Manoleica Posted March 22, 2015 Share #1 Posted March 22, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) M-P240 Safari:- Do you use Auto? Or do you set WB as you see fit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 22, 2015 Posted March 22, 2015 Hi Manoleica, Take a look here Let's talk WB!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Mornnb Posted March 22, 2015 Share #2 Posted March 22, 2015 M-P240 Safari:-Do you use Auto? Or do you set WB as you see fit? Auto. Shoot in raw and you can always change it later with no quality loss. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bybrett Posted March 22, 2015 Share #3 Posted March 22, 2015 Kelvin value in camera for visual consistency Adjust in LR if required for colour accuracy 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlaing Posted March 22, 2015 Share #4 Posted March 22, 2015 Auto and RAW. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted March 22, 2015 Share #5 Posted March 22, 2015 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo Posted March 22, 2015 Share #6 Posted March 22, 2015 +another 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanJW Posted March 22, 2015 Share #7 Posted March 22, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) The only time I go off of Auto is incandescent lighting, which I find is still off (and in every other camera I have ever used too by the way), so I will sometimes do a custom WB for that. I find the preset WB choices not very useful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Barnack Posted March 22, 2015 Share #8 Posted March 22, 2015 I am shooting with an M240 rather than an M-P; for mixed lighting, I will use the graycard setting and calibrate using the white side of this tool Lastolite EZYBalance Grey/White Card - 20" LL LR2050 B&H I used to shoot in auto WB and have come to regret it; for the files where I used auto, the fiddling to get the color balance to look right gets old; if you are processing 50-100 files, it is endless and time consuming. For single source lighting, I choose the WB setting that corresponds to the kind of light I'm shooting in. I always shoot in RAW and process in Lightroom; I really can't see much of a purpose to shooting in any mode other than RAW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 22, 2015 Share #9 Posted March 22, 2015 Between sunrise and sunset daylight, otherwise auto and indoors a greycard reading. I like a consistent starting point. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrbelmuda Posted March 22, 2015 Share #10 Posted March 22, 2015 With my M9 I used the 'Expodisk' exclusively, every change of location and light conditions, never relied on auto white balance, just too quick and easy on the M9 to set custom white balance rather than have incorrect colour. Always found the 'Expodisk' accurate compared to any other device, highly recommended, completely trustworthy. M240, hardly ever use it now, only in the most difficult conditions, otherwise just leave it on Auto WB. At all times, shoot raw. regards, JRB Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted March 22, 2015 Share #11 Posted March 22, 2015 Raw plus either Daylight or Tungsten. I used auto for years but read somewhere that using daylight as a start point with the M9 made life a bit easier. After testing I agreed and kept the habit for the M. Gordon p.s. I bought an expodisk. And I really should use it as I think it would yield superior results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted March 22, 2015 Share #12 Posted March 22, 2015 Whi Bal card. I set the different profiles up for different WB settings, sun, tungsten, flash etc. Camera is profiles with Adobe profile editor using the dual range2800K to 7000 or the top. Camera raw is set to open using the profile for that particular camera serial number. NO muss, no fuss. No trying to eyeball adjustments which are never exact. No trying to find a grey to white object to balance on. Use auto in dire circumstances. Auto is over influenced by dominant colors and is usually wrong. For severe issues, balance in PS using hi and low threshold for each of RGB and and appropriate droppers. This is guaranteed is if you are not off too far and like to work hard, really hard. You do get a perfect balance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill W Posted March 22, 2015 Share #13 Posted March 22, 2015 +another 1 And yet another one...! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua Lowe Posted March 23, 2015 Share #14 Posted March 23, 2015 Auto. I rarely go for total accuracy, anyway. I base any adjustments on memory or I purposefully push a certain direction in order to create a mood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted March 23, 2015 Share #15 Posted March 23, 2015 Auto+raw, works well enough. Thoug not neccesary, when I use studio flashes, I set it to daylight. Cheers, Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delcredere Posted March 23, 2015 Share #16 Posted March 23, 2015 I find using a white balance card with the in camera WB function significantly reduces post production time and helps a lot getting skin colours right when taking portraits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewDD Posted March 24, 2015 Share #17 Posted March 24, 2015 I never use auto - I'd rather a set was off and consistant, then I can fix one image and fix them all. At home mostly Kelvin. I use greycard if I'm uncertain and have time. Never shoot RAW. Life's too short. Unless what comes out of the camera is a disaster you can't tell the difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua Lowe Posted March 25, 2015 Share #18 Posted March 25, 2015 Never shoot RAW. Life's too short. Unless what comes out of the camera is a disaster you can't tell the difference. Maybe for you. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted March 25, 2015 Share #19 Posted March 25, 2015 Indeed... There is a world of difference between the best OOC jpeg and any raw file developed with a good raw converter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted March 25, 2015 Share #20 Posted March 25, 2015 Unless what comes out of the camera is a disaster you can't tell the difference. For me it's not just what comes out of the camera, but what comes out of the printer, and for that reason I always want as much data in the file as possible. Plus I want to be able to re-process the files if needed or desired years down the road. RAW/DNG for me. Oh, and daylight setting in daylight, and if indoors either fixed Kelvin or use of WB card or Passport. The goal is to get close, but tweak in PP as needed. Jeff 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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