Edwin Ho Posted December 8, 2013 Share #1 Posted December 8, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, I bought a used D Lux 5 two days ago; still bearing a version 1.0 firmware. When shot with AWB, pictures tend to be reddish (skin tone in partifular). I need your advice and suggestion how I can fix this. It was quite apparent that my wife took notice immediately as compared with shots taken with the old Canon IXUS 860IS. I welcome any advice or suggestion how I can fix this. Does upgrading to firmware 2.0 help? Or perhaps changing film mode from Standard to something else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 8, 2013 Posted December 8, 2013 Hi Edwin Ho, Take a look here D Lux 5 Reddish Tinge. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
wda Posted December 8, 2013 Share #2 Posted December 8, 2013 Hi Edwin, this is unusual provided the camera isn't picking up any colour contamination from your shooting environment. If you are comfortable shooting Raw capture, try that of a shot which included a grey card, preferably one designed for accurate colour shooting. Failing that any object which includes spectrally neutral colour, like a chromium tap fitting or pure white paint. Then process the file in Lightroom, which is normally available with a D-Lux 5 purchase, and use the white balance sampler to correct the balance. It will even show you the RGB values which should be very nearly equal in value on a grey card. Having said that, it is odd that AWB doesn't give a good approximation of colour fidelity. Mine does. Perhaps a previous owner has fiddled with colour temperature settings; unlikely, but possible. Why not consult the dealer about the issue? If there is a fault, he should sort out a remedy for you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin Ho Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share #3 Posted December 8, 2013 Hi David, Thank you for the prompt response. You may be right, that the shots I took were picking up the reds and orange from T-shirts. Some other shots were picking up reflections from the piano timber, all under tungsten lighting. I shall give it another go the next few days, perhaps under different lighting situation. I own an M9 and may just test D Lux 5 with the M9 as a reference. I normally shoot in RAW and process it via Lightroom. Just thought the above was a bit strange. I was putting the D Lux 5 through a test on Auto mode with flash, AWB in Jpeg more for wife who may use the camera too. I don't think the previous owner had fiddled with the WB. I am considering adjusting the WB myself perhaps one or two steps towards "blue". Comments are welcome. Anyway thanks again David 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin Ho Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted December 8, 2013 Hi David, I have done further testsand happy to report: In Auto mode, built-in flash is not adequate to "kill" ambient tungsten light. Tried it on P mode and it works ok to "kill" ambient tungsten, hence no reddish tinge. I do own a small Olympus S20 auto flash, works fine with D Lux 5 in P mode, giving a bit more power that the built in flash. I typically shoot at ISO 400, f5.6 or f4 at 1/250 sec M mode with Olympus S20 auto flash (this is not a TTL flash). This works fine. Non-flash shots with AWB in tungsten light works fine. This is about the same as a customised WB shot with white/grey card. So the AWB seems ok. Conclusion - avoid using Auto mode with flash in tungsten light; use P mode instead. Others may have a different experience which worked fine for them. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wda Posted December 8, 2013 Share #5 Posted December 8, 2013 Hi Edwin, I am pleased that you have solved the problem. The camera is most dependable and capable, used sensibly and within its small sensor limitations. I always prefer to use ambient light indoors, to capture the atmosphere as it is. If colour casts are not to my liking, it is so easy to make a small adjustment to colour in LR. It is also good to have a simple fool-proof method you can fall back on if under pressure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin Ho Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share #6 Posted December 9, 2013 Hi David, I am like you shooting RAW almost all the time, partly because I have LR3 as I am also using an M9. Yes it is good to have sorted out the issue as there are times when flash are needed. Personally, I rather shoot without flash to "capture the mood". You are correct in suggesting in your earlier post that I picked up colours from the environment - my wife wearing a red blouse and I was shooting in Tungsten lighting in Auto mode with built in flash. However, changing to P mode,the shutter speed was faster, hence letting in less ambient light that added the reddish tinge. David, happy shooting. I will be off to Dubai on 14 Dec will test out this very fine compact. LIke all new gearsit takes a little while to get to know it and this forum is a great place to share our knowledge/experience. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin Ho Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted December 12, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have just discovered that the reddish tint can be corrected via MENU - SETUP - LCD display. Hope this will be helpful to those who may experience similar problem IMO the red was a little too strong and affecting skin tone. This information was not provided in the user manual but I chanced upon it while scrolling through the menu. I only have this camera for few days and trying to learn it features. It seems like that I may have to purchase Alexander White's "Photographer's Guide to the Lecia D Lux 5". Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalo Posted December 12, 2013 Share #8 Posted December 12, 2013 Hi Edwin, Here and in your other thread I read that you are using iso 400 and flash. If you are using flash as adjustable light source, I can only recommend to consider a lower iso setting. The one stop difference to iso 200 makes for a leap in image quality, in my view. Even 250 and 320 appear much less mushy to me than 400 and hold a wider dynamic range. As usual, YMMV... Best, Alexander P.S.: Enjoy your trip! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin Ho Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share #9 Posted December 13, 2013 Hi Edwin, Here and in your other thread I read that you are using iso 400 and flash. If you are using flash as adjustable light source, I can only recommend to consider a lower iso setting. The one stop difference to iso 200 makes for a leap in image quality, in my view. Even 250 and 320 appear much less mushy to me than 400 and hold a wider dynamic range. As usual, YMMV... Best, Alexander P.S.: Enjoy your trip! Thanks for your suggestion, I shall give it try. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted December 17, 2013 Share #10 Posted December 17, 2013 It is also worth varying the mode settings -- normal, dynamic, smooth, nature, etc. These make a big difference, especially with skin tones. M9 AWB also varies and is not always accurate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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