SteveinAlaska Posted June 23, 2008 Share #1 Â Posted June 23, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) After lurking/surfing this site for the past few months after purchasing my M3, I have a question about how to use a print dryer that was given to me. It is a Premier model 110 manufactored by Photo Materials Company, Elk Grove,Illinois USA. Surfing the 'net produced very limited results. Only one other site had a thread about the use of this product. I have had no luck in finding manufactors website also. I do see the same type of unit for sale with a couple of the photo suppliers that have magazine adverts and are on the internet. Could someone pass along their 1-2-3 how to do it knowledge or give me a lead on where to find/purchase a manual? A Thank You for any help. To finish out this story- I have completed a basic B&W film class this spring at University of Alaska and am enrolled in the advanced class for the summer. I am the only senior(at 59 yrs) in a room full of twentysomething students and the instructer has not reached 30 himself !! I have also have set up my home darkroom from equipment just having been given to me. I have come to enjoy reading thru this site, gleaning bits of info that is a help to my use of my M3, particularly enjoy the photo forum and that has given me a goal to strive for. Thanks to those involved with setting up and maintaining this site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 23, 2008 Posted June 23, 2008 Hi SteveinAlaska, Take a look here A print dryer question. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
rickp13 Posted June 23, 2008 Share #2 Â Posted June 23, 2008 i have an old print dryer (from the late 60s) in my attic, so this is a very basic generic tip. Â the dryer is basically 2 chrome (polished) metal sheets attached to a heating element. if i remember correctly, you put fresh rinsed prints, still wet, face down on the clean chrome sheets and squeeze the excess water out with a roller. then turn on the heater for ? minutes. when finished, the prints are dry and have a nice gloss. Â good luck! Â rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_d Posted June 23, 2008 Share #3 Â Posted June 23, 2008 Steve, Â I have the original instructions I can forward to you if you email me with your address. Â Regards, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
haris Posted June 24, 2008 Share #4 Â Posted June 24, 2008 When I make RC prints, i just hang them overnight. If make FB prints I put 2 prints back to bach, put few pegs across edges and hang overnight. Tension of prints to curl to oposite sides actually prevent FB prints to curl. If needed I put prints under something heavy, when dry, for few hours (one more night). Â I do have FB print dryer, but with this method I get not curled prints, and save energy (smaller electricall bill) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
haris Posted June 24, 2008 Share #5  Posted June 24, 2008 i have an old print dryer (from the late 60s) in my attic, so this is a very basic generic tip.  the dryer is basically 2 chrome (polished) metal sheets attached to a heating element. if i remember correctly, you put fresh rinsed prints, still wet, face down on the clean chrome sheets and squeeze the excess water out with a roller. then turn on the heater for ? minutes. when finished, the prints are dry and have a nice gloss.  good luck!  rick  You forgot canvas to press prints to metal side of dryer  Excess water needs to be sqeezed before print is placed on dryer, best on glass (let say window)...  My dryer usually needs 5 minutes or so to dry print, but as I said in previous post, I don't use it anymore. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsgrunt Posted June 24, 2008 Share #6 Â Posted June 24, 2008 Keep in mind that the canvas may have residual chemistry from improper washing by previous users. You could remove and wash it but I understand it can be tough to put back on. Â I used to use one of these dryers, with the kinda hammertone enamel/paint surface. Squeegeed prints would go base side down for drying. I preferred using blotter sheets even though it was a bit more work swapping out sheets and such and took longer to dry a number of prints. Prints came out nice and flat however. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveinAlaska Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share #7 Â Posted June 25, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I did remove the canvas sheet and put it in the laundry with the jeans. reinstalled it on the dryer still damp and turned the dryer on and it dried to size. Then had a talk with my camera repair guy and he advised me to use it only with fiber prints. Again, a thank you to all who have replied to my post. Must take leave now to complete the roll of film for yet another class assignment! The three rolls taken over the weekend were developed and contact sheets made and received a compliment from the instructor on composition,subject matter, quality.etc... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
haris Posted June 25, 2008 Share #8  Posted June 25, 2008 ...Then had a talk with my camera repair guy and he advised me to use it only with fiber prints...  It IS only for FB prints dryer. Do NOT dry RC prints with it. There are dryers for RC prints, but those are differnt type, different construction. And who needs dryer for RC anyhow  If you dry RC prints on this FB dryer, you can get print emulsion peeled off from paper, FB dryer has too high temperature for RC papers... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.