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Lux 50 Asph, Cron 90 AA and B+W polarizers?


MirekE

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The two lenses in question have cylindrical retraceable lens hoods and polarizers usually have knurled ring that might interfere. I would like to be able to pull the lens hood with filter attached and I was wondering if there are any owners of 50/1.4 Asph and 90/2 AA that could share their experience with polarizers on these lenses.

 

Thanks!

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I use a Tiffen circular polariser with my 35 1.4 FLE and 50 1.4 ASPH - the hood on the 50 is not remotely blocked, and on the 35 works great as long as I don't attempt to have additional filters on.

Can't speak for the 90 I'm afraid.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-46CP-46mm-Circular-Polarizer/dp/B00004ZC8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427692858&sr=8-1&keywords=tiffen+46mm+polarizer

 

Also of note - it's easy to tell which way the filter is polarising, because the Tiffen logo is at the top for highly polarised landscape shots (and I rotate it 90 degrees for portrait exposures).

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Also of note - it's easy to tell which way the filter is polarising, because the Tiffen logo is at the top for highly polarised landscape shots (and I rotate it 90 degrees for portrait exposures).

 

How does that work? The angle of polarisation changes depending on the angle between the object and the sun. Plus I'm certain that not all glass inserts have the logo in the same position. If you stand in a single spot and turn around the position of the filter would need to be moved as you rotate.

 

The easiest two ways are to mark a point of maximum polarisation on the filter and rotate that point on the filter to be pointing toward the Sun. That requires looking away from the subject and takes some time. The other to watch the exposure. It'll be a stop lower at the area of maximum polarisation. As you rotate the filter you'll see the exposure value change The second is the easiest on a rangefinder. With the M you also have live view as a third and most accurate option.

 

Gordon

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Also of note - it's easy to tell which way the filter is polarising, because the Tiffen logo is at the top for highly polarised landscape shots (and I rotate it 90 degrees for portrait exposures).

 

I'm flabbergasted by this comment.

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I have an alternative method for using PL filters on the rangefinders.

 

The Leica PL filter system is a bulky but elegant solution, live-view on the M240 isn't easy to use i the field and this doesn't help with the Leica cameras, and although a change in the light meter settings can be used it's fairly crude and not very sensitive. Gordon's suggestion isn't bad.

 

I etched lines to define matching maximum polarisation, in consistent lighting, on the outside of each of my PL filter rings, including an old 30.5mm B+W PL filter which I use as a viewing filter.

 

When shooting I hold the small PL filter up to my eye and rotate until the PL is to my liking. I see exactly what I will get. I then simply match the positions of the etched lines on the 30.5mm viewing filter and the lens filter. I'm sometimes out by a few degrees but generally it works exceptionally well.

 

It is irrelevant whether specific lighting situations vary because the position of the line on all the filters gives an identical degree of PL so I can maintain consistency between viewing and lens filters.

 

I considered matching the lens filters to the position of maximum PL on my sunglasses but decided that I would like a prize dork tilting my head from one side to another with the camera in my hands and then trying to match the angle on my lens filters - only joking ;).

Edited by MarkP
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The Heliopan polariser fits inside the hood of the cron 90 AA. However there is only about 0.5cm of hood protruding past the filter.

 

Likewise, the B+W Kaesemann polarizer fits inside the extended hood of the 50 ASPH but there is only 3mm or so of the hood protruding past the filter.

 

Also, of course, the filter cannot be turned while the hood is extended.

 

In any case, in my experience polarizing filters are best avoided when shooting into the light - the situation when a hood is most necessary. The filter has very little polarizing effect at such an angle, and is prone to generate ghost images and other unwanted effects.

 

When you really need a lenshood, you generally don't need a polarizer.

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I got the B+W alu tele lens hood which I mounted a polarizer onto for the 90AA. Not only is the lens hood and real lens hood but I could adjust/spin the hood for polarization while leaving the built-in hood collapsed.

 

This approach could also be used on the 50 assuming you can find a shorter hood while using the same technique.

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