Rangefinder Vertical Adjustment

[gwelland]

Has anyone successfully modified their vertical RF adjustment with the M8?

I've seen the adjuster behind the red dot and information about needing a special tool from Leica but it looks as though you could adjust it using other approaches/tools. Has anyone tried this?

The vertical alignment in one of my M8's is very slightly out but otherwise perfectly aligned and adjusted for horizontal alignment/focus. If it's easy to correct I'll do it vs sending off the camera again.

Anyone?

[Eoin]

Yes, I had reason to make such an adjustment to my own M8. If you have a look at Mark Norton's thread Anatomy of the Leica M8 which I've robbed the image below from you'll see that without the correct tool adjustment is quite difficult. (Mark I hope you don't mind me using the image)

I managed to release the red dot which had just been freshly applied by leica, by turning it left and right with two cut cocktail sticks. Once the dot is removed I used fine flat head screw driver to move up or down the slider.

The hole in the picture is meant to accept the correct tool which has an elliptical cam which when turned would move this slider up or down. It's not a procedure I'd recommend you do, I have faith in my own mechanical abilities and frustration born from having the camera just returned from Solms where the vertical alignment was to be checked as part of the sensor replacement work being carried out. Needless to say it came back in such a state that everyone I focused on had 4 eyes, 2 noses and 2 mouths. I really thought service were taking the piss with me.

Anyway It's fixed now, the red dot stuck back on and focus is spot on, it took me about an hour to get it right with a little sweating in between. Not to mention the possible warranty invalidation that may have taken place.

[Shootist]

You can make the tool fairly easily. All you need is a steel or brass/bronze rod of X diameter and then grind/mill part of it off to form a slightly off center pin of X diameter. Sorry but the X diameters I don't know. I did measure both the half round slot and the hole when I had the top off one of my M8's but I can find the paper I wrote them down on.

[gwelland]

For all the folks afraid of removing the dot - it's dead easy. Just apply pressure and slowly rotate the dot. The glue is tacky and tries to rotate the dot back but it'll turn until it pops off.

No drilling, no cocktail sticks, etc etc. Don't use a finger nail because it's just a flat metal disk that looks like it would be easy to bend.

When mine was off I was tempted to paint it black.

Does the adjuster just move up & down or does it rotate? I've seen the tool and it looks like it's designed to turn vs up & down. I have suitable rods that can fit into the slots for simple up/down adjustment but a rotate might be trickier.

How much movement did you have to apply to the vertical adjuster? Tiny, really tiny movement etc etc?

The adjustment I need is pretty minor but annoying. The viewfinder is perfect if I look straight through it from a low angle but from a typical higher angle I get a slight double image which is enough to make it hard to make the image 'pop' into focus. I have another M8 which is perfect in this regard.

[Eoin]

The piece shaped like a U moves up and down while the piece with the round hole stays stationary. However the whole unit moves left to right also as you focus and seems to be spring loaded IIRC.

I honestly can't remember. The trick was to move the sled (U shape) down a fraction in my case. Needless to say I moved it up and down until I got perfect alignment.

[Shootist]

Originally Posted by Eoin

The piece shaped like a U moves up and down while the piece with the round hole stays stationary. However the whole unit moves left to right also as you focus and seems to be spring loaded IIRC.

I honestly can't remember. The trick was to move the sled (U shape) down a fraction in my case. Needless to say I moved it up and down until I got perfect alignment.

Yes Eoin is correct the U shaped piece moves up and down. The tools off center pin fits in the hole and as you rotate the tool it moves the U shaped bar up or down, depending on how you turn the tool.
Whats best is for the tool to have a T handle so you can have some leverage to be very precise in the movement.

[gwelland]

You can find the vertical alignment tool regularly on eBay here's an example: RF Alignment tool. Seller is in China but is 100% fine - shipped quickly and efficiently to me.

[marknorton]

I like the way the ad says the winder and camera are not included in the $0.99 bid... Looks good, aside from the slightly extortionate shipping cost.

[gwelland]

Tool is pretty nicely made with a super grippy machined handle. I didn't mind the postage because even with this included plus my relatively low ebay cost, it was a bargain compared to (a) finding one at exorbitant cost from Leica, or (b) wasting time making something or (c) screwing up the camera using the wrong tool.

[Shootist]

Originally Posted by marknorton

I like the way the ad says the winder and camera are not included in the $0.99 bid... Looks good, aside from the slightly extortionate shipping cost.

IIRC the real tool from Leica is many many many times the shipping cost.
It is coming from China. It would cost me $4-$8 to ship it inside the USA by UPS.

[marknorton]

I suppose I'm comparing it with the $140 I've just paid to have a Tektronix 'scope shipped from the US...

All the alignment tool does is to slide the lens assembly up and down; there's a U-shaped clamp and a tight friction fit on the vertical part with the hole.

Some sort of magnifier is essential to get it right, or else leave it with the dot hole taped over until you are sure it's correct.

[One other point is that I find it easier to deliberately upset the alignment first so you can see gross misalignment which you then correct, rather than trying to make a tiny adjustment to something which is already close].

[Shootist]

Originally Posted by marknorton

[One other point is that I find it easier to deliberately upset the alignment first so you can see gross misalignment which you then correct, rather than trying to make a tiny adjustment to something which is already close].

Yes I find that true also. All the M8's I've seen have some type of locking substance applied to the U shaped bar after whoever at Leica does the adjustment. Probably a lacquer. So trying to do a fine adjustment with this locking substance in place will end up with a RF that is way out.