An M7 newbie rambles (warning photos!)

[colonel]

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These are my thoughts on my new (old) M7. I occasionally pen thoughts on a new camera when I am inspired to do so, as some may have seen, and certainly the M7 is inspirational.

 

Note all photos below are from are from the M7 with either a Voigtlander 35mm f1.2 II or 50mm f1.5 and film is mostly Fuji Superia 400 with the Westminster view using Portra 400

 

Just a short recap, I am an amateur shooter who just loves the art. I have shot a few events but I don't like professional photography as it's not my career and the pressure to get the "money" shots detracts from the pleasure in my mind. I tend to carry a camera everywhere, including to work everyday and on my lunchtime walks (have to get out of the office for some air!!)

 

View of Westminster from the Isle of Dogs, London, England

 

 

Way back when I used to shoot Minolta SLRs. I didn't do as much photography as I do today and I was certainly more ignorant of techniques, let alone the right Aperture and Shutter speed. I jumped on digital pretty early starting with the Sony Mavica (the 3.5" diskette user for those that remember what those were!) and went through a series of the digital greats.

 

In the last few years I have been attracted by the aesthetics of film, both the process and the colour quality, but never really got on with any film camera. The M7 seems to have changed that.

 

Fishing, North Haifa Beach, Israel

 

 

I tried a number of different cameras. Including SLRs such as the Leica R5, Canon AE1, Nikon FM10 and Canon 1n and 3. Interestingly I found the Canon EOS 3 the most consistent and good to use, it's early AF is pretty good.

 

I really didn't get on with split image focus though. I found it difficult to see and imprecise. The Leica RF focus continues to be the most precise and most "in control" fastest focusing I have yet found. As I said in another thread it's either RF MF or AF for me. Magnified focus, focus peaking and split image are all train crashes for me, unless it's a tripod shot where you have 5 mins ....

 

Kids in Greggs coffee bar, Ahuza, Haifa, Israel

 

 

At the risk of offending mechanical shutter lovers I personally, just my taste, never gelled with the M6. I first bought an M6 classic. The main thing I didn't like was the small size, recessed position and stiffness of the shutter speed dial. It basically hurt my finger after a bit and resulted in many missed photos. It seems to me that this camera lends itself to the style where you set the speed first and then fiddle around with aperture to obtain the right exposure setting. I shoot in the opposite way, I am very anal about aperture size but don't care about film speed as long as it meets my minimum for the shot. Next I tried the TTL. Much improved, however the absence of aperture priority made the flow speed limited. Perhaps I am not experienced enough but after this camera I left film alone for a while, also being depressed that the MP seems to have gone back to the small speed dial.

 

The end of the farm, Deganya Bet, Israel

[colonel]

I have always loved the look and feel of the M7 but the price vs the amount of film I expected to shoot prevented me from reaching out for the M7.

 

Recently I went mad. I found a beautiful silver M7 in excellent condition with the new finder (but the old DX reader mechanism). The price was good so I just bought it. Then after testing a few films I stocked up with Superior, Portra and Tmax and headed out for one of my biannual two week holidays. A major risk as I regard my holidays as my most enjoyable shooting experience during the year. I think my wife though I was nuts .....

 

After that ramble these are my thoughts on the camera itself.

 

Firstly the handling is very close to the M9 and M240 which is a good thing as the M7 is definitely the culmination of one branch of Leica development. The VF is clear and precise and the camera is weighty, but not too much, and solid in the hand.

 

I like the shutter speed and sound better then the M240. It's quiet, fast and crisp. My main issue is occasionally forgetting to wind the film on I lost a few photos that way but think I have kicked the habit now!

 

Loading the film is very easy and I have never had a misload, despite some internet complaints about the M film loading system. As long as the film is pushed in correctly and the leader is sufficiently between the take-up fork it's plain sailing. Changing film with one hand and the flip out back is a challenge, still need second hand support when standing up.

The original DX reader works fine for the most part. On a few films the shutter speed flicked around and I just reverted to setting speed manually. As all my films were 400 so it was easy. The other effect of the original DX reader is often having to firmly pull the film out, rather then it just slip out. It's working well so I am not really motivated to have the optical reader installed at the moment.

 

For me, aperture priority is my main shooting mode and it makes the M7 a dream. IMHO and for my taste a whole different experience and a much more pleasant experience then it's mechanical brothers. I know that will be controversial here but I need to express what appeals to me. Note that I use the metering as a spot meter and often meter on parts of the scene to obtain the overall exposure objective. Having the camera do the work here is super fast.

 

Sun shades, North Haifa Beach, Haifa, Israel

 

 

I don't need to go into the advantage of the RF focus system here as everyone is familiar. Sufficient to say it's a complete joy to use.

 

It's interesting not being able to change the ISO. It's also quite liberating as it's another thing not to think about. I have shot to date exclusively ISO400 which seems to be the best compromise. I used an f1.5 50mm and an f1.2 35mm lenses to give enough latitude for exposure.

 

Interestingly, not sure whether this is imagined or not, but I find film more forgiving in a number of aspects, including shutter speed - more tolerant of shake, exposure - although less dynamic range then digital more tolerance of exact exposure. Dynamic range is certainly less then digital but interestingly I can seem to recover alot more then I expected in highlights, beating some digital sensors I have used. Shadow recovery seems poorer on film then what I am used to.

 

Flowers, at home North London

 

 

Colours are interesting as well. I found Portra had an over emphasis on greens and more of a crushed dynamic range. I am finding Superia better in both aspects. Obviously there are lots of variables, including film type, scanner used, etc. An infinite amount of tweak possibilities ?

 

North Jordan Valley, Kinneret, Israel

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[colonel]

Lastly on film I have been a bit disappointed with the B&W film I have tested, particularly in dynamic range. I actually preferred conversions from colour film. Perhaps this is a result of the processor I am using but wondered if this is common as B&W film is always touted as the be all of detail and DR, I simply haven't found this. Note that I have only used Tmax 400 and Delta 400.

 

Children Swimming, North Haifa Beach, Israel

 

In terms of image noise there is plenty and I guess this is a fact of life with film. It's quite endearing but worth noting for those dipping their feet in the water. I am sure that using a 25 or 64 ISO E6 film and with some very expensive professional process I could achieve some better results but the speed and cost is simply not practical for me. On the plus side the colours are very well balanced on Superia and very nice. I will try some Kodak 400 at some point ... The reason I delayed this is I found that poundland (UK bargain retailer) is selling agfaphoto vista 200 24 for £1 a film. Apparently this is Fuji C200 rebadged so obviously I bought a crate

 

Hill near Nazareth (HaSolelim), Israel

 

 

The whole film processing thing is very nail biting. I came back from holiday with a bag of unprocessed film. Although I did find some well rated labs in Israel they were all at least a two hour drive from me so decided to take it all home. I was very nervous coming through the airport. I mentioned to the security guy at the x-Ray machine that I had film and would the machine damage it ? I expected him to say "what's film" but instead he surprised me by asking the ASA. He said it would have no effect below 1000 so I crossed my fingers and let it disappear into the hole .....

 

In summary my experience of the M7 has been very beautiful, very reliable and very enjoyable.

 

Coffee before shopping, Qiriat Ata, Israel

 

 

From the super fast and soft but crisp shutter to the relaxing wind on. Also fun to see the passerby stop and double take at someone changing a film, and the guys with these extraordinary large black plastic lumps hanging from their necks, often with large white phalluses, looking confused at my little leather clad device.

 

The results, apart from the noise, are very good as well and also very atmospheric in completely unique way.

 

Highly Recommended !

Edited January 6, 2015 by colonel

[wattsy]

interestingly I can seem to recover alot more then I expected in highlights, beating some digital sensors I have used. Shadow recovery seems poorer on film then what I am used to.

 

Don't forget that with negative film, what is highlight in the print/scan is shadow on the neg and what is shadow in the print/scan is highlight on the neg.

 

For me, aperture priority is my main shooting mode and it makes the M7 a dream. IMHO and for my taste a whole different experience and a much more pleasant experience then it's mechanical brothers. I know that will be controversial here but I need to express what appeals to me.

 

Not controversial in my mind. Use what you like and what you work best with. The M7 was my main camera for a number of years before the M8 was launched and I became almost totally sidetracked by digital M cameras. The M7 is a great camera - IMO probably still the best Leica film camera qua photographic tool. I prefer manual exposure to aperture priority and I like the battery independence of a mechanical body but if I was to buy another film body (which I might if I swing more in that direction) I'd probably plump for an M7. Second hand, the M7 represents a lot of bang for the buck if you are looking to buy a film Leica of recent vintage.

 

Some beautiful light and colour in that penultimate photo (Hill near Nazareth) you have posted.

Edited January 6, 2015 by wattsy

[wattsy]

Lastly on film I have been a bit disappointed with the B&W film I have tested, particularly in dynamic range. I actually preferred conversions from colour film. Perhaps this is a result of the processor I am using but wondered if this is common as B&W film is always touted as the be all of detail and DR, I simply haven't found this. Note that I have only used Tmax 400 and Delta 400.

 

Children Swimming, North Haifa Beach, Israel

 

I think there are a number of factors at play here, not just related to your choice of developer, etc. It's possible that you are metering like you might with digital (worrying about the highlights when it's the shadows you should be exposing for) and you are ending up with thin negs. The photo you show looks like it was taken in quite strong, contrasty lighting. Ideally your choice of film, exposure and film development would have taken that into account. Digital black and white, with it's linear capture (and arguably inherent greyness), can be more forgiving (if you watch your highlights) and tends to have endless shadow detail that you can use to flatten the DR. I think you'll find film black and white equally rewarding as you experiment a bit more with different films and development regimes.

[andybarton]

A nice report, thanks.

 

If you want the ultimate b&w film experience, try Tri-X (rated at 320) and process it yourself in HC110-B for 6 1/2 minutes at 20C. There will be more dynamic range there than you know what to do with. "Expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights"

 

I use Tri-X, Delta 100 and Pan-F pretty much exclusively for b&w these days, but do have some Silvermax and Neopan 1600 in the freezer for some rainy days.

 

There is a huge choice of b&w films around and a huge choice of developer. You will need to spend six months experimenting until you find a combination that you like - then stick with it!

 

All. Good. Fun.

[colonel]

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I think there are a number of factors at play here, not just related to your choice of developer, etc. It's possible that you are metering like you might with digital (worrying about the highlights when it's the shadows you should be exposing for) and you are ending up with thin negs. Digital black and white, with it's linear capture can be more forgiving and tends to have endless shadow detail that you can use to flatten the DR. I think you'll find film black and white equally rewarding as you experiment a bit more with different films and development regimes.

 

A nice report, thanks.

If you want the ultimate b&w film experience, try Tri-X (rated at 320) and process it yourself in HC110-B for 6 1/2 minutes at 20C. There will be more dynamic range there than you know what to do with. "Expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights"

 

I use Tri-X, Delta 100 and Pan-F pretty much exclusively for b&w these days, but do have some Silvermax and Neopan 1600 in the freezer for some rainy days.

.

 

Thanks

I think you have both highlighted an immediate flaw, in that I am not processing B&W myself. I have thought about it but not sure I can get there at the moment. However it sounds like something I would like to do at some time.

 

Exposing for the shadows is an interesting thought. I guess the effect of this is loosing highlight detail but on the basis its not the main subject. I always meter to avoid clipping so I guess you are right I am metering for digital!

[A miller]

Hi Harold - Nice to see another film convert on the horizon.

 

The extent that you can extract from your negatives depends largely on your scanning workflow. So it is really important, IMO, to get a good scanner and take total control of the process yourself and not rely on any lab to do it for you. This will allow you to extract the most out of your shadows and highlights, which will achieve a level of a very sophisticated dodge and burn result.

 

TMAX will give you very sharp and clean results, but not necessarily dreamy or rich with tones.

 

For the dreamy look, I would suggest Ilford HP5.

 

For that contrasty yet tone-rich look, Tri-X is great. Tri-X can be used to produce so many different results. This is the reason that it is a favorite among so many.

 

I just scanned in a roll of Tri-X that I developed at 1250 but shot at closer to 800 and I was blown away at the balance between the contrast and tonality.

 

Good luck and have fun. My favorite thing about the M7 is its ability to fire a flash at very high speeds.

Edited January 6, 2015 by A miller

[sblitz]

if you expose for the shadows you will get much more DR than with digital.You will also find a lot of room to adjust in PP. I have an outside firm scan for me, creates 24mb TIFF files and there is plenty there to get myself lost in. IF, you really love the shot, the negative is always there for a darkroom print or to get a really high quality scan.

 

Welcome back. And I can add that when I look at my M9 shots vs my film from the same trip I immediately prefer the film. Maybe someday I swap my M9 for an M7 used and the latest D-Lux and call it a day.

[colonel]

Hi Harold - Nice to see another film convert on the horizon.

 

The extent that you can extract from your negatives depends largely on your scanning workflow. So it is really important, IMO, to get a good scanner and take total control of the process yourself and not rely on any lab to do it for you. This will allow you to extract the most out of your shadows and highlights, which will achieve a level of a very sophisticated dodge and burn result.

 

TMAX will give you very sharp and clean results, but not necessarily dreamy or rich with tones.

 

For the dreamy look, I would suggest Ilford HP5.

 

For that contrasty yet tone-rich look, Tri-X is great. Tri-X can be used to produce so many different results. This is the reason that it is a favorite among so many.

 

I just scanned in a roll of Tri-X that I developed at 1250 but shot at closer to 800 and I was blown away at the balance between the contrast and tonality.

 

Good luck and have fun. My favorite thing about the M7 is its ability to fire a flash at very high speeds.

 

thanks

what scanner would you recommend ?

[A miller]

A Nikon Coolscan. I have the 9000. It is "sababa"

[steve_hoffman]

Harold, I enjoyed your pics, thanks. The Voigtlander 35mm f1.2 II is a pretty neat little cheepie lens. I use it quite a lot with an M6 these days.

 

More shots of Israel, please!

[hlockwood]

thanks

what scanner would you recommend ?

 

Look into the Nikon 4000, 5000, 9000 models

 

HFL

[MarkP]

I enjoyed your review having just bought an M7 myself (http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m7-mp-film-m/345620-i-love-my-m7-5.html post #84). Fabulous camera and I'm very much enjoying moving back to also shooting film although for me it will not replace digital.

 

I agree with you about shooting aperture priority auto but I don't let the camera make the final decision. I just half depress the shutter to lock exposure once I've surveyed the scene and decided on the shutter speed I want - so much faster than rotating the shutter-speed dial.

 

For the moment I'm primarily shooting BW400CN (my favourite B&W for fine grain and tonality),, Ektar 100 and Portra 400 but not developing myself - I just don't have the time to take up film processing.

 

Yes the scanning workflow is also a steep learning curve but I'm getting the hang of it:

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/other/286747-i-like-film-open-thread-119.html post #2361

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/other/358239-eternal-grief-5-a.html #post2855058

[sblitz]

Check out the plustek 8200 ai I have it, great machine, plus you can buy new and the firm is very much still in business. While nikons may be better, they aren't made anymore and repair, service, etc can be problematic.

[MarkP]

I've a CoolScan 5000 which is working well, and I've just sorted out the software issues again.

[jmr237]

Great post! Thanks very much for sharing. Glad to hear of your positive experience with the M7.

[erl]

Look into the Nikon 4000, 5000, 9000 models

 

HFL

 

These are all excellent scanners. The 9000/8000 is overkill for 35mm (M7) because of it's cost, but fabulous for MF and 35mm combined.

The 5000 is 'top of the range' for what you need but be mindful that Nikon no longer supports their scanners. If/when they die, you will need a repairer who can access 'scrapyard' parts for your scanner to survive.

 

I have both the 5000 and 8000 and have had them since they were both released. So far I have been lucky with maintenance of them.

Edit: The main advantage of the 5000 over the 4000, I believe is speed of scanning. For that reason it is more expensive.

 

Then there is the issue of operating software. IMO, VueScan is far and away the best software for any scanner. It has a learning curve, just as does any bit of gear you have or want.

 

Enjoy the journey.

Edited January 7, 2015 by erl
Additional info

[MarkP]

 

Then there is the issue of operating software. IMO, VueScan is far and away the best software for any scanner. It has a learning curve, just as does any bit of gear you have or want.

 

Especially comparing the low cost of Vuescan compared with the exorbitant price of Silverfast

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[dfbldwn]

I like the shutter speed and sound better then the M240. It's quiet, fast and crisp. My main issue is occasionally forgetting to wind the film on I lost a few photos that way but think I have kicked the habit now!

 

The original DX reader works fine for the most part. On a few films the shutter speed flicked around and I just reverted to setting speed manually. As all my films were 400 so it was easy. The other effect of the original DX reader is often having to firmly pull the film out, rather then it just slip out. It's working well so I am not really motivated to have the optical reader installed at the moment.

 

Thank you for an excellent review.

 

Regarding the original DX reader, please consider putting tape over the two common-ground contacts of the DX code on the film cartridge. The little error light will still flash, but after time you come to consider it a reassurance that the electronics are still working. The rest of the light flashing riot the M7 can offer will be gone ... until you forget to tape up the film cartridge's two DX common-ground contacts before loading it.

 

The only other source of shutter speed flashing I know of is something I've come to do intentionally. The

display only displays shutter speeds at every half stop. For fun you can sometimes meter until

you've got a light value that makes the display change back and forth between two adjacent shutter speeds. Lock that exposure, recompose and shoot.

 

As far as unloading film cartridges easily, I've had trouble for 12 years. Recently, after reading about it, I tried the trick of not fully rewinding film into the cartridge, leaving some film trailer outside. With light pressure of a fingertip you can press down on the upper trailer film edge and the whole cartridge will easily leave the camera.

 

I encourage you to continue using your M7. Even Kodachrome 200 gave me more exposure latitude than any digital camera I've used. Tri-X, developed as Andy recommends (i.e. slightly overexposed and underdeveloped), when scanned, will let you get away with stops (I emphasize the plural) of under/over exposure.