9 (or any rangefinder for that matter) is really not the right tool for interior architectural photography. This kind of work requires the kind of precise framing and perspective control that no rangefinder can provide. I used to do architectural work for a living, so I know something of what I speak. A DSLR with a TS lens, or a 4x5 film camera are better choices for a number of reasons. Even without a TS lens, you can correct line convergence in PS, but I'm an advocate of getting it right in the camera first. This certainly isn't a knock on the M9 or rangefinders. It's just a matter of what the proper tool is for architectural photography. It might help to know what your client's finished product requirement is. Also, lighting is a critical component to successful professional interior architectural work. Depending on the room, you have to balance the outputs of multiple lights to account for the affect of furniture and room shape on the ambient light. Then there's the issue of gelling windows, etc. But again, your client's image requirements would need to be known before giving any significant specific advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted February 24, 2010 Share #8 Posted February 24, 2010 Um... Forgive me for being a tad pedantic, but there is some great advice coming out here in answer to a one-liner question that people are making some fundamental assumptions to answer. As Keith says, what does the client want? Perhaps the OP can give some further background - type of interiors, client requirement/brief, lighting conditions, time and access constraints - otherwise advice given may, whilst being interesting (certainly to me) be wide of the mark for the OP's needs. Regards, Bil 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_tribble Posted February 24, 2010 Share #9 Posted February 24, 2010 Shooting interiors with the M9 - Any tips are highly appreciated. Thanks Hi - agree with others that more information is needed. Are you shooting people in interiors - so is the question to do with working in artificial light, or are you shooting the INTERIOR itself - then the comments of others re T/S lenses etc is relevant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overgaard Posted February 24, 2010 Share #10 Posted February 24, 2010 (edited) You can shoot interior with any camera you want. First rule is to keep it vertical so vertical lines are straight. And preferable also keep it center so horizontal lines are straight and horizontal as well. I've shot loads of interiors and exteriors with the D2 handheld leica.overgaard.dk - The "Knold & Tot" buildings at Dalgas Avenue in Aarhus, Denmark I would not be worried shooting interiors with the M9 using a wide angle and a medium and tele lens. It's the lines you have to keep an eye on when shooting. And when you don't get them straigh, you can align that in Lightroom by rotating the images. Provided that the vertical lines (with-) in the pictures are aligned and vertical. Handheld is a nice way to shoot interiors. Tripod is a mess. If you go low in shutter speed, use a monopod and lean against a wall or something. But you can move better around and get into the small corners, up high and down low, with a handheld or monopod camera. Edited February 24, 2010 by overgaardcom 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wattsy Posted February 24, 2010 Share #11 Posted February 24, 2010 The M9 is fine, as is any other half decent camera. Worry about the lighting because that is what separates the good architectural photographers from the hacks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted February 24, 2010 Share #12 Posted February 24, 2010 If you're seeking the best detail for a large print, use the M9 on a tripod in the vertical/portrait position, enabling the use of a longer lens and then stitch resulting images. Swing around the Nodal point and overlap by about 15%. Use manual white balance and manual exposure. This will give you medium format quality. If it's just a 6x4" brochure shot you need, shoot it handheld, auto everything. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffreyTotaro Posted February 24, 2010 Share #13 Posted February 24, 2010 I shoot architecture and interiors professionally using medium format digital. If you have only an M9 available for this shoot, its actually a better tool than many may think. The biggest advantage are the lenses have very little distortion compared to many DSLR lenses. Although the new Canon 24 & 17 TSE lenses are pretty great. One big tip if you're not used to this sort of shooting it to always bracket with the shutter. Bracketing with aperture will change the magnification of the image and if you try to layer exposures together in photoshop they will not register together perfectly. Good luck with it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brill64 Posted February 24, 2010 Share #14 Posted February 24, 2010 a tripod, a little green spirit-level, enough lighting or at least some additional lighting and a sandwich. that's a really good tip about bracketing with shutter speed, btw.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
downstairs Posted February 24, 2010 Share #15 Posted February 24, 2010 (edited) Rolo says it right. Stitch! Three vertical with a 35mm lens will give you MF quality. Adobe Stitcher (ex RealViz) will also take care of perspective. Use a simple DIY bracket with a precise nodal point. At worst, use one of the lighter QTVR brackets (a real PIA). With a qtvr bracket you could even do two rows with a 50mm indoors. Problem: unlike DSLR's, you can't find the nodal point with a rangefinder so you must get Leica to tell you where it is for your lens and measure carefully. Edited February 24, 2010 by downstairs 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted February 25, 2010 Share #16 Posted February 25, 2010 Ah well, I did OK with an M6 for publication in the newspaper and my book. Available light is good, but watch for patchy, uneven lighting and dark corners of a room. A little bit of flash or extra illumination can help. Switch house lights on. Avoid keystoning. A level is useful. Point the camera at a place on the wall that's approx. the same height as the viewfinder as a guide. And, of course, use a tripod. 21 or even 24mm lens is fine. Eliminate distracting details such as power cables, messy coffee table clutter. Choose interesting angles but don't try to pack it all in to the frame. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
downstairs Posted February 25, 2010 Share #17 Posted February 25, 2010 ...Available light is good, but watch for patchy, uneven lighting and dark corners of a room... A degrad filter put on sideways is useful for evening out the light between the widow side and the dark side of the room. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlatkob Posted February 25, 2010 Share #18 Posted February 25, 2010 (edited) I don't know whether it makes any practical difference, but this Wikipedia article states that the correct pivot point for panoramic photography is the system's entrance pupil, not the nodal point: Cardinal point (optics) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia This article also states the same: http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/techtutorials/technotes/nodalptalign-tn.html Edited February 25, 2010 by zlatkob Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
downstairs Posted February 25, 2010 Share #19 Posted February 25, 2010 I don't know whether it makes any practical difference, but this Wikipedia article states that the correct pivot point for panoramic photography is the system's entrance pupil, not the nodal point:Cardinal point (optics) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia This article also states the same: Virtual Reality Photography - Entrance Pupil (Nodal Point) Alignment Tech Note Thanks! This is news to me, but great news because the entrance pupil is published by Leica in the technical specifications for each lens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
240user Posted October 11, 2014 Share #20 Posted October 11, 2014 I shoot interiors everyday for AD, Elle Decor and the like and use my M240, a 24 Elmar and a 50 summilux. Great feel and everyone loves the pictures ! Its not always about being 'correct'. Sometimes it's just beautiful pictures. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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