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#1 (permalink) |
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Benutzer
Join Date: 05/21/07
Posts: 34
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Hello there. Can anyone tell me what is the preferred speed film to use with the noctilux when shooting ( color or B& W ) bands in darkish bars ? I have only tried fuji 400 with mixed results with some pictures looking fine but others suffer from a red or pinkish tint.
Thanks again. Ken |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Erfahrener Benutzer
Join Date: 10/23/06
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 969
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Ken- I think XP2 is great for the nocti because of it's huge Iso latitude. You can rate it at 50 and use it in much brighter light when you still want very narrow DOF, and all the way to at least 800. Some of the band shots you saw with my nocti were rated 800 and further pushed 2 stops with underexposure for a virtual Iso 3200, and they still held up well. It's almost like shooting a digital camera with adjustable Iso! best...Peter
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Benutzer
Join Date: 03/07/03
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 30
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Quote:
What I've done with situations like that is to go the other direction. Use the fastest film I can find, shoot at generally (varies with results of tests) about half the rated ISO, and develop in Windisch pyrocatechin. Those shadows need all the help they can get, and the immense capacity of compensation obtainable with the developer mentioned can keep the highlights from burning out even when they are really blasted (you may have seen images of clear envelope light bulbs with the glowing filament clearly defined). My favorite film component with this combination was the old 2475 recording film shot at 800 ISO. Can't get that anymore, but it would be worth testing with Delta 3200. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Benutzer
Join Date: 03/07/03
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 30
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Quote:
The color also varies according to the voltage that the lights are receiving; dimmers will shift progressively red. Few bulbs found in situations like that are 3200ºK to begin with, and the farther they go in that direction, the more they differ from daylight requiring more correction, which eats up the speed. I can't remember the factor offhand, but converting daylight balanced film to tungsten, even to 3200, loses a lot of the advantage you might otherwise achieve by using a fast film. If you don't filter, your color layers in the negative or slide will be out of balance, and correcting in a print will result in a compromise, at best. This is one area where, if I have a digital option, I won't hesitate to use it because digital color corrects color shift without the kind of loss you inevitably have with film. It has been a long time since I've done this, but maybe someone can tell me if things have improved. I doubt that they have. I've always wished for a high speed tungsten film. Seems to me Kodak made a film that was moving that way a long time ago, but never was fast enough. |
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