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Permanent 6-bit coding in Australia


nickd

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Hi. Does anyone know who (if anyone) can do permanent 6-bit coding to a Leica lens mount, in Australia? I've been temporarily coding my Elmarit-M 90mm f2.8 using the Match Technical lens coder kit, but I'd prefer to permanently code the lens. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Nick

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Camera Clinic in Melbourne are the official Leica repair agents and they will code most Leica M lenses. I was quoted around $400 for a 35mm Lux. I haven't had a good run with Camera Clinic so my lens remains uncoded. As far as I am aware they're the only ones left, although one of the Leica dealers may have a contact.

 

Gordon

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Go to Ebay and get a 90mm Leica lens flange with 6bit coding indentations.

 

Look up the correct coding for the 90mm Elmarit and paint in the black and white code onto the lens flange with model makers enamel paint. Do the black code first and when its dry with a razor blade clean off all the excess so only the indentations are filled. Then do the same with the white code indentations. Take care doing it and it will look exactly like a Leica coded flange.

 

Note the orientation of the original flange on your 90mm Elmarit then using a good quality small instrument screwdriver loosen the lens flange screws put them where you wont loose them and remove the lens flange.

 

Put the new flange in the original CORRECT orientation so that the coding strip will be in the correct place to be read by the camera.

 

Replace the screws and tighten in a criss cross and thats it you're good to go.

 

It's really easy to do and your lens will be permanently coded and read by the camera as if it was an "official" Leica coded lens.

 

I did several of my non coded lens this way and three years on they work perfectly and focus spot on.

 

You can always put the original flange back on to reverse the process, there are no shims or anything under the flange - it's simply the flange screwed onto the lens base.

 

It's really easy and very cheap to do - far better than sharpie pens and all the other "Heath Robinson" ways of coding the lens.

 

Just make sure that the lens flange that you order has the correct screw positions to match your lens - there are I believe two different patterns and these are shown in the Ebay listings to enable you to get the correct one.

 

If you do a Forum Search I did some pictures and an article showing how to do this on a 90mm Elmarit.

 

Regards Paul Mac

 

Paul

 

Do Leica make lens flanges that you can do this with, or are they all third-party? If the latter, is there a particular brand that you would recommend, that does not compromise the camera-lens mounting? I'm reluctant to lessen the quality of a Leica lens by using a cheap mounting flange - any advice would be appreciated.

 

Nick

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Hi,

 

I couldn't agree more with every single point PaulMac makes in his posts.

 

I have done exactly the same, for exactly the same reasons and with exactly the same results.

 

I did my 90 Elmarit first because I was worried about precisely the same thing you are worried about.. would it compromise the performance of the lens...

 

I shouldn't have given it even a moments thought. The flange works perfectly and locks in place just like the original mount, the lens focusses perfectly (the reason I did the 90 first... to check) and the performance of the lens has not changed one bit. The only difference is, my camera recognises each lens, the exif files are correct and I don't have to worry about changing anything on the camera menu whenever I change lenses.

 

I keep my original flanges in the Leica leather case that the lenses are supplied in so, if in the future I want to move them on, I can give the new owner the full coded lens and the original flange.

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I have three lenses with the codable flanges from Ebay and they work perfectly, although I would expect that before this thread has run its course somebody will chip in with a litany of problems. But the Ebay flanges are cheap, they do the job, and as Paul has said they maintain the originality of the lens because you still have the original (unlike Leica who just chuck your old flange in the bin). The key to fitting them is to very gradually tighten the screws so you don't push it off-centre which you will know about if the focus gets notchy, so simply be even more careful. Stiff focus can happen to Leica lenses as well when the flange has moved, so it's not the quality of the Chinese flange at fault.

 

Steve

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I bought a flange off ebay to code my 50 chrome cron. While the coding was good, I could not get the flange seated where it did not cause stiff focusing on my lens. The problem was NOT the flange but my lens. I sent my lens to DAG and it was coded and serviced. It works perfect. The reason I know it was me lens and not the flange it that I mailed it to another forum member and he put it on his 50 with not issues. So they do work...!

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I would like to try these flanges- only problem is several of my older lenses do not have removable flanges- such as my chrome summilux 50. So far I have gotten by by always changing the lens setting manually (many times forgetting). I only have one coded lens.

 

I would love to have a basic set of my favorite lenses all coded- and have considered getting the older ones permanently coded- but wonder what that might do to their value? To me it is hard to say- as a buyer I would prefer the coding- collectors may not.

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This what you need for your 90mm Elmarit:

 

Detachable 6-bit Code Leica M Mount Lens Adapter 28-90 90mm M8 M9 Camera 6-hole | eBay

 

These are what I used and are from Roxsen which supply loads of adapters for lot's of cameras and the quality is good.

 

If you want to keep originality then go for Leica.

 

Some people and don't get me wrong on this, it's not a criticism, understandably are nervous about using any non original item with their expensive Leica camera. I am pedantic insomuch as I don't like second best or poor or impractical solutions to a straightforward engineering issue but in the case of self coding your lenses then I would say that this is a no brainer that really does look and work very well indeed!!

 

Paulmac and Livingston - have you used the Roxsen flanges on an M240? I bought three Jin Finance ebay flanges and they work well with the M9 but not at all on the M240.

 

I would really like to get some flanges for my 35/2 50/2 and 90/2.8 that would work on both the M9 and the M240 - thanks, Larry

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Hi,

 

The ones I bought were from Jin Finance (3pc 6 bit flange adapter 4 Leica lens 28 90mm 35mm 50mm | eBay) and they worked perfectly well with my 240M-P

 

I actually have a spare 50/2 that I won't use. (Since bought a 50 Lux!)

 

HTH

 

Bill

 

Could I ask you both what paint you used? I used Testors flat black and gloss white - I painted over twice to make certain the black was as non-reflective as I could get but still nothing read on the M240 :confused: Larry

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Could I ask you both what paint you used? I used Testors flat black and gloss white - I painted over twice to make certain the black was as non-reflective as I could get but still nothing read on the M240 :confused: Larry

 

I had the same difficulty in the beginning and switched the black to Rust Oleum flat black and it works flawlessly now.

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Could I ask you both what paint you used? I used Testors flat black and gloss white - I painted over twice to make certain the black was as non-reflective as I could get but still nothing read on the M240 :confused: Larry

 

It may be the gloss white that is confusing the coding sensor.

 

Steve

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At the risk of sounding repetitive, I fully concur with PaulMac... use matt black and, as swb first pointed out, MATT WHITE (I used Revel Enamel Paint, which is very, very similar to Humbrol and you will find one or other available in any model shop).

 

As far as instructions are concerned, again, PaulMacs post covers it. I suspect he used the same guide as me... Converting to a Coded M Lens Mount | La Vida Leica!

 

I think it would be worth your while to start the whole coding process over again with any lens that is not being read properly by your 240, using matt paint for both the black and the white. It'll only take an hour or so, start to finish.

Edited by Livingston
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Again... agreed:D

 

This is my Elmarit 90 which was coded using the Jin flange and my Summilux 50 which is a Leica coded lens.

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Exactly:)

 

The paint has hardened and dried out a little, so there is a slightly concave surface to the filled paint, but otherwise its hard to tell any difference at all. I could always go back over and level it a bit more, but it is completely unnecessary (although I may still do it, I'm a bit anal like that).

 

I think the important thing is to have the confidence to do it... because it REALLY is that easy, and to make sure you paint both black and white matt paint rather than just black as suggested in the instructions...

 

I painted the white in as I had some anyway and I wanted it to look neater and more like an original coded lens... so maybe by doing that, I inadvertently avoided any possible misreading.

 

I wouldn't consider sending a lens away to have it coded now I have done it a couple of times. Its not just that it is so much cheaper.. I suspect we all could pay if we absolutely had no choice... for me, it was just so much quicker and convenient.

 

And so, so easy;)

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  • 1 month later...
I used HUMBROL model Matt Black and Matt White model enamel.

 

Humbrol 14ml Enamel Paint for Plastic Kits Airfix Modelling | eBay

 

 

This paint is sold in the UK for model makers to paint model aircraft etc. The little pots of paint are about the size of an egg cup and are ideal for this purpose.

 

You must use MATT paint as gloss will confuse the code reader on the camera.

 

Get a good quality 00 artist paint brush and paint the black codes first. Let it completely dry then with a razor blade trim off ALL of the excess paint so only the indentations are filled with the paint. There has to be clear demarcation between the Black and White codes.

 

Then paint the white codes and allow to dry completely and again with the razor blade carefully remove any excess paint. You MUST have clear spacing between the codes.

 

Take care doing it and make it look EXACTLY as a Leica coded lens and you will have no bother.

 

You MUST put the coded part of the flange in the correct position on the lens so that it sits directly above the code reader on the camera.

 

Writing it down makes it sound a lot more complicated than it actually is - just take care, do a neat and professional job and your lens will work just fine!!

 

Regards Paul Mac

 

PS: paint the code flange off the camera and then attach it to the lens base tightening screws in a criss cross manner DON'T over tighten but equally don't be scared of making it secure. Just remember CRISS CROSS to equal the loading on the lens flange.

 

I just wanted to let you fellows know that I have finally received my Humbrol matt white and black paint. I have filled in the six bit slots, trimmed with a razor blade and viola -- my three 30 year old lenses work perfectly with both the M9 and the M240 --- thank you all for the advice and all the best, Larry

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