I need a modern, simple solution

[roguewave]

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By late next week, I may be in position to re-start my love affair with processing my own film. After 31 years of mutually assured destruction serving as a deterrent, I now have a possible location outside the living quarters where the magic of film processing can once again be by my hand alone. I have purposely remained ignorant of any new developments as prophylactic. Ignorance is not bliss.

 

Please educate me! I'm dying to get wet again with 35 & 120 B&W films. I'm shooting with T Max 400 in both formats and Illford's HP5 in 35. I imagine I'll also fool around with Tri X 400 once again. I intend to be a naughty, naughty boy.

 

HELP!!

[jkphoto]

Ben ,,,, I have had great luck with a Jobo processor, though I would use a hand tank if doing one or two rolls at a time.

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[antistatic]

Go for it Ben.

 

I like Tmax Developer for TMax. I have also developed TriX in the same developer with good effect.

[rubenkok]

Hi Ben,

I use KODAK T-MAX

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j86/j86.pdf

 

Here is the Ilford Film Processing Chart

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006210204272065.pdf

You can use T-Max for your ilford too, great results

 

Hope this is some help

All the best,

Ruben

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[andym911]

Ben,

 

as you know I only use TriX and Neopan and am only using HC 110 for both, so I can't comment on TMAX/Ilford.

Try to find one developer that you can use blindly, it really heps in getting predictable results, don't chop and change.

 

Only one input would be is that where ever you dry your negs make sure it is as clean and away from draughts as possible....drying in a clean environment saves huge time later.

 

Finally I look forward to your "home cooking" and feel you are going to love it again...

 

Good luck and keep us posted

 

Andy

[earleygallery]

Ben,

 

Go for it! I tried processing my own B&W film a few months ago. I found some of my old stuff - tank, jugs etc., but had to buy a new changing bag and some chemicals of course. Jessops were selling off their stock for pennies so I bought a few packs of T Max, and Ilford fixer/stop bath.

 

I've used the T Max to process Kodak, Ilford, Agfa and Fuji films, all have come out fine so far.

 

There is plenty of info on the web for processing times for various films and a good starters guide on the Ilford films website.

 

I'll wait until I've used up the T Max and might then try one of the other recommended developers like ID11.

[topoxforddoc]

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Ben,

 

Good for you! Personally I've tried quite a few developers and now use XTOL 1:1. Buy it in a 5 litre pack (GBP6 in the UK), mix it up and store in 5 1L bottles. I've used collapsible used drinks bottles kept in the dark. ther's lot so discussion about whether to use tap or distilled water - that depends on how picky you are and waht your water supply is like. Mine in the UK is fine and so I just use plain tap water.

 

XTOL is very good with HP5 and I find I can push HP5 by up to 2 stops easily with this.

 

Best wishes,

 

Charlie

[salred]

Not modern, but simple:

 

If you've been away from processing for a while, as I periodically have been over the decades, either sacrifice a few rolls of film or buy some outdated/stale film stock at your local shop, and practice, practice, practice loading reels. Doing this a dozen times or so while watching the tube, staring into space, etc., will lesson the anxiety of loading that first roll that you actually will process.

 

As a very low volume processor myself I've found HC-110 to be especially long lived in its syrup form. Dilution B + Tri-X is a good starting point (IMHO ignore the current Kodak chart & start Tri-X (EI 400) at 68F/20C for 6 minutes with moderate agitation).

 

Good luck!

 

Steve A.

[erl]

The previous posts are an indication of thf the variety of advice that will descend on you. Chose one (anyone) film dev combo and STICK to it for awhile. RE processing: CONSISTENCY is the key operator here. Keep close control on whatever dilution, teperature, time etc you may use. It may not match anyone else, but stick to your recipe until you are happy with the many other variables in producing a good neg. After, and only after you get pretty comfortable with your film, dev, time, temp, dilution ratio, then experiment with a change of film or dev or whatever.

 

Waste a few rolls, individually, to see and assess what happens. If the result puzzles you, get back here with a story. Someone (everyone!) will advise you.

 

Go shoot and be a happy processor. It is soooo easy really. Much easier than cooking.

[mhulbert]

Tmax in TMax is of course pretty good, but I prefer Tri-X. I've had good results with D-76, but it is only available in powder form in the shops I frequent here, so I have been using Ilford DDX with Tri-X and it looks great. Particularly good if you are pushing the TriX, but fine for using it as rated too.