M240 Sf 24D

[freitz]

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I hope everyone is enjoying their Holiday.

 

I was not sure where to post this.

 

My wife got me a Sf 24D as a gift. I'll be honest this was not my first choice however I like the compact size and need to use it for holiday shots in doors. I mostly need to use as a fill for indoors more so than main source of light. The SF58 is way more than I would ever use, and much larger than I would like.

 

Ill cut to the chase. I do not have the first sense on how to use this. When I shot Canon I used bounce flash. That is not an option with this Flash. I was so use to bouncing the flash I seem to have lost any idea on how to use a direct flash.

 

Testing the flash I found I was over exposing most of the time. I have lots of issues on anything below F/2, when looking for subject isolation. Main lens is 35mm FLE 1.4. Things improved when shooting F/2 and above. Another issue is I hate when images look like I used flash; I think most know what I am talking about when it looks like your grandfathers candid shots with a point an shoot.

 

I am looking for advice on how to improve my ability with this flash. Quick tips for tomorrow as well.

 

Thanks for the help.

[Red Dot]

I use two Cactus V6s with my M9, focus, and then hand hold the flash and bounce..

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[farnz]

If you want to bounce flash the SF 24D and don't have an off-camera cord then you could fashion a 90 degree reflector from aluminium foil and cardboard or plastic and attach it to the flash with sticky tape. It might look a little Heath Robinson/Rube Goldberg but it might do the trick for you for tomorrow at short notice.

 

Pete.

[freitz]

I might give that a try.

 

Any tips for using the flash as intended?

[farnz]

I have an M and a SF 24D but I've never used them together since I almost never use flash.

 

I'd recommend using it in manual mode, dialling in the shutter speed and aperture values you're using, checking with the LCD's histogram, and adjusting the power to prevent overexposure. I doubt that TTL (through the lens) mode would work effectively on the M.

 

Pete.

[Fgcm]

+1

 

Set the flash to M, reduce the power and set for a good exposure at 1,5 meters, f5,6

 

If you get closer, e.g. 1 meter, f is one stop higher

The opposite if you move back to a distance of 3 meters.

 

Shooting indoor you seldom get closer than 1 meter or more than 3-4 meters, so the f ranges from f 8 to f 4.

 

If you practice just a little, you see this trick works faster than any TTL

 

Next step is to gel the reflector to adjust flash color to ambient light.

 

Ciao

Franco

[wlaidlaw]

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Leicagoodies make a diffusor for the SF24D called the SFILL. I never use the 24D without it at closer ranges. Exposure control of Leica flashes on their digital cameras is not brilliant, as they use the GNC method, which is never as accurate as true TTL. A good diffusor helps, as it seems to make the exposure less critical. I use the SFILL on the 24D and a Sto-Fen Omni Bounce on my SF-58D. Mine was made for the Metz MZ58 but they now make two models specifically for the SF-58D a normal and the cheaper Gold model (OM-MZ80 and OM-MZ80GL). I don't know what the difference is and it does not explain on their website. The Sto-Fen works very well on the SF-58D and is very neat.

 

Wilson

[Paul J]

It's a good flash when used within it's boundaries of it's capability (which isn't much). Generally auto thyristor (A) mode is best but sometimes you need to adjust the exposure with the camera aperture. eg. Opening up a stop when the subject is further away. I use this flash a lot, generally at f8 on A mode where it works without a hitch. There is always a little fluctuation in exposure but perfectly OK.

 

TTL works OK (ish) at f5.6-11. But the pre flash is laborious and not something to use if you want a catch a moment. I don't bother with TTL, it's not giving you anything that a mode isn't already and I find a mode more accurate. Use Manual if you need constant reliable exposure.

[bocaburger]

The SF24D comes with 2 snap-on attachments to alter the flash spread for wide angle or telephoto use. A piece of tracing paper (in the US we call it onionskin) or a layer of tissue (the kind they use to gift-box clothes at the department store) cut to fit inside one of those attachments makes a good, unobtrusive diffuser in my experience. I've even used an opalescent disposible plastic drinking cup whose lip diameter is greater than the width of the flash...I just turned the cup upside down and set it over the top of the flash like a lamp shade.

[wlaidlaw]

The other major problem with the SF24D, if you are using it in GNC mode, taking pictures of people, is that the delay between the pre-flash and main flash seems to be similar to many folks' blink reflex time. The end result is you get pictures of people with their eyes shut. The delay must be different on the SF58D, as I have not had this problem with it. Obviously using it in A mode solves this problem.

 

Wilson

[freitz]

I have been playing with it all morning.

 

I have it set to TTL / F 2.0 / ISO 100 (pull 100) / -2EV on the flash.

Camera settings is f 2.0 / ISO 100 / 180 shutter... seems to be good fill as long as I am not closer than 1 - 1.5 meters.

 

The biggest issue I have is trying to create subject isolation at f 1.4 no matter how I configure the flash it is over exposed.

[jedi996sps]

I have been playing with it all morning.

 

I have it set to TTL / F 2.0 / ISO 100 (pull 100) / -2EV on the flash.

Camera settings is f 2.0 / ISO 100 / 180 shutter... seems to be good fill as long as I am not closer than 1 - 1.5 meters.

 

The biggest issue I have is trying to create subject isolation at f 1.4 no matter how I configure the flash it is over exposed.

 

You could try taping some plain white paper over the flash to 'reduce' light output, which means that you would need more light into the camera and hence larger aperture.

[freitz]

I will that a shot.

 

Only other concerns is that the colors look washed out. Almost like I will need to warm the photo up in post

[jedi996sps]

I will that a shot.

 

Only other concerns is that the colors look washed out. Almost like I will need to warm the photo up in post

 

Difficult to say without seeing an example. What is your WB setting?

[freitz]

I have it set to flash or auto WB.

 

unfortunately I am communicating via iPad mini while away for the holidays so nothing to load it up to at the moment.

 

Try to imagine what it looks like when you use a flash on a point and shoot and a iPhone. Looks similar color washing ish.

[wattsy]

Exposure control of Leica flashes on their digital cameras is not brilliant, as they use the GNC method

 

I know GNC is written on the flash but the digital cameras do not use this method for exposing in the TTL/GNC mode. It uses a pre-flash and judges the exposure based on that.

 

When I used this flash with a digital camera I did so in M mode (chimping at the start of an event to establish a decent exposure and then trusting my instincts to adjust the output) with a stofen diffuser for a Metz 54 wedged on top. The latter helped soften the light and also helped to reduce the flash output which, IMO, is the number one limitation with this flash. The minimum output isn't actually very low and can cause a problem if you are shooting at close range using high(ish) ISO). All that said, I quite like this flash and, strangely enough, I was thinking only today about buying one again.

[wlaidlaw]

Ian,

 

Is not pre-flash what Leica describes as the GNC method of flash control in their manuals?

 

The other downside of the SF24D is the increasing difficulty in getting the CR123A lithium batteries in more remote parts of the world. My batteries ran out in South Africa and I found I had not taken the spares with me, that I usually carry. I had to wait until I got back to Cape Town before I could get any. The AA's that the SF58D uses are available anywhere and I use long life/non-run down rechargeables in it anyway.

 

Wilson

[wattsy]

Wilson, my understanding of GNC (guide number control) is that the output is determined by the distance of subject to camera (taking into account, of course, the aperture and ISO). It is the method often used by P&S cameras to regulate the flash output and is usually quite accurate. An M camera has no way of communicating the subject to camera distance to the flash unit (nor indeed the aperture) so GNC wouldn't make any sense in this context.

[darylgo]

I use my Sf24 solely for testing focus accuracy of lenses, maybe two times a year.

It's only redeeming quality is size. If using flash I would opt for a small automatic flash, which I have not found yet. Leica Store LA says there is a firmware upgrade forthcoming for the Sf26 on the M, perhaps it will provide features the 24 lacks. Once upon a time an instructor at the Nikon School said an M3 bulb directed into the corner near the ceiling of an average room gives a nice diffuse flash effect, I never tried it and M3 bulbs are long gone but the concept would also work with a powerful strobe, using the 24 as a trigger.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[South Bird]

Nikon makes a flash extension cord that allows you to use the flash off camera for bounce flash. I find this effective to diffuse the effect of the flash and bounce to off the wall or ceiling. There are threads here that discuss this in detail. It is the Nikon SC 28. It is listed as stretching out to 9 feet but 6 is more like it. It is also an interesting exercise to hold the flash off camera and hold and focus the camera. I made a wrist strap and let the flash dangle until I am ready to shoot.

 

It is a pretty good little flash.