iiic query - shutter speeds

[Dont]

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I have had a few exposure hassles

 

Can the iii be set to intermediate shutter speeds ie with th edial between the marked speeds?

 

If at first you don't succeed .....

[earleygallery]

No, use the set speeds only. What kind of problems?

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[Dont]

Well, a lot of underexposure mainly but I was using a new lightmeter (ie brand new) so maybe not properly used to it (Gossen digipro F - still like my old Weston tho') and Rollei 100asa

 

Quite a few were strong light photos and there was evidence that parts of the picture were OK-ish - so probably a bit more practice needed but it was a pain!

 

I am determined to get used again (after ??? years) to a meterless camera....

[madNbad]

Get a gray card, meter from it and include it in the frame. Run a roll through using different speeds and f stops, then process normally. This will give you a good base and also identify if there are any shutter problems. Welcome to the forum and have fun with your IIIc.

[250swb]

 

Can the iii be set to intermediate shutter speeds ie with th edial between the marked speeds?

 

 

As long as the exposure speeds are consistent, so the accuracy is always the same, you should be looking at the other exposure variables before assuming the camera is at fault or taking desperate measures. Consistent reading from a grey card would help to create a datum point, then you can change the ISO of the film if your results are regularly over or under exposed, so set your meter to 80 ISO or 125 ISO maybe, and this is far easier than trying to use intermediate exposure speeds on the camera. And film speed can even change due to the type of developer used, so it may be worth asking the lab what they process in and Googling for other peoples experiences with that combination.

 

A good book on the basic's of film photography is a good starting point, just one good book, because like asking for advice on the internet you don't want too many confusing and diverging opinions as you learn.

 

Steve

[Shac]

You say you are using Rollei 100asa - - are you developing this yourself b/c development time/procedure is another variable

[Michael Geschlecht]

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Hello Dont,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

In most instances there is not much of a difference between a meterless camera along with a meter in your hand instead of a camera with a built in meter.

 

Just as there are times when a behind the lens meter is advantageous, as in maco photography. There are also times when a hand held separate meter might be preferable. Such as with incident readings when a camera is fixed on a tripod.

 

In most instances it makes no difference, in terms of the finished photo, 1 way or the other.

 

Also: If you are holding a lightmeter in your hand, in many instances, you effectively no longer have a "meterless camera".

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited April 4, 2014 by Michael Geschlecht

[Dan Ryan]

Well said Michael.

[friedeye]

Hello Dont -

 

Your intermediate shutter speed question has me thinking -- the only way to make it look like you're setting an intermediate speed is to set the shutter prior to winding. This is a no no when using a Barnak Leica and can actually damage your shutter. Only set your shutter speed AFTER WINDING. You'll find that it can only be set at the marked speeds.

 

If your exposures are still screwed up after doing this, it may mean you need to take the camera in for a CLA.

[Dont]

Hello Dont -

 

Your intermediate shutter speed question has me thinking -- the only way to make it look like you're setting an intermediate speed is to set the shutter prior to winding. This is a no no when using a Barnak Leica and can actually damage your shutter. Only set your shutter speed AFTER WINDING. You'll find that it can only be set at the marked speeds.

 

If your exposures are still screwed up after doing this, it may mean you need to take the camera in for a CLA.

 

Hi there and thanks (and to everyone).

 

I believer the camera is great - it has been CLA'd.

 

I now appreciate that intermediate settings on the iiic are not possible and that has eliminated one of the variables now!!

 

It is a huge enjoyment to be with a totally manual cameras again after some 40 years and having now looked at the scans on screen most of the issues are not as bad as I first thought (so there may even have been a printing issue?).

 

Well its off for some more practice in Paris next week + a visit to the HCB exhibition, so thanks again (all) for a very pleasing first experience on this forum!

 

Don

[giordano]

You can actually set the front (slow speed) dial on these cameras to some intermediate positions and get intermediate speeds, though it's seldom a useful thing to do.

[aldash]

If you have several film cameras, use a fresh roll of film, and take shots of the same object, switching the roll between the cameras, under exactly the same lighting. Make sure that you snap a few blanks between each set, to avoid double exposures due to inconsistent film loading between cameras.

 

As "Mickey Mouse" as it seems, it also gives you a chance to test the whole set of cameras. If one camera produces exposures that look different from the rest of the group, that's a tipoff. All serious photographers should own a good gray card, and also a color squares card. Also use real life objects as well.

 

The advantage of a single roll, is that variables (developing time, etc.) will affect all the sets the same way.

 

Alan