New M7

[Redted]

Hi
I am new to the forum and have just purchased a M7 with the .58 viewfinder. I got the .58 due to being advised as a spectacle wearer it would be better.
I have taken a few photos using Ilford HP5 400, Kodachrom 400 and Kodak BW400CN. I have had 2 bad experiences getting the Kodak developed at the local TESCO, both times the film came back completely blank. The others were done at Jessops and a local firm Harrisons.
The problem is compared to the majority of photos posted on the forum, mine look a little washed out or light. I am tending to used the auto mode on the M7 and have ordered a new Leica M 50mm F2.5 Summarit Black Lens 11644 to see if this helps. I currently have a very used summicron f=5cm.
Any advice would be very welcome.
Phew... long first post, sorry.

[gwelland]

I would check the ISO/compensation dial on the back of the camera to make sure initially that this isn't out of whack - may seem obvious but you'd be surprised ....

Next, check or replace the meter battery. Not sure if you got the camera new or used. If new, take it back to the dealer and try comparing the metering with another camera. In fact, I'd do that first with any other camera you have just to make sure that the M7's meter isn't playing up.

If you're now getting pictures but they seem over exposed, try shooting some very average scenes and see how they come out. If you're new to the M meter you need to be aware of the centre weighted/spot metering - make sure that you aren't biasing the AE by having overly bright/dark areas where you are metering.

I'm surprised that you've been getting blank films since even Tesco's should be able to process a C41 film and pull out an image unless it's' massively under/over exposed.

Hope these help - I'm sure that there will be plenty of helpful advice here.

[budrichard]

1. There is no Kodachrome 400, so I assume you are new to film photography.
2. Usually with a new M, blank rolls are due to not having the film threaded properly. Always take up the slack after loading with the rewind crank and then watch the rewind crank move as you wind film.
3. As to overexposure, I would advise shooting some slide film, then you see your actual exposure. If you shoot neg, color or B&W, you are at the mercy of the photofinisher, if you have no experience in judging how a good negative should look.
Good luck! BTW I use two M7's and they are great!-Dick

[Redted]

You are right Kodak Ultramax is what I used. Yes I am very new to film, I will try the suggestions and perhaps try shooting manual more and rely less on auto mode.

[batmobile]

auto mode should produce exposures plenty good enough for print film. My advice:

Stay well clear of crappy instant processing unless you know the lab to be consistent and very well run. I have seen prints that would make you think your camera is a box brownie from quickie labs. You will not learn much from the trash many high street labs, produce. Some produce gret prints one day, btu terrible ones another - depends on whether peron A or B is operating the machine.

Take/send film to a decent quality place. My advice is to mail it to a really good lab. You will pay the same as high street prices and it takes longer, but it will be MUCH MUCH better.

Hold the film leader so it does not pop into the casette and turn the central axis to tighten up the film inside. Now load it. when you wind on you will instantly see the rewind spool axle turn on an MP (is there something that rotates on the M7 too that shows the film is being pulled?). This will ensure you are exposing film not thin air. If you do not tighten the fiml casette the camer will use up internal slack on the casette and not rotate the axle, so you wont see the axle turn for about 4-6 frames so you lose that instant confirmation that everything is OK.

The mode you are using is not the issue here unless there is a fault. The exposure comp could be off tho.

[budrichard]

Originally Posted by Redted

You are right Kodak Ultramax is what I used. Yes I am very new to film, I will try the suggestions and perhaps try shooting manual more and rely less on auto mode.

The reason for purchasing the M7 is the AUTO mode which works very well. The M7 also has a feature that by partially depressing and holding the shutter button, you can hold the exposure measurement. I always looks for a part of the scene that approximated a 90% Gray Card or a good average of the scene and then hold that exposure while I frame and shoot.
But, as I suggested, shooting negative film of any type is not the way to learn exposure techniques. Using positive(slide) film will allow you to exactly view your exposure and learn from your photographing. Be aware that it is not always possible to photograph a scene and achieve correct exposure for every part of the scene. Read and study a good primer on exposure techniques and then go with a notebook and record each and every exposure for positive film until you feel comfortable with the ability to understand what you are doing and why it works or does not work. Individuals spent years learning proper exposure techniques and it appears that if you are coming from digital you will have to learn these techniques.-Dick

[christer]

Originally Posted by Redted

Hi
I am new to ............. and have ordered a new Leica M 50mm F2.5 Summarit Black Lens 11644 to see if this helps. .

I doubt it.

[JBA]

Before loading a roll of film, fold over about 1cm of the leader emulsion side in. Make sure this fold hooks onto a tine of the winding spool (which winds the film emulsion side out -- the opposite direction the wind lever turns). Since I learned this trick, I have never mis-loaded.

Also, when you close the camera, check to make sure you've tucked the hinged back into the bottom plate so it's not flapping open while you merrily wind on.

[budrichard]

Should be 18% gray card.-Dick

[rubenkok]

Originally Posted by JBA

Before loading a roll of film, fold over about 1cm of the leader emulsion side in. Make sure this fold hooks onto a tine of the winding spool (which winds the film emulsion side out -- the opposite direction the wind lever turns). Since I learned this trick, I have never mis-loaded.

Also, when you close the camera, check to make sure you've tucked the hinged back into the bottom plate so it's not flapping open while you merrily wind on.

Hi Ted,
Welcome to the forum.
Have a look at: YouTube - "How to load a Leica M6 or MP" by Tom A
It's the same with your M7
Hope this is some help.
All the best
Ruben

[dorman]

Is your M7 new or used?
The DX film speed reader was unreliable on earlier M7s, and if it misreads the film speed it defaults to 100 ASA. If this is the case your pictures will be overexposed by 2 stops on 400 ISO film.
If you get a small flashing red light at the bottom of the viewfinder this shows that there may be a problem.
Try setting the film speed manually.

Newer M7s apparantly have an optical DX reader which solves the problem, so if yours is new the above probably doesn't apply.

[Redted]

"If you get a small flashing red light at the bottom of the viewfinder this shows that there may be a problem.
Try setting the film speed manually."


I am indeed getting that small flashing dot, setting manually appears to remove this.

[dorman]

When you switch the camera on the ISO (as read by the camera) is displayed in the viewfinder for 2-3 secs.
Check it matches the actual ISO of the film you have loaded.