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Summilux 50mm asph focus ring


nicolaz

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Hello everyone,

 

I just received a second hand Summilux 50mm asph which cosmetically looks awesome (like new). The only thing that bothers me is the focus ring: if you move it on one side and the you move back on the other, there is a tiny movement in which there is no action, after that is actually really smooth (it's not even stiff as I was expecting). The other lenses I have/tried are really solid and this one feels "loose". Hope I properly explained myself.

 

Do you have the same behavior with your Lux?

 

Thank you!

 

nicolaz

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As others have commented this is not normal and can reduce the accuracy of the focus. It means that the same exact rotation position of the focus ring if you move from near to far or far to near is not always the same. You may only notice in critical situations but it does matter.

Customer Care at Wetzlar can definitely fix this for you. That lens mechanical design is very complex and they can almost rebuild the lens to get it perfect for you.

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Thank you guys .. I also notice some focus shift but I'm not really sure it depends on the play or maybe the lens has to be "calibrated". The Leica lab in New Jersey has 6 weeks of waiting list and during the summer it sounds ages.

 

Regarding the focus shift (I apologize for the silly question but I'm new to this kind of things) do I have to send the camera as well!? I have a sum 35mm and never notice shift (to be honest I shot f2 only in dark)

 

Thanks

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Thank you guys .. I also notice some focus shift but I'm not really sure it depends on the play or maybe the lens has to be "calibrated". The Leica lab in New Jersey has 6 weeks of waiting list and during the summer it sounds ages.

 

Regarding the focus shift (I apologize for the silly question but I'm new to this kind of things) do I have to send the camera as well!? I have a sum 35mm and never notice shift (to be honest I shot f2 only in dark)

 

Thanks

 

 

Camera and lenses get independently adjusted against a standard.

To send in the camera and lenses is a good idea to make sure they are within spec after adjustment.

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Can I ask you a question a bit off topic? I always wanted to buy Zeiss or Voigtlander lenses and I'm positive I'll do but I'm a bit concern about this kind of things. Is Leica able to clean/adjust non Leica lenses?

 

Leica is certainly able but unwilling. They won't do that.

However, there are third party, independent technicians that can do that.

Also Zeiss and Cosina/Voigtlander should service their gear.

BTW, in which country do you live?

 

Here are listed repair specialists.

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/176369-repair-specialists.html

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-news/leica-repair-specialists/

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USA Connecticut .. Sherry Krauter seems to be the closer but I guess I can send it via fedex or USPS anywhere in us.. I may not need them but it's good know I can rely on a real repair service in case I'll really need it.

 

Thanks you for the info

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USA Connecticut .. Sherry Krauter seems to be the closer but I guess I can send it via fedex or USPS anywhere in us.. I may not need them but it's good know I can rely on a real repair service in case I'll really need it.

 

Thanks you for the info

 

Sherry Krauter has an excellent reputation as does Don Goldberg (DAG) in Wisconsin.

They will also let you know whether they can do specific work or not.

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Thank you guys .. I also notice some focus shift but I'm not really sure it depends on the play or maybe the lens has to be "calibrated". The Leica lab in New Jersey has 6 weeks of waiting list and during the summer it sounds ages.

 

Regarding the focus shift (I apologize for the silly question but I'm new to this kind of things) do I have to send the camera as well!? I have a sum 35mm and never notice shift (to be honest I shot f2 only in dark)

 

Thanks

By focus shift you do mean that when your subject is in the sharpest plane at one aperture, that sharpest plane shifts when you change the aperture?

I have never noticed any shift in use with the Summilux-M 50 ASPH personally.

The DoF is very small at the larger apertures when you are close of course.

Any play in the focus ring can definitely affect the repeatability of the movement.

 

Both your camera and the lens do need to be adjusted correctly of course. The adjustments have to be to a specification but as with any mechanical device there has to be some tolerance within that specification. So depending on how close to perfectly in the centre of the tolerance range each item is adjusted, you could have a pairing that is both in the centre, one at each end, both at one end or any combination in theory. But I wouldn't stress too much on that theory. Cameras and lenses need to be adjusted within the specification and all should work together. Any small errors may only be noticeable in critical scenarios.

 

I can say that I had to send my M (Typ 240) and my Summilux-M 50 ASPH to Leica Camera for adjustment after I dropped them to a hard impact. The camera was repaired and adjusted first and only after that was the lens done. What came back I tested as carefully as I could and the accuracy of the combination was within a couple of mm's at 2 metres at f/1.4. That is much better than anyone I know can handhold a camera for reliably.

Edited by hoppyman
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By focus shift ... That is much better than anyone I know can handhold a camera for reliably.

 

 

I actually used the wrong term. I was talking about front/back focus. I took a better look at my shots and I have a feeling that the "play" affect the overall performances of the lens which looks less sharper than other sample I've tried. 1/500 should be more than enough however many shots look terrible at 100%. I shot handhold 1/15 with 35 Lux and Cron and they look perfect to my eyes.

 

I'll probably send just the lens and if it will come back "well calibrated" I'll be happy otherwise I'll send the camera and lens together. I'll give it a try and in the mean time I'll shot with the Cron 35 (or if I get crazy I'll buy a Voigtlander 50mm 1.5 asph!)

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  • 1 month later...

Just an update: the lens is finally back but it almost has the same issue. From 0.7 to 5 meters the focus ring is really precise however right after 5 meters it has the same issue (actually is little bit less noticeable however it is still annoying). Maybe the floating elements?

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Just an update: the lens is finally back but it almost has the same issue. From 0.7 to 5 meters the focus ring is really precise however right after 5 meters it has the same issue (actually is little bit less noticeable however it is still annoying). Maybe the floating elements?

 

A complaint with some samples of the 50 Summilux ASPH involves a 'sticky' focus action, which interferes with fine focus adjustments. It doesn't sound like this is your issue. However, I did explain in this thread that Leica NJ was unable to fix my issue, while DAG (Don Goldberg) fixed it….quickly and easily.

 

You might give Don a call to discuss.

 

Jeff

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Thank you Jeff I'll give it a try.

 

I also notice that the 50mm frame line is way too much off toward infinite (never had a feeling with the 35 mm). Do you suggest Leica NJ or DAG for this? Is this a common issue for M240 (never had issue with M8.2 and M9).

 

Thanks

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I also notice that the 50mm frame line is way too much off toward infinite...

 

:confused: I'm not clear about your concern.

 

The only difference in frame lines (besides their illumination) between the M8.2, M9 and the M(240) is that the M9 lines are optimized for 1m, while the other two are optimized for 2m. The effect of course applies to all frame lines, to varying degrees, not just the 50 lines. But that has nothing to do with the lens focus issue you raised.

 

If you have a camera concern, I don't think DAG will work on the new M, as he (and other independent repair specialists like Sherry Krauter) aren't typically set up to deal with digital Ms. But that's easy enough to clarify with a call…..he'll obviously need to know more specifics about your concern.

 

Jeff

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I meant to say: what I frame is not what I get. I learned that rangefinder is not accurate to short distance however never had issue with long distances. Now with the M240 and 50mm Lux I have to frame on the right on purpose. It seems to much to me.

 

Unless you have a rare problem, the frame line concept is the same for digital Ms. See FAQ #12 and #13, for instance.

 

The M(240) is not conceptually any different from the M8.2 in this regard, as I noted above regarding the fact that the frame lines are "optimized" for a distance of 2m. Nor is the frame line shift due to parallax compensation.

 

I can't tell if you mean something else. If you're near a dealer, you may want to compare cameras and lens.

 

Jeff

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