bill Posted August 20, 2009 Share #1 Posted August 20, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've been thinking about it for some time, but I have finally decided to give it a go. I'm talking about popping off a roll of Tri-X and souping it at home. I have never developed a film in my life, so I would like some guidance, please, as to: 1. What equipment do I need? I think I need: - a daylight changing bag (yes I know I can black out a room but I'm assuming that this is easier) - a film can opener - a light-tight tank - a reel to go in the tank - a clip to hang the roll up with - a set of tongs to dry it off 2. What chemicals do I need? - insert as applicable 3. What do I do? I appreciate that this may all seem noddy, but please be gentle with me. I have done some internet searches and can find most of the equipment either as part of a kit or separately, but I cannot find a "starter" kit for chemicals. All the ones I have found so far seem to be big containers and I know that some of them (all?) can oxidise so I would prefer small ones to start with. To be clear, the end result I am aiming for at this stage is developed negs that I can scan myself - I am not going to wet print... yet... Thoughts? Suggestions? Resources etc that you can point me at? Regards, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 20, 2009 Posted August 20, 2009 Hi bill, Take a look here Time to have a go. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
KCS Posted August 20, 2009 Share #2 Posted August 20, 2009 Hi Bill. I started developing my own b&w less than a year ago and found that it wasn't as difficult as I expected. I ruined the first 2 rolls (don't put the fixer in before you use the developer ) But I only had that disaster once. I'm sure there's a ton of knowledge among folks here who have been doing this longer than I have, but here's how I started--watched a youtube video, bought supplies, and then posted my newbie questions to apug.org: YouTube - Episode 20, how to develop black and white film http://www.apug.org/forums/home.php Good luck! K. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
guywalder Posted August 20, 2009 Share #3 Posted August 20, 2009 suggestions: 'waste' roll of film, to practice loading the reel. Practice in the light until you can do it with your eyes closed... 2nd clip to hold the end of the drying film down. Thermometer when you come to the 'real' film make a list of all you need to put into the changing bag. I dont open the film can, I use sissors to cut the film (which need to be in the changing bag). Nothing worse than getting half way through loading the reel to find the tank lid / sissors or whatever are not in the changing bag. Get enough measuring jugs and storage jugs etc to be able to mix everything before hand, then just concentrate on pouring and timing. If you tank is big enough for more than 1 reel, then fill it with empty reels to hold the film reel in place. Chemicals: Developer Stop bath Fixer you might want to add some wetting agent during final washing if your water is hard. The Silverprint website is good for learning about differences in chemicals. Basically get whatever stop and fix suits (pack size or whatever), and dont get hung up about the differences between developers, I use Rodinal which has been around for decades, it is a liquid which mixes easily and the concentrate keeps well. It also gives a quite hard grainy look which I happen to like... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewittehd Posted August 20, 2009 Share #4 Posted August 20, 2009 Hi Bill, You opened Pandorra's box here. There are so many possibilities and combinations, and I am convinced that each answer here will try to defend a certain combination of developer and fix. I suggest you take a look at following: How to Develop Black and White Film - wikiHow. For a starter I would try D76 or HC110 (both Kodak) as developer (but as I said, opinions will differ......). In any case, welcome to the fold. Jean I've been thinking about it for some time, but I have finally decided to give it a go. I'm talking about popping off a roll of Tri-X and souping it at home. I have never developed a film in my life, so I would like some guidance, please, as to: 1. What equipment do I need? I think I need: - a daylight changing bag (yes I know I can black out a room but I'm assuming that this is easier) - a film can opener - a light-tight tank - a reel to go in the tank - a clip to hang the roll up with - a set of tongs to dry it off 2. What chemicals do I need? - insert as applicable 3. What do I do? I appreciate that this may all seem noddy, but please be gentle with me. I have done some internet searches and can find most of the equipment either as part of a kit or separately, but I cannot find a "starter" kit for chemicals. All the ones I have found so far seem to be big containers and I know that some of them (all?) can oxidise so I would prefer small ones to start with. To be clear, the end result I am aiming for at this stage is developed negs that I can scan myself - I am not going to wet print... yet... Thoughts? Suggestions? Resources etc that you can point me at? Regards, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 20, 2009 Share #5 Posted August 20, 2009 (edited) Bill, congratulations, there's nothing like seeing a roll of negatives come out of the tank. There's a guide to developing b&w film here... http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf In addition to the equipment you mention you'll need a thermometer and measuring flasks when diluting the developer and fixer.. No need for something to open the canisters, you can do that with a bottle opener (inside the bag of course). You'll need something to weigh down the bottom of the film while it's drying - most drying clips come in pairs with one of them weighted to facilitate this. You'll find it much easier to load the film on a spiral once you've cut off the leader. Either use a film extracter to get the leader out of the cassette in daylight and then cut it, or use a pair of scissors in the changing bag. Chemistry, you'll need a developer, stop bath (some people don't bother and just use a water rinse) and fixer. You'll also need some wetting agent to use before hanging up the film to dry. Don't use tongs, just let the film dry. Stop bath, fixer and wetting agent aren't critical - just buy whatever you can find. The developer is more of a personal choice. It'll be easiest to use a liquid developer as there'll be no need to mix powders. You can find development/film times here... Digitaltruth Photo: The Massive Dev Chart I always used distilled/deionised water for the developer and final rinse. knowing the kind of water you have 'down south' I'd advise doing this to avoid drying stains on the negatives. You can buy the water from Halfords or similar. With the wetting agent, ignore what it says on the bottle. I found 5 drops or so adequate. Buy an eye dropper from Boots, that will make it easier to just use a few drops. A film will take about 2 hours to dry. I used to dry mine in the bathroom and to minimise dust would run the shower for a couple of minutes so that the room was humid - the idea being that the water vapour would remove any dust from the air. If I think of anything else I let you know. Edited August 20, 2009 by stunsworth Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topoxforddoc Posted August 20, 2009 Share #6 Posted August 20, 2009 I've been thinking about it for some time, but I have finally decided to give it a go. I'm talking about popping off a roll of Tri-X and souping it at home. I have never developed a film in my life, so I would like some guidance, please, as to: 1. What equipment do I need? I think I need: - a daylight changing bag (yes I know I can black out a room but I'm assuming that this is easier) YES - a film can opener - AN ORDINARY CAN OPENER WILL DO - a light-tight tank - YES - a reel to go in the tank - YES - a clip to hang the roll up with - BULLDOG OR 25mm FOLDOVER PAPER CLIPS WILL DO - a set of tongs to dry it off - NO, DON"T USE A FILM SQUEEGEE PLUS THERMOMETER, SCISSORS, WATCH WITH SECOND HAND 2. What chemicals do I need? - insert as applicable DEVELOPER - CHOOSE ANY FILM DEV THAT"S EASY TO GET - ILFOSOL, D76, HC110. PERSONALLY I USE XTOL - powder made up to 5 L with tap water - I keep mine in old plastic bottles (eg 5 x 1L used mineral water ones) in the dark - keeps for at least 6 months STOP - not strictly necessary - any brand will do FIXER - any brand will do PHOTOFLO - photo wetting agent - comes under lots of brands, again any will do 3. What do I do? I appreciate that this may all seem noddy, but please be gentle with me. I have done some internet searches and can find most of the equipment either as part of a kit or separately, but I cannot find a "starter" kit for chemicals. All the ones I have found so far seem to be big containers and I know that some of them (all?) can oxidise so I would prefer small ones to start with. To be clear, the end result I am aiming for at this stage is developed negs that I can scan myself - I am not going to wet print... yet... Thoughts? Suggestions? Resources etc that you can point me at? Regards, Bill Bill, Good luck and be brave! I've made some comments in your text. The most difficult bit is winding the film onto the spiral. Just practise on a waste bit of film - it's not difficult really. The rest is just easy-peasy! DEVELOP for X mins (for X read off chart - invert tank 2-3 times every 60 secs) and pour away STOP for a few seconds (and rebottle for re-use) FIX for about 4 mins (with 2-3 inversions every 30-60 secs) WASH - easiest way is to fill, invert and empty tank - repeat 15-20 times ADD couple of drops photoflo to final rinse HANG up to dry - I use the shower rail in our bathroom - if you're really picky, run the shower for a few moments (before hanging) to reduce airborne dust. SLEEVE WHEN DRY - I use Clearfile negative sheets available here Clearfile 14B Negative Pages 35mm Archival Plus Pack of 25 - Clearfile - Film Storage - Firstcall Photographic You can contact print/scan straight through these Best wishes, Charlie PS After doing it for the first time, you'll seriously wonder why you didn't do it earlier Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted August 20, 2009 Share #7 Posted August 20, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Bill I'm shocked! You never developed a film before? I did all my own D&P years ago but gave up due to loss of a suitable room to use as a darkroom. Last year I picked up some very cheap chemicals and gear from a Jessops which was closing down and decided to try B&W processing again, now I wonder why I ever stopped - well I didn't have a scanner then either! Advice above is plenty - the Ilford site is particularly useful for a beginner. However, don't use tongs to wipe your film, you may end up with scratches. A tip someone else here suggested works well, use a piece of kitchen paper folded into stip and doubled over like tongs - you need to wipe down quickly or it can stick but it works really well. Tanks and reels - the plastic Paterson type are easier to load than the stainless steel ones IMO but take longer to dry out between films. Good luck, let us know how you get on. The great thing with B&W is you really don't have to be too critical, much like with exposure its very forgiving. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocker Posted August 20, 2009 Share #8 Posted August 20, 2009 1. What equipment do I need? I think I need: - a daylight changing bag (yes I know I can black out a room but I'm assuming that this is easier) - a film can opener - Bottle opener will do if you can't get the real thing - a light-tight tankSuggest Patterson - a reel to go in the tankditto - a clip to hang the roll up withditto - a set of tongs to dry it offDon't use a squegee or tongs. Rinse with wetting agent and allow to dry in dust free environment 2. What chemicals do I need? - insert as applicable Developer - Ilford DD-X Stop bath - Ilfotec Fixer - Ilford Water - Privatised Utility 3. What do I do? There is a very good HOw-to on the Ilford (Harman) site ILFORD PHOTO - Developing Black & White Film Its easy and fun - get yourself a good CD to listen to while you are working and have a nice malt AFTERWARDS!! Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted August 20, 2009 Share #9 Posted August 20, 2009 ...am I the only one that uses a timer with an audio alert? My wrist watch just wasn't enough. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocker Posted August 20, 2009 Share #10 Posted August 20, 2009 If you have an iPhone the Massive Development Chart is available as an App with a timer, countdown and alarms facility. Well worth a few pounds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron Posted August 20, 2009 Share #11 Posted August 20, 2009 The main thing I would suggest is to leave the film leader out when rewinding. Then trim it off, round off the corners and get it started on the reel in daylight. It's a pain to do this blind! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted August 20, 2009 Share #12 Posted August 20, 2009 The main thing I would suggest is to leave the film leader out when rewinding. Then trim it off, round off the corners and get it started on the reel in daylight. It's a pain to do this blind! ...a lot less pain than a damaged shutter, methinks. I recommend full rewinds. All day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 20, 2009 Share #13 Posted August 20, 2009 The main thing I would suggest is to leave the film leader out when rewinding The alternative is to use a film retriever. These are cheap and work well. Trimming the leader in daylight can make loading the film easier as it's much easier to ensure that the cut is made between the film perforations. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted August 20, 2009 Share #14 Posted August 20, 2009 If you have an iPhone the Massive Development Chart is available as an App with a timer, countdown and alarms facility. Well worth a few pounds. ...iPhone? Ugh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocker Posted August 20, 2009 Share #15 Posted August 20, 2009 ...iPhone? Ugh! Strange comment for an adult. Hey ho. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw_ Posted August 20, 2009 Share #16 Posted August 20, 2009 Bill, I am glad you will be doing this! Developing film and wet printing are creative joys for which I am very thankful:) I recommend starting with one film and that you have done -- TriX, a superb choice! Then look at flickr for trix and developer combination 'looks' that appeal to you in terms lighting and tones and textures. But pick the developer carefully: because you will not get a feel for your set up until you work with one developer/film combination for at least 100 rolls. Just stick with whatever you picked for at least 100 rolls. I recommend rodinal or hc110 as fantastic one shot developers; but you need to see what is available and which is the best deal for you in your area. Another tip: don't go changing a lot developing variables at the same time; only vary one thing at a time. Paradoxically by being conservative like this in the darkroom, you will free your creativity with a better understanding of what is happening at each stage of the process. Ultimately you will want the developing process to be repeatable and predictable, serving the idea you have in your mind. My 2 pennies, Thomas Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron Posted August 20, 2009 Share #17 Posted August 20, 2009 Aesop, how would the shutter get damaged? I'm intrigued and mystified. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted August 21, 2009 Share #18 Posted August 21, 2009 I always rewind until I feel the film detach from the take up spool, give it another half turn and then stop, open the camera and take out the film. In 20 odd years of doing this with focal plane shutters I've never had any problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 21, 2009 Share #19 Posted August 21, 2009 Aesop, how would the shutter get damaged? It won't - certainly based on my experience. It's a myth, or dare I say a fable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted August 21, 2009 Share #20 Posted August 21, 2009 Yea the more times you can scrape your film through the light stop on the film can the better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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